Another day, another wheel (and so on).
A customer brought in a Colima Aero rim for me to work with.
"Aero rim" isn't a generic term referring to the shape—
it's a rim from the "Aero" model line.
When it arrived, it wasn't just the rim by itself
but a rear wheel already built with a piascing hub (→here),
so I disassembled it at the shop.
The Shimano freebody version of the piascing hub
only goes up to 10-speed, and that generation can't be converted to 11-speed,
so the customer's first request was
to rebuild it with a different Shimano 11-speed hub.
The customer's second request was
to remove the stickers from the rim.
Since replacement stickers for this rim from that era
are already out of production, we can't restore it to its original appearance—
but the customer understood this.
The thing is, the adhesive on this rim's stickers
was incredibly strong, and it took me quite a bit of time
just to figure out how to remove them.
Beyond just establishing the removal method,
the actual work time spent peeling off the stickers
took several times longer than building the wheel itself.
Got it built.
660 hub, 24-hole, half-CX sprint 4-cross lacing pattern.
I'll do the truing later.
The Tni six60 hub, which I've taken to calling the "660 hub" myself—
the model name comes from the fact that the rear hub freebody has 6 pawls
and the ratchet ring has 60 teeth.
So this really is a 660 hub, but
this particular unit is a cosmetic defect—it has no Tni printing on the hub shell.
Since the matching front wheel uses an unmarked all-black Colima hub,
I deliberately chose this unmarked version so the front and rear hubs
would look more similar to each other.
Honestly, all Tni hubs could be unmarked and I'd be happy.
Looking at the wheel from the side,
the spoke coming out of the adjacent rim hole in the clockwise direction from the valve hole
is coming from the hub flange on the near side as I'm looking at it—
in other words, it's a reverse rim.
With factory-built wheels, it's typically equal-number lacing on both sides,
with radial lacing on the non-freewheel side,
so you don't really think about which hub flange holes the spokes go through.
But with left-right tangential lacing, the initial move in the temporary build—
whether you drop right or drop left—
gets mirrored when building a reverse rim, so you need to watch out for that.
A customer brought in a Colima Aero rim for me to work with.
"Aero rim" isn't a generic term referring to the shape—
it's a rim from the "Aero" model line.
When it arrived, it wasn't just the rim by itself
but a rear wheel already built with a piascing hub (→here),
so I disassembled it at the shop.
The Shimano freebody version of the piascing hub
only goes up to 10-speed, and that generation can't be converted to 11-speed,
so the customer's first request was
to rebuild it with a different Shimano 11-speed hub.
The customer's second request was
to remove the stickers from the rim.
Since replacement stickers for this rim from that era
are already out of production, we can't restore it to its original appearance—
but the customer understood this.
The thing is, the adhesive on this rim's stickers
was incredibly strong, and it took me quite a bit of time
just to figure out how to remove them.
Beyond just establishing the removal method,
the actual work time spent peeling off the stickers
took several times longer than building the wheel itself.
Got it built.
660 hub, 24-hole, half-CX sprint 4-cross lacing pattern.
I'll do the truing later.
The Tni six60 hub, which I've taken to calling the "660 hub" myself—
the model name comes from the fact that the rear hub freebody has 6 pawls
and the ratchet ring has 60 teeth.
So this really is a 660 hub, but
this particular unit is a cosmetic defect—it has no Tni printing on the hub shell.
Since the matching front wheel uses an unmarked all-black Colima hub,
I deliberately chose this unmarked version so the front and rear hubs
would look more similar to each other.
Looking at the wheel from the side,
the spoke coming out of the adjacent rim hole in the clockwise direction from the valve hole
is coming from the hub flange on the near side as I'm looking at it—
in other words, it's a reverse rim.
With factory-built wheels, it's typically equal-number lacing on both sides,
with radial lacing on the non-freewheel side,
so you don't really think about which hub flange holes the spokes go through.
But with left-right tangential lacing, the initial move in the temporary build—
whether you drop right or drop left—
gets mirrored when building a reverse rim, so you need to watch out for that.