Another day of wheels (and so on).
A customer brought in a Reynolds DV46T rear wheel for me to work on.
It's not at the point of spoke breakage yet,
but the tension is loose, so they want it rebuilt.
It's a 20H all-black Comp 40-spoke lacing pattern,
but since the anti-freewheel side is radial-laced,
the looseness isn't just from that
(though that's part of it, of course)—the wheel is clearly sagging compared to when it was first built.
Of course, even if I tighten it from this lacing pattern, there's only so much tension I can add.
There was a noticeable amount of runout at the rim center.
All of the freewheel-side spokes had chain marks on them,
so I loosened the nipples on about half the wheel circumference
to relieve tension, then cut and disassembled the spokes.
But there were some nipples that the tool wouldn't grip...
Just one had been repaired with a generic nipple installed upside down.
The tool couldn't grip it, so it hadn't been loosened at all,
and aside from needing a different tool for that one nipple,
the spoke length was way too long.
This made me realize that
aside from the 40-spoke lacing, the low tension and the runout
both seem to come from sloppy truing work done during that repair job.
Even accounting for sag from the original build, this was way too loose.
The shop has the same internal-thread nipples in stock,
so I'll use one of those as a replacement when rebuilding.
Wheel is built.
Evolite hub 20H, black semi-championship 40-spoke lacing with cross-lacing pattern.
The original rear hub was a Reynolds-branded DT hub,
and I told the customer that reusing it would be fine,
but they wanted to upgrade to an Evolite hub, so that's what we did.
The front wheel is also in for inspection,
but it was in bad enough shape that truing alone won't fix it,
so I couldn't finish that today.
A customer brought in a Reynolds DV46T rear wheel for me to work on.
It's not at the point of spoke breakage yet,
but the tension is loose, so they want it rebuilt.
It's a 20H all-black Comp 40-spoke lacing pattern,
but since the anti-freewheel side is radial-laced,
the looseness isn't just from that
(though that's part of it, of course)—the wheel is clearly sagging compared to when it was first built.
Of course, even if I tighten it from this lacing pattern, there's only so much tension I can add.
There was a noticeable amount of runout at the rim center.
All of the freewheel-side spokes had chain marks on them,
so I loosened the nipples on about half the wheel circumference
to relieve tension, then cut and disassembled the spokes.
But there were some nipples that the tool wouldn't grip...
Just one had been repaired with a generic nipple installed upside down.
The tool couldn't grip it, so it hadn't been loosened at all,
and aside from needing a different tool for that one nipple,
the spoke length was way too long.
This made me realize that
aside from the 40-spoke lacing, the low tension and the runout
both seem to come from sloppy truing work done during that repair job.
Even accounting for sag from the original build, this was way too loose.
The shop has the same internal-thread nipples in stock,
so I'll use one of those as a replacement when rebuilding.
Wheel is built.
Evolite hub 20H, black semi-championship 40-spoke lacing with cross-lacing pattern.
The original rear hub was a Reynolds-branded DT hub,
and I told the customer that reusing it would be fine,
but they wanted to upgrade to an Evolite hub, so that's what we did.
The front wheel is also in for inspection,
but it was in bad enough shape that truing alone won't fix it,
so I couldn't finish that today.