A customer dropped off a set of Bora 35 front and rear wheels for me.
They wanted an inspection done.
Let me start with the front wheel.
When viewing the wheel from the right side,
the USB sticker on the hub body
is facing the opposite direction, but
the rear wheel is the same way,
so on this pair of wheels
they're consistent with each other.
Now, if only the rear hub was oriented correctly,
would I flip the front wheel's hub axle orientation? Well, with the earlier models that ditched the internal nipples for wider rims, I might have done that, but
these wheels have the braking zone with AC3 specs,
and the rim has clear left/right properties,
so I can't flip the front wheel's orientation.
The image above shows the wheel's right side.
On this pair of wheels:
・The WARNING sticker is on the left side of both
・The bearing adjustment nuts are on the left side of both
・The front wheel matches the rear rim's AC3 shape
・The USB text on the hub body appears reversed
when viewing from the wheel's right side on both
—any one of these settings will work, and
everything lines up.
The customer said something was rattling inside the rim
when they shook the wheel,
but it turned out to be just carbon debris,
which I removed.
The rear wheel was in much better shape,
but it also had some sand-grain-sized particles,
which I cleaned out as well.
When I initially centered it, the rim appeared
to be off to the left side,
but when I later put it on the truing stand
there was a huge lateral deflection,
so I probably just happened to measure at that phase angle.
By just correcting the lateral runout
to move the rim toward the right side,
the center came right out on its own.
As a countermeasure against the "new shaft catastrophic failure" issue,
they design it so that after a few years,
even if you apply a 5mm Allen key to both ends,
the left side loosens first.
The customer's letter also
mentioned the term "new shaft catastrophic failure."
The hub bearing preload is quite tight,
and I suspect someone deliberately over-tightened it
after the wheel left the factory.
I forgot to mention—the current owner isn't
the original owner of this wheel.
Next, the rear wheel.
The customer wanted a full hub overhaul on both wheels,
but disassembling would probably make things heavier,
and I didn't detect any real damage,
so I deliberately didn't take the hub apart.
However, the freewheel body pawl area
was turning sluggishly,
so I cleaned it and re-greased it.
The image above shows the pawl return spring,
which wasn't deformed, so I put it back as-is.
Surprisingly for a high-end Campagnolo wheel,
the rim is offset to the left side (anti-freewheel side).
↑about this much
The lateral runout was nearly nonexistent.
Now that I think back, the front wheel
had radial runout over about half a rotation.
Out of 18 holes, about 9 spokes worth on each side
had the rim deflecting outward.
I suspected both the front wheel's radial runout and this anti-freewheel offset
might've come from someone's truing attempt,
but the nipples showed no marks of ham-fisted work,
so this is probably the factory condition.
I could fix the rear wheel's anti-freewheel offset
by loosening the few spokes on the anti-freewheel side,
but I wanted to correct it by tightening,
so I tightened all 14 spokes on the freewheel side
and got the center dialed in.
They wanted an inspection done.
Let me start with the front wheel.
When viewing the wheel from the right side,
the USB sticker on the hub body
is facing the opposite direction, but
the rear wheel is the same way,
so on this pair of wheels
they're consistent with each other.
Now, if only the rear hub was oriented correctly,
would I flip the front wheel's hub axle orientation? Well, with the earlier models that ditched the internal nipples for wider rims, I might have done that, but
these wheels have the braking zone with AC3 specs,
and the rim has clear left/right properties,
so I can't flip the front wheel's orientation.
The image above shows the wheel's right side.
On this pair of wheels:
・The WARNING sticker is on the left side of both
・The bearing adjustment nuts are on the left side of both
・The front wheel matches the rear rim's AC3 shape
・The USB text on the hub body appears reversed
when viewing from the wheel's right side on both
—any one of these settings will work, and
everything lines up.
The customer said something was rattling inside the rim
when they shook the wheel,
but it turned out to be just carbon debris,
which I removed.
The rear wheel was in much better shape,
but it also had some sand-grain-sized particles,
which I cleaned out as well.
When I initially centered it, the rim appeared
to be off to the left side,
but when I later put it on the truing stand
there was a huge lateral deflection,
so I probably just happened to measure at that phase angle.
By just correcting the lateral runout
to move the rim toward the right side,
the center came right out on its own.
As a countermeasure against the "new shaft catastrophic failure" issue,
they design it so that after a few years,
even if you apply a 5mm Allen key to both ends,
the left side loosens first.
The customer's letter also
mentioned the term "new shaft catastrophic failure."
The hub bearing preload is quite tight,
and I suspect someone deliberately over-tightened it
after the wheel left the factory.
I forgot to mention—the current owner isn't
the original owner of this wheel.
Next, the rear wheel.
The customer wanted a full hub overhaul on both wheels,
but disassembling would probably make things heavier,
and I didn't detect any real damage,
so I deliberately didn't take the hub apart.
However, the freewheel body pawl area
was turning sluggishly,
so I cleaned it and re-greased it.
The image above shows the pawl return spring,
which wasn't deformed, so I put it back as-is.
Surprisingly for a high-end Campagnolo wheel,
the rim is offset to the left side (anti-freewheel side).
↑about this much
The lateral runout was nearly nonexistent.
Now that I think back, the front wheel
had radial runout over about half a rotation.
Out of 18 holes, about 9 spokes worth on each side
had the rim deflecting outward.
I suspected both the front wheel's radial runout and this anti-freewheel offset
might've come from someone's truing attempt,
but the nipples showed no marks of ham-fisted work,
so this is probably the factory condition.
I could fix the rear wheel's anti-freewheel offset
by loosening the few spokes on the anti-freewheel side,
but I wanted to correct it by tightening,
so I tightened all 14 spokes on the freewheel side
and got the center dialed in.