The drill is screaming!
I did internal cable routing modifications for electric Dura-Ace 9070 on a frame that a customer left with me.
I won't write down where or what kind of frame it is to avoid any issues.
I had to drill holes in a frame that wasn't designed for electronic components
and route the wiring internally as much as possible.
Shimano makes tape for attaching external electronic cables to frames,
but the adhesive is disappointingly weak so I'd rather not use it.
To be fair though, if the adhesive were any stronger,
it could damage the frame's paint in some cases,
so they've actually managed to strike a difficult balance.
This frame has an all-white down tube, so the tape would be white,
but compared to black, it has weaker adhesion and is less reliable due to sun fading.
Plus, when you peel off the tape later, the white on the frame can become discolored
and the paint's sun damage becomes really noticeable.
So I'm going to try doing this without using any tape at all.
Front derailleur
Rear derailleur
Battery bracket
Top junction
Perfect, just like I envisioned it!
I told the customer "if it's possible, I'll give it a try,"
but I actually ordered the 150mm electronic cable for the battery bracket mount.
That's the shortest length in the lineup, too short to use for external routing.
You could say I've burned my bridges—or really, I was totally committed from the start.
I managed to get all four cables out through the BB hole.
Now I can make a fully internal bottom junction.
With semi-internal routing, you're stuck using external junctions
with screw mounting on the BB shell . . .
Not a Canon d . . . wait, this frame has press-fit wire guides on the BB shell,
so fitting an external junction is a bit of a hassle.
Since it's a Hollowgram crank, it's got a press-fit BB30, which worked in my favor.
The water shield on this
completely prevents any interference between the crankshaft and the electronic cables.
I did internal cable routing modifications for electric Dura-Ace 9070 on a frame that a customer left with me.
I won't write down where or what kind of frame it is to avoid any issues.
I had to drill holes in a frame that wasn't designed for electronic components
and route the wiring internally as much as possible.
Shimano makes tape for attaching external electronic cables to frames,
but the adhesive is disappointingly weak so I'd rather not use it.
To be fair though, if the adhesive were any stronger,
it could damage the frame's paint in some cases,
so they've actually managed to strike a difficult balance.
This frame has an all-white down tube, so the tape would be white,
but compared to black, it has weaker adhesion and is less reliable due to sun fading.
Plus, when you peel off the tape later, the white on the frame can become discolored
and the paint's sun damage becomes really noticeable.
So I'm going to try doing this without using any tape at all.
Front derailleur
Rear derailleur
Battery bracket
Top junction
Perfect, just like I envisioned it!
I told the customer "if it's possible, I'll give it a try,"
but I actually ordered the 150mm electronic cable for the battery bracket mount.
That's the shortest length in the lineup, too short to use for external routing.
You could say I've burned my bridges—or really, I was totally committed from the start.
I managed to get all four cables out through the BB hole.
Now I can make a fully internal bottom junction.
With semi-internal routing, you're stuck using external junctions
with screw mounting on the BB shell . . .
Not a Canon d . . . wait, this frame has press-fit wire guides on the BB shell,
so fitting an external junction is a bit of a hassle.
Since it's a Hollowgram crank, it's got a press-fit BB30, which worked in my favor.
The water shield on this
completely prevents any interference between the crankshaft and the electronic cables.