A customer dropped off a Bora One (Campagnolo wheelset) for inspection.
Since it's not the original owner, they wanted me to give it a thorough once-over just in case.
The front wheel had centering issues.
The amount of runout was beyond what would pass Campagnolo's quality control,
so it looks like someone had attempted a truing job without a proper centering gauge.
Looking at the rear hub shell,
the USB sticker was readable right-side-up when viewed from the right side, so
I reversed the hub shaft orientation of the front hub,
which was facing backwards when viewed from the right.
If the rear hub had been backwards and the front hub was the same way, I wouldn't have done anything.
The new shaft turned out to be a ticking time bomb waiting to happen.
But I'm not falling for that one.
The grip surface on the right end side has stripping marks from before—
I didn't do that.
By the way, what we apply at our shop between the right end hollow bolt and the hub shaft threads is
the super-strong spoke nipple lock compound I mentioned the other day: DT Spoke Freeze.
The bearing cone and race wear can differ between left and right sides,
so when making the swap, I only change the hub shaft orientation
and never swap the bearing cones side-to-side.
With Campagnolo's bearing adjustment,
releasing the wedge-shaped washer can sometimes cause slight center shift,
but in this case, the initial centering issue actually reduced slightly.
To avoid double work, I always change the shaft orientation
before doing the final truing.
Centered the front wheel.
It wasn't particularly loose,
so there was no need to loosen it excessively—
I basically got it dialed in with just slight retightening.
Next, the rear wheel.
It has a slight wobble, but that's probably from regular use over time.
When I focused my truing efforts on retightening the non-freewheel side,
it straightened itself out.
Both the front and rear rims were missing their valve bushings,
so I replaced them with the latest type.
The front rim had a piece of foreign debris so large that just spinning the wheel wouldn't dislodge it,
and after a struggle, I removed it with tweezers—
it turned out to be a rubber shim that someone had wrapped around the valve hole
to stop it from rattling after the valve bushing went missing.
Since it's not the original owner, they wanted me to give it a thorough once-over just in case.
The front wheel had centering issues.
The amount of runout was beyond what would pass Campagnolo's quality control,
so it looks like someone had attempted a truing job without a proper centering gauge.
Looking at the rear hub shell,
the USB sticker was readable right-side-up when viewed from the right side, so
I reversed the hub shaft orientation of the front hub,
which was facing backwards when viewed from the right.
If the rear hub had been backwards and the front hub was the same way, I wouldn't have done anything.
The new shaft turned out to be a ticking time bomb waiting to happen.
But I'm not falling for that one.
The grip surface on the right end side has stripping marks from before—
I didn't do that.
By the way, what we apply at our shop between the right end hollow bolt and the hub shaft threads is
the super-strong spoke nipple lock compound I mentioned the other day: DT Spoke Freeze.
The bearing cone and race wear can differ between left and right sides,
so when making the swap, I only change the hub shaft orientation
and never swap the bearing cones side-to-side.
With Campagnolo's bearing adjustment,
releasing the wedge-shaped washer can sometimes cause slight center shift,
but in this case, the initial centering issue actually reduced slightly.
To avoid double work, I always change the shaft orientation
before doing the final truing.
Centered the front wheel.
It wasn't particularly loose,
so there was no need to loosen it excessively—
I basically got it dialed in with just slight retightening.
Next, the rear wheel.
It has a slight wobble, but that's probably from regular use over time.
When I focused my truing efforts on retightening the non-freewheel side,
it straightened itself out.
Both the front and rear rims were missing their valve bushings,
so I replaced them with the latest type.
The front rim had a piece of foreign debris so large that just spinning the wheel wouldn't dislodge it,
and after a struggle, I removed it with tweezers—
it turned out to be a rubber shim that someone had wrapped around the valve hole
to stop it from rattling after the valve bushing went missing.