I built the のむラボ (Nomu Lab) wheel #5 with a disc brake hub.
The #5 rim is currently out of stock with no confirmed restock date,
but this wheel was built using a rim that had been waiting for the hub from a pre-order.
First, about wheel building with a disc brake hub.
Similar diagram to the rim brake from last time.
Think of the disc rotor and hub as a single rigid body.
In the case of disc brakes and such (other examples include band brakes on utility bikes),
the braking happens at the hub side.
At the moment of braking, the rim side is still rotating.
The spokes that get really tight at that moment
are the spokes on the upper side of the wheel pointing forward relative to the direction of travel.
These are what I call the anti-porcupine direction spokes on this blog.
Since we want the outboard spokes (that is, the pulling spokes) to handle the stopping power,
it's best to build so that the blue spokes in the diagram above are pulling spokes.
In my previous article, I received a comment saying,
"The way spokes get tight is not the same depending on whether the wheel spokes are in forward or reverse motion."
The wheel doesn't just float in the air spinning;
it's in contact with the ground moving forward, so that's certainly a fair point.
Explaining this in detail would make this post extremely long, so I'll skip it this time.
Anyway, for the front wheel, the pulling spokes on both sides should be in the anti-porcupine direction,
which means building it in reverse Italian lacing.
The rear wheel is different.
Since the pulling spokes have to handle the twisting of the freewheel body,
the pulling spokes on the freewheel side must be in the porcupine direction.
On the non-freewheel side, the pulling spokes handle the true straight strike power of the hub-side brake,
so we place the pulling spokes in the anti-porcupine direction.
This is basically JIS lacing.
So, today's whe... (and so on).
Actually built it.
Front hub is XT, rear hub is SLX with through-axle.
For the rear wheel first, I built it in JIS 48-spoke lacing.
Both of these hubs prohibit radial lacing,
but if they were built radially, twisting like in the diagram above
would occur during braking.
That being the case, if we used the most tangential lacing, which is furthest from radial lacing,
we might better handle the twisting stress during braking.
So I used 8-spoke lacing on the non-freewheel side.
This also serves to correct left-right spoke tension differences.
Now for the front wheel.
Due to attaching the disc rotor on the left side,
the left flange width is narrower.
Not as extreme as the right side of the rear hub,
but because of this, I can't build with equal spoke tension on both sides.
Since the left-right flange width difference is less severe than the rear hub,
I thought that 48-24 lacing (the reverse of 24-48) might balance
the left-right spoke tension, but since I made the brake side move away from radial lacing on the rear wheel,
it would be wrong to build the front wheel in the opposite way.
So I ended up with 36-36 reverse Italian lacing.
↑This hub is actually slightly high-low flange.
Since the hub itself shows some consideration for this, I took advantage of it.
Front wheel in reverse Italian lacing, rear wheel in JIS lacing
is not something I invented—it's general practice.
Shimano's instruction manuals also specify this lacing pattern,
(the image above essentially summarizes this)
but they don't express it in words.
When expressed in words, it becomes:
"For the front wheel, on both sides, build in tangential lacing with spokes passing from inside to outside the hub flange
pointing forward in the upper half of the wheel.
The freewheel side of the rear wheel is the same. Only the non-freewheel side of the rear wheel is built opposite to these."
Shimano manuals are written in various languages like the Rosetta Stone,
but since terms like "JIS lacing" don't have universal meaning worldwide,
this is the only way to express the lacing pattern.
Even on this blog, writing "spokes passing from inside to outside the hub flange" repeatedly is tedious,
so I invented the neologism "pulling spokes" for convenience.
Going off on a tangent, but SRAM component manuals are even more impressive.
They explain assembly procedures with diagrams, using as few words as possible.
It's like a plastic model or IKEA self-assembly furniture instruction manual.
↑English
↑French
↑Hieroglyphics (Ancient Egyptian sacred script)
The #5 rim is currently out of stock with no confirmed restock date,
but this wheel was built using a rim that had been waiting for the hub from a pre-order.
First, about wheel building with a disc brake hub.
Similar diagram to the rim brake from last time.
Think of the disc rotor and hub as a single rigid body.
In the case of disc brakes and such (other examples include band brakes on utility bikes),
the braking happens at the hub side.
At the moment of braking, the rim side is still rotating.
The spokes that get really tight at that moment
are the spokes on the upper side of the wheel pointing forward relative to the direction of travel.
These are what I call the anti-porcupine direction spokes on this blog.
Since we want the outboard spokes (that is, the pulling spokes) to handle the stopping power,
it's best to build so that the blue spokes in the diagram above are pulling spokes.
In my previous article, I received a comment saying,
"The way spokes get tight is not the same depending on whether the wheel spokes are in forward or reverse motion."
The wheel doesn't just float in the air spinning;
it's in contact with the ground moving forward, so that's certainly a fair point.
Explaining this in detail would make this post extremely long, so I'll skip it this time.
Anyway, for the front wheel, the pulling spokes on both sides should be in the anti-porcupine direction,
which means building it in reverse Italian lacing.
The rear wheel is different.
Since the pulling spokes have to handle the twisting of the freewheel body,
the pulling spokes on the freewheel side must be in the porcupine direction.
On the non-freewheel side, the pulling spokes handle the true straight strike power of the hub-side brake,
so we place the pulling spokes in the anti-porcupine direction.
This is basically JIS lacing.
So, today's whe... (and so on).
Actually built it.
Front hub is XT, rear hub is SLX with through-axle.
For the rear wheel first, I built it in JIS 48-spoke lacing.
Both of these hubs prohibit radial lacing,
but if they were built radially, twisting like in the diagram above
would occur during braking.
That being the case, if we used the most tangential lacing, which is furthest from radial lacing,
we might better handle the twisting stress during braking.
So I used 8-spoke lacing on the non-freewheel side.
This also serves to correct left-right spoke tension differences.
Now for the front wheel.
Due to attaching the disc rotor on the left side,
the left flange width is narrower.
Not as extreme as the right side of the rear hub,
but because of this, I can't build with equal spoke tension on both sides.
Since the left-right flange width difference is less severe than the rear hub,
I thought that 48-24 lacing (the reverse of 24-48) might balance
the left-right spoke tension, but since I made the brake side move away from radial lacing on the rear wheel,
it would be wrong to build the front wheel in the opposite way.
So I ended up with 36-36 reverse Italian lacing.
↑This hub is actually slightly high-low flange.
Since the hub itself shows some consideration for this, I took advantage of it.
Front wheel in reverse Italian lacing, rear wheel in JIS lacing
is not something I invented—it's general practice.
Shimano's instruction manuals also specify this lacing pattern,
(the image above essentially summarizes this)
but they don't express it in words.
When expressed in words, it becomes:
"For the front wheel, on both sides, build in tangential lacing with spokes passing from inside to outside the hub flange
pointing forward in the upper half of the wheel.
The freewheel side of the rear wheel is the same. Only the non-freewheel side of the rear wheel is built opposite to these."
Shimano manuals are written in various languages like the Rosetta Stone,
but since terms like "JIS lacing" don't have universal meaning worldwide,
this is the only way to express the lacing pattern.
Even on this blog, writing "spokes passing from inside to outside the hub flange" repeatedly is tedious,
so I invented the neologism "pulling spokes" for convenience.
Going off on a tangent, but SRAM component manuals are even more impressive.
They explain assembly procedures with diagrams, using as few words as possible.
It's like a plastic model or IKEA self-assembly furniture instruction manual.
↑English
↑French
↑Hieroglyphics (Ancient Egyptian sacred script)