Another day, another wheel (and so on).
Continuing from yesterday.
Rebuilding the rear wheel on the Rapide CLX 60.
2:1 lacing pattern, 21 holes
Aero Lite spokes on both sides.
Like the front hub,
the flange holes don't match spokes that have the flattened sections
designed to prevent rotation.
The hub rotation was abnormal.
With it firmly secured in the truing stand,
I can rotate the rim in the freewheel direction,
but when I try to rotate it the opposite way,
the wheel and hub axle rotate as one unit
and the whole thing slides up and out of the truing stand.
This is because one of the cartridge bearings is completely seized.
Although the cause is different, when I put an internal hub on the truing stand,
it sometimes slips out and lifts away from the stand in one rotation direction,
which makes building wheels with internal hubs difficult.
There were traces on the freewheel body splines showing
someone had gotten the top cog phasing wrong
but still managed to thread on the lockring.
I reused the nipples from the front wheel, but
the rear wheel nipples had lots of cracks from
fine sand and white rust powder clogged in the tooth sockets,
so I switched to DT's black aluminum universal nipples.
In the image above, the one on the far right is fine,
the three in the middle have cracks,
and the one on the far left is so corroded it's completely split.
The condition of the nipples differs between front and rear,
so I asked the customer if they'd used the rear wheel
(which has the higher rim) with a different low-height rim wheel on the front
since the Rapide 60 CLX might have different usage history on each side.
But they said they've only ever used this pair together.
The hub body left bearing was completely shot.
The one with the blue seal in the upper left image
is the Ceramic Speed unit,
and the bearing with the orange seal on the right isn't related to this wheel.
I drew a marker line to test
the seal is snapped into the outer race groove,
so if you spin the bearing, the line shifts
like it does on the orange-sealed bearing in the image above.
But the Ceramic Speed one had its insides completely seized—
it wouldn't budge even with finger pressure.
I replaced it with a standard steel ball bearing of the same size.
Built.
On the non-drive side I'm using a CX-Sprint lacing
as a counter to the asymmetric 2:1 lacing pattern,
creating a reversed asymmetric pattern.
I'll do the truing later.
Looking at later Rovale models, the CLX 50
is commonly seen on disc brake wheels,
but it's a clincher rim with a center depression
that looks tubeless-compatible but isn't—
50mm depth / averaging around 435g.
This rim is 60mm deep,
and being a tubular, it came in at nearly the same weight as the CLX 50,
though there was some variance with two of them
floating around the 435g mark.
I won't be sharing specific weight figures though.
↑man, that's kind of a dick move
Sorry for the wait! Please check out this image!
It's the front rim!
It's the rear rim!
↑Okay stop that!
Continuing from yesterday.
Rebuilding the rear wheel on the Rapide CLX 60.
2:1 lacing pattern, 21 holes
Aero Lite spokes on both sides.
Like the front hub,
the flange holes don't match spokes that have the flattened sections
designed to prevent rotation.
The hub rotation was abnormal.
With it firmly secured in the truing stand,
I can rotate the rim in the freewheel direction,
but when I try to rotate it the opposite way,
the wheel and hub axle rotate as one unit
and the whole thing slides up and out of the truing stand.
This is because one of the cartridge bearings is completely seized.
Although the cause is different, when I put an internal hub on the truing stand,
it sometimes slips out and lifts away from the stand in one rotation direction,
which makes building wheels with internal hubs difficult.
There were traces on the freewheel body splines showing
someone had gotten the top cog phasing wrong
but still managed to thread on the lockring.
I reused the nipples from the front wheel, but
the rear wheel nipples had lots of cracks from
fine sand and white rust powder clogged in the tooth sockets,
so I switched to DT's black aluminum universal nipples.
In the image above, the one on the far right is fine,
the three in the middle have cracks,
and the one on the far left is so corroded it's completely split.
The condition of the nipples differs between front and rear,
so I asked the customer if they'd used the rear wheel
(which has the higher rim) with a different low-height rim wheel on the front
since the Rapide 60 CLX might have different usage history on each side.
But they said they've only ever used this pair together.
The hub body left bearing was completely shot.
The one with the blue seal in the upper left image
is the Ceramic Speed unit,
and the bearing with the orange seal on the right isn't related to this wheel.
I drew a marker line to test
the seal is snapped into the outer race groove,
so if you spin the bearing, the line shifts
like it does on the orange-sealed bearing in the image above.
But the Ceramic Speed one had its insides completely seized—
it wouldn't budge even with finger pressure.
I replaced it with a standard steel ball bearing of the same size.
Built.
On the non-drive side I'm using a CX-Sprint lacing
as a counter to the asymmetric 2:1 lacing pattern,
creating a reversed asymmetric pattern.
I'll do the truing later.
Looking at later Rovale models, the CLX 50
is commonly seen on disc brake wheels,
but it's a clincher rim with a center depression
that looks tubeless-compatible but isn't—
50mm depth / averaging around 435g.
This rim is 60mm deep,
and being a tubular, it came in at nearly the same weight as the CLX 50,
though there was some variance with two of them
floating around the 435g mark.
I won't be sharing specific weight figures though.
↑man, that's kind of a dick move
Sorry for the wait! Please check out this image!
It's the front rim!
It's the rear rim!
↑Okay stop that!