I took in the front and rear wheels from a CADEX 50 Ultra from a customer.
They're in for an inspection.
Starting with the rear wheel.
Earlier, I wrote about another wheel from the same customer where—for some reason—they were using a heavy, budget-grade Shimano center-lock rotor lockring with the external type, and the customer explained why to me.
Apparently, with certain bike frames, if you use the thicker aluminum Shimano external lockring, the clearance with the fork and frame becomes razor-thin.
I layered the aluminum lockring that comes with the higher-end rotor on top for comparison.
↑Yeah, the thickness difference is basically double.
before
after
The hub body was dirty, so I cleaned it.
The freehub engagement sounded like a roar, so I cleaned the ratchet ring and applied surface ratchet grease. The image above is pre-cleaning—you can see the teeth are worn down on the outer perimeter.
Temporary centering after hub reassembly. The rim was drifted to the right side.
I trued the wheel and centered it.
Next, the front wheel.
When I checked temporary center at a random phase, there was a tiny center offset. In the bottom image, the space behind is dark and hard to see, so
I took a closer shot. With carbon-spoke wheels that have dishing, I think the rim doesn't drift over time with use. But hypothetically, if these front and rear wheels had been metal spokes, the rear would've drifted in one direction with age, and the front would've drifted the opposite way.
Most likely, it just happened to be offset that much from the start.
There was just the right amount of lateral runout—the kind where if you correct it with weighted-side truing, the center corrects itself. So I trued out the lateral runout until the center was perfect.
Hub bearing play was normal on both wheels.
They're in for an inspection.
Starting with the rear wheel.
Earlier, I wrote about another wheel from the same customer where—for some reason—they were using a heavy, budget-grade Shimano center-lock rotor lockring with the external type, and the customer explained why to me.
Apparently, with certain bike frames, if you use the thicker aluminum Shimano external lockring, the clearance with the fork and frame becomes razor-thin.
I layered the aluminum lockring that comes with the higher-end rotor on top for comparison.
↑Yeah, the thickness difference is basically double.
before
after
The hub body was dirty, so I cleaned it.
The freehub engagement sounded like a roar, so I cleaned the ratchet ring and applied surface ratchet grease. The image above is pre-cleaning—you can see the teeth are worn down on the outer perimeter.
Temporary centering after hub reassembly. The rim was drifted to the right side.
I trued the wheel and centered it.
Next, the front wheel.
When I checked temporary center at a random phase, there was a tiny center offset. In the bottom image, the space behind is dark and hard to see, so
I took a closer shot. With carbon-spoke wheels that have dishing, I think the rim doesn't drift over time with use. But hypothetically, if these front and rear wheels had been metal spokes, the rear would've drifted in one direction with age, and the front would've drifted the opposite way.
Most likely, it just happened to be offset that much from the start.
There was just the right amount of lateral runout—the kind where if you correct it with weighted-side truing, the center corrects itself. So I trued out the lateral runout until the center was perfect.
Hub bearing play was normal on both wheels.