The other day I wrote about buying a Profile handlebar with a narrower width (there are some), the Kanta Race C-C 330mm,
and at that time I mentioned that about 47mm of actual measurement on the handlebar clamp section could barely fit
REC-MOUNTS®'sType-19 and similar
dual-side braze-ons.
The image above shows the base of the current Type-19 model.
The current version is the third generation, and
where the second generation had a 49mm width on the section that attaches to the braze-on,
the third generation is 45mm,
so for stems where 49mm is more convenient,
2mm spacers for left and right insertion are included.
The stem I'm using is a Deda Newton Pista,
while the current Deda track stem Zero 100 Pista is 70 degrees,
this is a 67-degree stem with a more sloped neck.
The clamp section width of this stem is only 36mm, quite narrow,
so there was absolutely no way to attach it to the braze-ons fixed on either side of the stem,
so I ground down the base to a slight curve without going fully flush,
and installed it, but...
even so the braze-ons tend to spread,
so in the end I ground the base width down flush.
Even then the braze-ons are still slightly spread apart.
With the stem and left and right braze-ons, the handlebar clamp width is now completely filled,
so if the Kanta Race clamp section width is always the same regardless of handlebar width,
then mounting with a narrow clamp stem plus thin dual-side braze-ons is the max,
and for most stems the stem itself would be at the limit,
and some stems might not be usable at all.
My Niner frame's headtube length doesn't appear visually very long,
but the fork shoulder measurement is (allowing up to 50C tires)
extremely long, so the handlebar position isn't that low.
So as a sloped-neck stem,
I have several track and 29er stems prepared,
but there are some 29er stems with extremely wide clamp widths,
and actually mounting becomes impossible.
So you might say why not just use the type that fixes the base to the stem's handlebar-fixing bolts,
but regardless of weight, I don't really want to use
the type of base that fixes to the stem bolts.
In the images above, only a SRAM wireless switch is attached to the right drop,
and naturally since I can't mount sub-levers,
I've mounted bullhorn-bar style opposite levers
at the handlebar ends.
These are the ones Profile used to make,
with the model name QSC (Quick Stop Carbon acronym).
The aluminum lever version from the same era was the second-generation Quick Stop, so it was model QS2.
To avoid levers sticking out below or outside the handlebar which would be dangerous,
I've positioned them on the inside,
but at this angle on the image they slightly contact the hand when holding the drops,
so currently I've angled them slightly upward from horizontal.
Profile used to make brake levers
that attached to the tip of bullhorn levers,
like this one:
I used to put this on a street track bike
and build bikes with a no-brake fixie appearance.
Even as a temporary mount, installing
this brake lever on a Kanta Race
is probably something only I've done in the world.
On a bullhorn bar,
you'd typically mount the Profile logo in the normal direction (the way it's shown in the image),
but with this on drop bars,
the cone-shaped lever section pulls upward.
With drop bars it's much more effective to mount it upside down
and apply the brake by pushing down from above,
which is what I did back then.
I didn't use this one because the brake outer is external,
and making it internal would require drilling holes in the handlebar,
plus it's slightly heavy (especially at the handlebar tip),
and the lever stroke is short—practically decoration since the rear brake hardly moves,
and even with the rear wheel lifted and spinning under no load
it didn't function satisfactorily as a brake.
With the QSC opposite lever, the outer is internally routed,
so I can route it inside the handlebar and bring it out from the side of the stem.
↑like this
While I don't particularly credit aero effects on equipment other than the front wheel,
with this handlebar, when holding the drops what was previously 30 kph
feels like it's now around 31 kph.
That's quite a significant change.
The handlebar is abnormally stiff,
and the comfort when holding the tops
is significantly worse compared to the Profile DRV/A bar I used before.
The rear end of the top section is flat,
what you might call a cam-tail.
If the drops had been ever so slightly V-shaped,
I'd think holding the drops would be easier than straight bars,
but this handlebar's V-shape seems to exceed that.
Not uncomfortably so, though.
Due to the difficulty and stiffness of holding the tops,
I'm clearly spending more time on the drops.
Since there's no bracket on the right side,
I can't do standard standing climbs,
but standing climbs from the drops are bizarrely difficult,
so this width seems poorly suited for standing effort.
By the way, the bracket mounting section width is about 295mm C-C.
Riding with tight turning radius circles is
extremely difficult.
Noticing debris or holes in the road and
giving that slight swerve to avoid them is also difficult.
But as for whether I like it,
I do like it.
The otherworldly peaky steering feel is fun.
The tops have a forward-wing shape, but
when I grip the tops firmly and extend all fingers except my thumbs
to take a forward lean position,
my upper body enters a dogeza posture.
