I received a Racing 1 from a customer.
They want hub overhaul, spoke truing, and center alignment work.
The rim side came out clean with what I call the "Secret Yahoo Ninja Technique" (※),
but that's only because it wasn't that worn to begin with—really badly gouged rim sides won't come back clean even with this method.
※The ominous name "Secret Yahoo Ninja Technique" is just something I made up myself
because the wheel ends up looking like a "★ Fine Condition ★" listing.
A little side note
Record hubs from 1999 onwards had aluminum shafts,
but the rear hub shaft doesn't have butting.
Since it's rotating, "shaft outer diameter < freewheel body cartridge bearing inner diameter,"
but there's just a tiny gap. By removing the set screw on the freewheel body,
you can inject grease inside with a grease gun.
Record hubs from 2007 onwards have butting on the shaft for weight reduction.
The grease holes that used to be in the hub body and freewheel body were eliminated.
This is because excess grease would get trapped in the butted section.
But this change comes with a minor drawback...
With the old shaft, when the right end nut loosens,
the freewheel body just wobbles left and right,
but with the new shaft, when the right end nut loosens,
the butted section creates play in the up-and-down direction too.
As a result, rubbing occurs at the area circled in red in the diagram above.
I disassembled and cleaned the hub,
and the right end nut was loose enough to loosen by hand.
There's a reverse thread design here to resist loosening,
but it doesn't have a double nut,
so wheels that come in tend to loosen up quite a bit.
I've mentioned this many times in the past, but it's a point worth checking.
I don't use thread-locking compound or over-tighten things,
but I do make sure to tighten properly.
↑This is why.
At this level, there's no actual problem in use.
There was one spot with noticeable runout, and a slight centering issue.
They want hub overhaul, spoke truing, and center alignment work.
The rim side came out clean with what I call the "Secret Yahoo Ninja Technique" (※),
but that's only because it wasn't that worn to begin with—really badly gouged rim sides won't come back clean even with this method.
※The ominous name "Secret Yahoo Ninja Technique" is just something I made up myself
because the wheel ends up looking like a "★ Fine Condition ★" listing.
A little side note
Record hubs from 1999 onwards had aluminum shafts,
but the rear hub shaft doesn't have butting.
Since it's rotating, "shaft outer diameter < freewheel body cartridge bearing inner diameter,"
but there's just a tiny gap. By removing the set screw on the freewheel body,
you can inject grease inside with a grease gun.
Record hubs from 2007 onwards have butting on the shaft for weight reduction.
The grease holes that used to be in the hub body and freewheel body were eliminated.
This is because excess grease would get trapped in the butted section.
But this change comes with a minor drawback...
With the old shaft, when the right end nut loosens,
the freewheel body just wobbles left and right,
but with the new shaft, when the right end nut loosens,
the butted section creates play in the up-and-down direction too.
As a result, rubbing occurs at the area circled in red in the diagram above.
I disassembled and cleaned the hub,
and the right end nut was loose enough to loosen by hand.
There's a reverse thread design here to resist loosening,
but it doesn't have a double nut,
so wheels that come in tend to loosen up quite a bit.
I've mentioned this many times in the past, but it's a point worth checking.
I don't use thread-locking compound or over-tighten things,
but I do make sure to tighten properly.
↑This is why.
At this level, there's no actual problem in use.
There was one spot with noticeable runout, and a slight centering issue.