A customer brought in a rear wheel built with a PowerTap hub for service.

They only requested spoke tension truing, not a complete rebuild.
The rim is an Ambrosio Excellight SSC


and it's laced with all Campagnolo Record spokes in a JIS cross pattern.
The lateral runout was barely noticeable, but



the centering was way off.
The non-drive side is easier to tension, so
if you do truing without a center gauge like an amateur just winging it
this kind of thing tends to happen.
I can't wrap my head around it.


Huh?

One nipple was abnormally long.
I don't have a 14-gauge 12mm brass nipple on hand, and I'm not sure how this one ended up here,
but I'll swap it out with a nipple matching the others.
By the way, all the other nipples are DT ones with a 3.2mm hex size,
and this nipple was a domestic brand size with a 3.4mm hex.
Pre-built wheel manufacturers often use aluminum nipples with a 4mm (3.95mm) hex,
but Easton's tubeless wheels seem to be trying to squeeze out every bit of dimension within generic size ranges—
they use 3.4mm hex aluminum nipples.
Actually, this might be that exact nipple itself.


Swapped it out.


↑ The new nipple

↑ The original nipple
The spoke lengths matched up fine.



Got the centering sorted.
The drive-side tension was basically at its limit, so
I had to back off the non-drive side to center it.
But with an all-Campagnolo cross lacing, the non-drive side is surprisingly loose.
By slightly backing off the non-drive side while also tensioning the drive side,
I was able to keep the total spoke tension from dropping too much—
basically sliding the rim toward the drive side.
It's way better than just loosening one side alone.