I took in a pair of front and rear
Bora WTO33 rim brake wheels from a customer.
If you're going to keep riding rim brake bikes,
you don't necessarily need the CULT bearing ultra version, so
the Bora One 35 from yesterday's post or
this Bora WTO33 are definitely worth having.
Anyway, setting that aside,
the current owner bought this at an auction and
the hub end poked right through the cardboard box, so
as a point of concern, the customer noticed
damage on the left end of the front wheel
where there was a marker tape.
There was a scratch there.
A spare part for the left end came in stock, so I'll replace it.
I didn't just stock just the three shown in the image above—
↑Shamal Ultra front hub shaft
↑Bora front hub shaft
There was a period when the front left end parts
were hard to get in stock, so
I was extracting them from the right end of
front hub shafts (the same part) and using those,
but even those ran out, so
when the end part finally came in,
I used it to restore things to their original state.
When I went to replace the left end,
the right end loosened first.
The right end, which has threadlocker applied,
is a tricky problem that loosens first.
Handling this next step poorly
is what causes "new shaft explosion."
I applied a 14mm wrench (custom-made with width filed down
for the slit on the right side of the hub shaft),
gripped a 5mm Allen key on the right end
in phase with it as closely as possible,
and while holding them together,
turned the 5mm Allen key on the left end...
With a metallic crack sound,
the metal heat smell wafted through the air,
and the left end loosened.
I applied high-strength Loctite (lipstick type)
to the threads of the right end which I'd loosened again,
tightened it in, and for the left end,
applied grease to the threads,
tightened it by hand to the limit plus
a slight additional tighten with the Allen key,
and fixed it to the hub shaft
in a range where it won't loosen by hand
while keeping it as light as possible.
The front wheel had a lot of foreign debris in the rim.
The rear wheel appears to have been deliberately cleaned
by the factory wheel builder.
There are yellow needle-shaped adhesive residue
and blue round nylon debris, but
the blue stuff is nylon
embedded in the nipple as a looseness preventative.
The yellow stuff is difficult to recover
when it's longer than the valve hole diameter.
It breaks easily when touched, so it's somewhat easier
to guide it to the valve hole and push it with a thin rod to break it,
but recovering it without breaking it like in the image above
is difficult (personal satisfaction).
The temporary center was spot-on.
There was some lateral runout,
but since no center shift occurred
(I rotate the nipples to prevent this from happening)
the post-work image would be basically the same as above,
so I didn't take another one.
Next, the rear wheel.
The temporary center was spot-on at the phase I happened to set.
It had more lateral runout than the front wheel,
and when I took out all the runout,
the rim shifted about one paper thickness toward the freewheel side,
so I did center adjustment by tightening the anti-freewheel side.
The Bora WTO rim brake model
has an AC3 spec brake zone.
When I aligned the front and rear wheels viewed from the right side,
the USB stickers on the hub body
also happened to align.
Bora WTO33 rim brake wheels from a customer.
If you're going to keep riding rim brake bikes,
you don't necessarily need the CULT bearing ultra version, so
the Bora One 35 from yesterday's post or
this Bora WTO33 are definitely worth having.
Anyway, setting that aside,
the current owner bought this at an auction and
the hub end poked right through the cardboard box, so
as a point of concern, the customer noticed
damage on the left end of the front wheel
where there was a marker tape.
There was a scratch there.
A spare part for the left end came in stock, so I'll replace it.
I didn't just stock just the three shown in the image above—
↑Shamal Ultra front hub shaft
↑Bora front hub shaft
There was a period when the front left end parts
were hard to get in stock, so
I was extracting them from the right end of
front hub shafts (the same part) and using those,
but even those ran out, so
when the end part finally came in,
I used it to restore things to their original state.
When I went to replace the left end,
the right end loosened first.
The right end, which has threadlocker applied,
is a tricky problem that loosens first.
Handling this next step poorly
is what causes "new shaft explosion."
I applied a 14mm wrench (custom-made with width filed down
for the slit on the right side of the hub shaft),
gripped a 5mm Allen key on the right end
in phase with it as closely as possible,
and while holding them together,
turned the 5mm Allen key on the left end...
With a metallic crack sound,
the metal heat smell wafted through the air,
and the left end loosened.
I applied high-strength Loctite (lipstick type)
to the threads of the right end which I'd loosened again,
tightened it in, and for the left end,
applied grease to the threads,
tightened it by hand to the limit plus
a slight additional tighten with the Allen key,
and fixed it to the hub shaft
in a range where it won't loosen by hand
while keeping it as light as possible.
The front wheel had a lot of foreign debris in the rim.
The rear wheel appears to have been deliberately cleaned
by the factory wheel builder.
There are yellow needle-shaped adhesive residue
and blue round nylon debris, but
the blue stuff is nylon
embedded in the nipple as a looseness preventative.
The yellow stuff is difficult to recover
when it's longer than the valve hole diameter.
It breaks easily when touched, so it's somewhat easier
to guide it to the valve hole and push it with a thin rod to break it,
but recovering it without breaking it like in the image above
is difficult (personal satisfaction).
The temporary center was spot-on.
There was some lateral runout,
but since no center shift occurred
(I rotate the nipples to prevent this from happening)
the post-work image would be basically the same as above,
so I didn't take another one.
Next, the rear wheel.
The temporary center was spot-on at the phase I happened to set.
It had more lateral runout than the front wheel,
and when I took out all the runout,
the rim shifted about one paper thickness toward the freewheel side,
so I did center adjustment by tightening the anti-freewheel side.
The Bora WTO rim brake model
has an AC3 spec brake zone.
When I aligned the front and rear wheels viewed from the right side,
the USB stickers on the hub body
also happened to align.