Further, releasing both feet from the pedals,
keeping my thighs at top-dead-center angle,
and bending my knees to tuck my shins against the back of my thighs
creates a complete one-meter-high-sliding Dogeza Missile.
and at that time I mentioned that about 47mm of actual measurement on the handlebar clamp section could barely fit
REC-MOUNTS®'sType-19 and similar
dual-side braze-ons.
The image above shows the base of the current Type-19 model.
The current version is the third generation, and
where the second generation had a 49mm width on the section that attaches to the braze-on,
the third generation is 45mm,
so for stems where 49mm is more convenient,
2mm spacers for left and right insertion are included.
The stem I'm using is a Deda Newton Pista,
while the current Deda track stem Zero 100 Pista is 70 degrees,
this is a 67-degree stem with a more sloped neck.
The clamp section width of this stem is only 36mm, quite narrow,
so there was absolutely no way to attach it to the braze-ons fixed on either side of the stem,
so I ground down the base to a slight curve without going fully flush,
and installed it, but...
even so the braze-ons tend to spread,
so in the end I ground the base width down flush.
Even then the braze-ons are still slightly spread apart.
With the stem and left and right braze-ons, the handlebar clamp width is now completely filled,
so if the Kanta Race clamp section width is always the same regardless of handlebar width,
then mounting with a narrow clamp stem plus thin dual-side braze-ons is the max,
and for most stems the stem itself would be at the limit,
and some stems might not be usable at all.
My Niner frame's headtube length doesn't appear visually very long,
but the fork shoulder measurement is (allowing up to 50C tires)
extremely long, so the handlebar position isn't that low.
So as a sloped-neck stem,
I have several track and 29er stems prepared,
but there are some 29er stems with extremely wide clamp widths,
and actually mounting becomes impossible.
So you might say why not just use the type that fixes the base to the stem's handlebar-fixing bolts,
but regardless of weight, I don't really want to use
the type of base that fixes to the stem bolts.
In the images above, only a SRAM wireless switch is attached to the right drop,
and naturally since I can't mount sub-levers,
I've mounted bullhorn-bar style opposite levers
at the handlebar ends.
These are the ones Profile used to make,
with the model name QSC (Quick Stop Carbon acronym).
The aluminum lever version from the same era was the second-generation Quick Stop, so it was model QS2.
To avoid levers sticking out below or outside the handlebar which would be dangerous,
I've positioned them on the inside,
but at this angle on the image they slightly contact the hand when holding the drops,
so currently I've angled them slightly upward from horizontal.
Profile used to make brake levers
that attached to the tip of bullhorn levers,
like this one:
I used to put this on a street track bike
and build bikes with a no-brake fixie appearance.
Even as a temporary mount, installing
this brake lever on a Kanta Race
is probably something only I've done in the world.
On a bullhorn bar,
you'd typically mount the Profile logo in the normal direction (the way it's shown in the image),
but with this on drop bars,
the cone-shaped lever section pulls upward.
With drop bars it's much more effective to mount it upside down
and apply the brake by pushing down from above,
which is what I did back then.
I didn't use this one because the brake outer is external,
and making it internal would require drilling holes in the handlebar,
plus it's slightly heavy (especially at the handlebar tip),
and the lever stroke is short—practically decoration since the rear brake hardly moves,
and even with the rear wheel lifted and spinning under no load
it didn't function satisfactorily as a brake.
With the QSC opposite lever, the outer is internally routed,
so I can route it inside the handlebar and bring it out from the side of the stem.
↑like this
While I don't particularly credit aero effects on equipment other than the front wheel,
with this handlebar, when holding the drops what was previously 30 kph
feels like it's now around 31 kph.
That's quite a significant change.
The handlebar is abnormally stiff,
and the comfort when holding the tops
is significantly worse compared to the Profile DRV/A bar I used before.
The rear end of the top section is flat,
what you might call a cam-tail.
If the drops had been ever so slightly V-shaped,
I'd think holding the drops would be easier than straight bars,
but this handlebar's V-shape seems to exceed that.
Not uncomfortably so, though.
Due to the difficulty and stiffness of holding the tops,
I'm clearly spending more time on the drops.
Since there's no bracket on the right side,
I can't do standard standing climbs,
but standing climbs from the drops are bizarrely difficult,
so this width seems poorly suited for standing effort.
By the way, the bracket mounting section width is about 295mm C-C.
Riding with tight turning radius circles is
extremely difficult.
Noticing debris or holes in the road and
giving that slight swerve to avoid them is also difficult.
But as for whether I like it,
I do like it.
The otherworldly peaky steering feel is fun.
The tops have a forward-wing shape, but
when I grip the tops firmly and extend all fingers except my thumbs
to take a forward lean position,
my upper body enters a dogeza posture.
Further, releasing both feet from the pedals,
keeping my thighs at top-dead-center angle,
and bending my knees to tuck my shins against the back of my thighs
creates a complete one-meter-high-sliding Dogeza Missile.