I took in an EA50 from a customer.
Since I started posting articles with "～san" in the title,
I've been getting more requests for final adjustments on complete wheelsets,
but I can't say any particular manufacturer is especially bad.
If I had to pick one, Mavic rear wheels seem to have center drift issues more often.
With Easton wheelsets, the center is usually spot-on.
They probably have strict final quality control.
Wheels that fail inspection get sent back to the assembly area
（except for things that can't be trued — wheels are products where this is possible）
If it's about 1 out of 100 wheels, that's not a problem,
but when it becomes 5 or 10 out of 100,
it ends up being more cost-effective to improve the precision of wheel building itself.
（What you shouldn't do here is loosen the accuracy of your centering gauge）
The front wheel had perfect center and almost no runout for the time it had been ridden.
I thought, "that's Easton for you," then I checked the rear wheel
and found a slight center drift.
It was the kind that would disappear with a one-sided truing adjustment.
↑The right end nut came loose by hand,
but since I did a rear hub overhaul before proceeding with the work,
this nut looseness wasn't what was detected as the center drift.
↑The grease was wiped away on half of the seal—
this happened because the seal had lifted out of its groove where it should sit
and was rubbing against the freebody.
Since I started posting articles with "～san" in the title,
I've been getting more requests for final adjustments on complete wheelsets,
but I can't say any particular manufacturer is especially bad.
If I had to pick one, Mavic rear wheels seem to have center drift issues more often.
With Easton wheelsets, the center is usually spot-on.
They probably have strict final quality control.
Wheels that fail inspection get sent back to the assembly area
（except for things that can't be trued — wheels are products where this is possible）
If it's about 1 out of 100 wheels, that's not a problem,
but when it becomes 5 or 10 out of 100,
it ends up being more cost-effective to improve the precision of wheel building itself.
（What you shouldn't do here is loosen the accuracy of your centering gauge）
The front wheel had perfect center and almost no runout for the time it had been ridden.
I thought, "that's Easton for you," then I checked the rear wheel
and found a slight center drift.
It was the kind that would disappear with a one-sided truing adjustment.
↑The right end nut came loose by hand,
but since I did a rear hub overhaul before proceeding with the work,
this nut looseness wasn't what was detected as the center drift.
↑The grease was wiped away on half of the seal—
this happened because the seal had lifted out of its groove where it should sit
and was rubbing against the freebody.