A customer brought in the front wheel of a Bora One 35 for service.
It's a bright label with WO (tubular) spec on a wide rim.
The customer said they got it from an online auction,
but when they attempted to grease it,
the hub axle and right end cup turned out to be separate pieces,
and the customer damaged the thread pitch of the hub axle
when the right end cup came off.
In other words, this is a "new axle required" situation.
On the hub axle side, about 3 threads from the end face were stripped,
and on the right hollow end bolt, the surface treatment of the threads was peeling,
leaving the thread crests flattened out.
The right end cup couldn't go in straight—
it would always go in slightly crooked,
and after turning about one thread, it would feel like it suddenly caught.
Though this is chronologically much later in the work,
when I threaded the right end cup (a left/right common part)
onto the left-side threads of the hub axle
pulled from the hub body, it went in smoothly with just finger pressure.
I've returned the original parts to the customer,
but the right end cup is still usable
and can serve as a spare for the left end cup in the future.
We had a replacement hub axle in stock.
The part number is HB-BO201, Hub Bora 201, so
it originally came out as a Bora part,
but there's also a separate hub axle that originally came out for Shamal Ultra.
The difference is that the Bora version has more distance
from the dust cap flange to the tapered section where the right bearing cone fits,
and the black aluminum spacer section extends further inward
compared to the Shamal Ultra version.
The right end cup loosened by hand.
I applied a high-strength threadlocker to the threads
and then tightened the right end cup down hard.
The red threadlocker that's visible at the top of the image
I wiped away afterward.
Going forward, instead of using "14mm wrench on the parallel section on the right side +
5mm Allen key on the right end,"
if someone tries opening it with "5mm Allen keys on both the left and right ends,"
the right end should come loose first only in the rarest of cases.
I've made a 14mm wrench that fits perfectly
the parallel section on the outside of the hub axle
specifically for adjusting this area, but in reality
even with it, there can be very slight tool marks.
There aren't any in the image above because
I held the hub axle in a vise using an axle cone wrench.
The original hub axle—if you apply a 14mm wrench while it's in the hollow state
without the right end cup and turn it, the threads will become severely stripped
(that's what requires a new axle),
but it can be held securely using the axle cone wrench.
The left end cup was very tightly tightened,
but it loosened with a sharp "click!" sound.
I was torn about whether to use the original right end cup here
(the threads on the left end are in better condition,
but the hex socket on the right end is better),
so I reused the left end cup as-is.
We do have new spare end cups in stock,
but I determined that replacement wasn't necessary.
↑This is the left side of the hub body,
and there was a lot of that yellowish custard-like grease
(yellow matter custard dripping from a dead dog's eye)
caked in unnecessary places, even on the outside of the hub.
Goo goo g'joob.
↑The hub axle that was removed
↑Right side of the hub body
↑Inside the bearing adjustment nut
I cleaned everything thoroughly.
↑Temporary centering at the time of hub reassembly.
The rim is offset to the left side.
I performed trueing and centering.
The valve sleeve was the original first-generation type.
I was considering whether I should replace it with the current third-generation one
if the valve didn't thread smoothly,
and then have the customer buy an additional one for the rear wheel,
but since a threadless valve extender went through fairly smoothly,
I left it as-is this time.
When I inspected another Bora 35 with narrow rim tubular spec some time ago,
I did replace it (→here).
Back when only the first generation existed,
for hubs where the valve didn't thread well,
I would lightly file the valve sleeve itself or
the front and rear bore diameter using a half-round file
to make the valve fit better.
It's a bright label with WO (tubular) spec on a wide rim.
The customer said they got it from an online auction,
but when they attempted to grease it,
the hub axle and right end cup turned out to be separate pieces,
and the customer damaged the thread pitch of the hub axle
when the right end cup came off.
In other words, this is a "new axle required" situation.
On the hub axle side, about 3 threads from the end face were stripped,
and on the right hollow end bolt, the surface treatment of the threads was peeling,
leaving the thread crests flattened out.
The right end cup couldn't go in straight—
it would always go in slightly crooked,
and after turning about one thread, it would feel like it suddenly caught.
Though this is chronologically much later in the work,
when I threaded the right end cup (a left/right common part)
onto the left-side threads of the hub axle
pulled from the hub body, it went in smoothly with just finger pressure.
I've returned the original parts to the customer,
but the right end cup is still usable
and can serve as a spare for the left end cup in the future.
We had a replacement hub axle in stock.
The part number is HB-BO201, Hub Bora 201, so
it originally came out as a Bora part,
but there's also a separate hub axle that originally came out for Shamal Ultra.
The difference is that the Bora version has more distance
from the dust cap flange to the tapered section where the right bearing cone fits,
and the black aluminum spacer section extends further inward
compared to the Shamal Ultra version.
The right end cup loosened by hand.
I applied a high-strength threadlocker to the threads
and then tightened the right end cup down hard.
The red threadlocker that's visible at the top of the image
I wiped away afterward.
Going forward, instead of using "14mm wrench on the parallel section on the right side +
5mm Allen key on the right end,"
if someone tries opening it with "5mm Allen keys on both the left and right ends,"
the right end should come loose first only in the rarest of cases.
I've made a 14mm wrench that fits perfectly
the parallel section on the outside of the hub axle
specifically for adjusting this area, but in reality
even with it, there can be very slight tool marks.
There aren't any in the image above because
I held the hub axle in a vise using an axle cone wrench.
The original hub axle—if you apply a 14mm wrench while it's in the hollow state
without the right end cup and turn it, the threads will become severely stripped
(that's what requires a new axle),
but it can be held securely using the axle cone wrench.
The left end cup was very tightly tightened,
but it loosened with a sharp "click!" sound.
I was torn about whether to use the original right end cup here
(the threads on the left end are in better condition,
but the hex socket on the right end is better),
so I reused the left end cup as-is.
We do have new spare end cups in stock,
but I determined that replacement wasn't necessary.
↑This is the left side of the hub body,
and there was a lot of that yellowish custard-like grease
(yellow matter custard dripping from a dead dog's eye)
caked in unnecessary places, even on the outside of the hub.
Goo goo g'joob.
↑The hub axle that was removed
↑Right side of the hub body
↑Inside the bearing adjustment nut
I cleaned everything thoroughly.
↑Temporary centering at the time of hub reassembly.
The rim is offset to the left side.
I performed trueing and centering.
The valve sleeve was the original first-generation type.
I was considering whether I should replace it with the current third-generation one
if the valve didn't thread smoothly,
and then have the customer buy an additional one for the rear wheel,
but since a threadless valve extender went through fairly smoothly,
I left it as-is this time.
When I inspected another Bora 35 with narrow rim tubular spec some time ago,
I did replace it (→here).
Back when only the first generation existed,
for hubs where the valve didn't thread well,
I would lightly file the valve sleeve itself or
the front and rear bore diameter using a half-round file
to make the valve fit better.