I received the front and rear wheels from a Hyperon (high-end wheel brand) from a customer.
They were purchased at auction, and
the condition looked suspicious so the customer wanted an inspection.
Let me start with the rear wheel.
The previous owner used tape instead of rim cement,
so the outer surface is in excellent condition.
Overall there's very little sign of use,
so in that sense I'd say "the condition is good,"
but this freewheel body has abnormal resistance when coasting—
it makes an excessive cracking noise,
and when I hold the freewheel body and rotate the wheel by hand,
the wheel comes to a stop in less than one full rotation. No exaggeration.
The serrated face of the right axle nut is
inset from the hub axle end—that's wrong.
With a road dropout that isn't a straight drop, if it's a chromoly or titanium frame,
pushing down on the right crank causes the right side of the hub to shift forward,
which can shift the rear wheel mounting position
and make the tire's left sidewall rub against the left chainstay.
I removed the freewheel body.
The pawl return spring tension is abnormally strong.
The spring's end and its curved-up section are
protruding beyond the freewheel body's edge face.
I removed the spring.
The spring diameter is thicker than the original part,
and the end is bent inward toward the circle—whether intentionally or not, I can't say.
Since the current owner is switching to a Campagnolo freewheel body,
there's no need to restore this Shimano freewheel body
to proper condition.
The hub bearing had play, so I adjusted it.
The spacer installed between the right axle nut and freewheel body
has incorrect dimensions.
This is the FH-RE126—the right axle nut and spacer parts
that fit rear hubs from certain years onward
and pre-built wheel rear hubs.
We stock these regularly at the shop.
I sold some of these a few days ago for another job,
and we still have inventory after using them here.
↑Yeah, the dimensions are completely different after all
This is the new Campagnolo freewheel body
that the customer provided.
The pawl return spring has a thinner diameter than the previous one,
and naturally, it doesn't protrude
beyond the freewheel body.
I installed the freewheel body and right end parts.
As expected, the serrated peak face is
now on the outside of the hub axle end face.
I can't trust the centering gauge reading unless
both the parts dimensions are correct
and the bearing has zero play.
There was slight runout,
and the rim was shifted to the right.
I think most of the centering drift is from age-related wear.
I trued the wheel and centered it.
Next, the front wheel.
The hub bearing had no play, and while there was slight runout,
the provisional center was spot-on.
With the left and right hub end caps installed, you can't tell them apart,
but removing them just for a photo carries a risk of damage—
I do have spare parts in stock and could cover any cost,
but I decided to leave them on anyway.
The image above is from before the work,
and the result after work looks the same,
so I didn't bother taking another photo.
Just a random observation:
the inside of the front wheel's wheel bag was
pretty unremarkable, but
the rear wheel's had an oddly stylish pattern.
For more on the stylish wheel bag,
(→see here) as well.
They were purchased at auction, and
Let me start with the rear wheel.
The previous owner used tape instead of rim cement,
so the outer surface is in excellent condition.
Overall there's very little sign of use,
so in that sense I'd say "the condition is good,"
but this freewheel body has abnormal resistance when coasting—
it makes an excessive cracking noise,
and when I hold the freewheel body and rotate the wheel by hand,
the wheel comes to a stop in less than one full rotation. No exaggeration.
The serrated face of the right axle nut is
inset from the hub axle end—that's wrong.
With a road dropout that isn't a straight drop, if it's a chromoly or titanium frame,
pushing down on the right crank causes the right side of the hub to shift forward,
which can shift the rear wheel mounting position
and make the tire's left sidewall rub against the left chainstay.
I removed the freewheel body.
The pawl return spring tension is abnormally strong.
The spring's end and its curved-up section are
protruding beyond the freewheel body's edge face.
I removed the spring.
The spring diameter is thicker than the original part,
and the end is bent inward toward the circle—whether intentionally or not, I can't say.
Since the current owner is switching to a Campagnolo freewheel body,
there's no need to restore this Shimano freewheel body
to proper condition.
The hub bearing had play, so I adjusted it.
The spacer installed between the right axle nut and freewheel body
has incorrect dimensions.
This is the FH-RE126—the right axle nut and spacer parts
that fit rear hubs from certain years onward
and pre-built wheel rear hubs.
We stock these regularly at the shop.
I sold some of these a few days ago for another job,
and we still have inventory after using them here.
↑Yeah, the dimensions are completely different after all
This is the new Campagnolo freewheel body
that the customer provided.
The pawl return spring has a thinner diameter than the previous one,
and naturally, it doesn't protrude
beyond the freewheel body.
I installed the freewheel body and right end parts.
As expected, the serrated peak face is
now on the outside of the hub axle end face.
I can't trust the centering gauge reading unless
both the parts dimensions are correct
and the bearing has zero play.
There was slight runout,
and the rim was shifted to the right.
I think most of the centering drift is from age-related wear.
I trued the wheel and centered it.
Next, the front wheel.
The hub bearing had no play, and while there was slight runout,
the provisional center was spot-on.
With the left and right hub end caps installed, you can't tell them apart,
but removing them just for a photo carries a risk of damage—
I do have spare parts in stock and could cover any cost,
but I decided to leave them on anyway.
The image above is from before the work,
and the result after work looks the same,
so I didn't bother taking another photo.
Just a random observation:
the inside of the front wheel's wheel bag was
pretty unremarkable, but
the rear wheel's had an oddly stylish pattern.
For more on the stylish wheel bag,
(→see here) as well.