Today it's wheels again (and so on).
A customer entrusted me with a wheel built with a Tni ROAD38 rim and a Gokiso hub.
This rim is the same as the one on the Nomu Lab Wheel No. 2,
but apparently it is also Nomu Lab Wheel No. 2.
In other words, they say it's a wheel I assembled in the past,
but that's definitely not the case.
The customer is not the original owner of this wheel,
and they purchased it because it was supposedly built at our shop,
but there were several reasons why I didn't build it.
The rear wheel is 28H all CX-RAY right-drop 46-Italian laced with no junction lugs,
but I've never built a wheel with this Gokiso hub in 28H.
There's no history of it in past articles on this blog or in my spoke length calculation formulas either.
Since the rear wheel was laced in 46-pattern,
I may have meant to convey that it was built using the Nomu Lab method,
but it seems to have been interpreted as Nomu Lab-made.
The customer's first request was to switch to black spokes,
and if possible, to build it tighter,
but for the front wheel, I would use the same spokes in a different color and lace them the same way, so
I thought I could settle it this way
but that wasn't going to work.
The rim is a 2013 Equinox WH007, but it's definitely not an Equinox-branded SP38 rim—
it's a Tni-branded sticker removal.
This is because there's no other WH007 with this kind of rim side finish.
And it's definitely not a Gokiso rim either.
If it were a Gokiso rim, the brake pad warning sticker in the image would be changed
from "Use Equinox brake pads..." to "Use Gokiso brake pads..."
Also, even though this rim is the 38mm height version,
the spoke tension is specified at 100 kgf.
From experience, I know there are no problems,
so I actually tension it at 100 kgf or higher.
Actually, even in the condition when I received it, it was already well over 100 kgf.
Both front and rear wheels were laced with offset spoke holes.
The rear wheel was also laced in 46-Italian right-drop and with offset spoke holes,
which is another reason this isn't my work.
Though I do have my own Nomu Lab Wheel No. 2 front wheel laced with offset holes.
The holes on the inner circumference side appear to have no offset,
but the outer circumference side clearly does,
so
if laced in reverse
the tools would scrape the rim.
Since I'm not reusing the spokes, I cut them,
but before cutting, I loosened 17 out of 20 nipples sufficiently to release tension,
then cut the spokes away.
Looking at the three nipples I hadn't loosened at all,
I can tell the spoke length is on the longer side.
It was built with fairly good tension,
so there won't be any major further tightening needed,
but if it had been built loosely, tightening further from here
would strip out the threads.
Also, it was built with brass nipples for internal routing,
but I don't use those nipples.
It's built.
Gokiso hub 20H, black CX-RAY, normal offset spokes, radial lacing.
I was about to go ahead and build the rear wheel, but I couldn't.
These are DT black Compe spokes, but
the wholesaler's standard stock comes in 300–292mm in 2mm increments,
then jumps to 266–254mm in 2mm increments.
If I could cut 267mm spokes from a 300mm spoke,
this gap would essentially disappear,
and Compe spokes can be cut to longer lengths, so that's possible.
I kept 300mm in stock at the shop,
and tried to keep the shortest length of the longer group, 292mm, in stock as well,
but it's currently out of stock.
As it turns out, the rear wheel's freewheel side spoke length is longer than 267mm,
and is right at the limit of what can be cut from a 300mm spoke.
↑From partway through it becomes size 15, so the nipple hits the bottom and the spoke slips inside instead—
Tomorrow morning I'll stop by the DT wholesaler and pick up some 292mm spokes.
A customer entrusted me with a wheel built with a Tni ROAD38 rim and a Gokiso hub.
This rim is the same as the one on the Nomu Lab Wheel No. 2,
but apparently it is also Nomu Lab Wheel No. 2.
In other words, they say it's a wheel I assembled in the past,
but that's definitely not the case.
The customer is not the original owner of this wheel,
and they purchased it because it was supposedly built at our shop,
but there were several reasons why I didn't build it.
The rear wheel is 28H all CX-RAY right-drop 46-Italian laced with no junction lugs,
but I've never built a wheel with this Gokiso hub in 28H.
There's no history of it in past articles on this blog or in my spoke length calculation formulas either.
Since the rear wheel was laced in 46-pattern,
I may have meant to convey that it was built using the Nomu Lab method,
but it seems to have been interpreted as Nomu Lab-made.
The customer's first request was to switch to black spokes,
and if possible, to build it tighter,
but for the front wheel, I would use the same spokes in a different color and lace them the same way, so
I thought I could settle it this way
but that wasn't going to work.
The rim is a 2013 Equinox WH007, but it's definitely not an Equinox-branded SP38 rim—
it's a Tni-branded sticker removal.
This is because there's no other WH007 with this kind of rim side finish.
And it's definitely not a Gokiso rim either.
If it were a Gokiso rim, the brake pad warning sticker in the image would be changed
from "Use Equinox brake pads..." to "Use Gokiso brake pads..."
Also, even though this rim is the 38mm height version,
the spoke tension is specified at 100 kgf.
From experience, I know there are no problems,
so I actually tension it at 100 kgf or higher.
Actually, even in the condition when I received it, it was already well over 100 kgf.
Both front and rear wheels were laced with offset spoke holes.
The rear wheel was also laced in 46-Italian right-drop and with offset spoke holes,
which is another reason this isn't my work.
Though I do have my own Nomu Lab Wheel No. 2 front wheel laced with offset holes.
The holes on the inner circumference side appear to have no offset,
but the outer circumference side clearly does,
so
if laced in reverse
the tools would scrape the rim.
Since I'm not reusing the spokes, I cut them,
but before cutting, I loosened 17 out of 20 nipples sufficiently to release tension,
then cut the spokes away.
Looking at the three nipples I hadn't loosened at all,
I can tell the spoke length is on the longer side.
It was built with fairly good tension,
so there won't be any major further tightening needed,
but if it had been built loosely, tightening further from here
would strip out the threads.
Also, it was built with brass nipples for internal routing,
but I don't use those nipples.
It's built.
Gokiso hub 20H, black CX-RAY, normal offset spokes, radial lacing.
I was about to go ahead and build the rear wheel, but I couldn't.
These are DT black Compe spokes, but
the wholesaler's standard stock comes in 300–292mm in 2mm increments,
then jumps to 266–254mm in 2mm increments.
If I could cut 267mm spokes from a 300mm spoke,
this gap would essentially disappear,
and Compe spokes can be cut to longer lengths, so that's possible.
I kept 300mm in stock at the shop,
and tried to keep the shortest length of the longer group, 292mm, in stock as well,
but it's currently out of stock.
As it turns out, the rear wheel's freewheel side spoke length is longer than 267mm,
and is right at the limit of what can be cut from a 300mm spoke.
↑From partway through it becomes size 15, so the nipple hits the bottom and the spoke slips inside instead—
Tomorrow morning I'll stop by the DT wholesaler and pick up some 292mm spokes.