Another day with wheels (and so on).

I received a front wheel built with a Reynolds 32 rim from a customer.
It was originally built with all-alloy 20H spokes in reverse spoke radial lacing with a rim brake setup,
but the customer wanted me to rebuild it as a 100×12mm thru-axle
disc hub wheel.

Built it.

Novatec D791SB hub, 20H, semi-alloy 4:4 reverse Italian lacing.
I'll do the spoke wrapping later.

Going back in time: the Reynolds front wheel was built with reverse rim orientation.
The rear wheel is built with standard rim orientation.
This silver hub looks nothing like a pre-built wheelset,
but it's a Reynolds wheel.
For another issue with the same front wheel (→here)

Reynolds rims have no valve hole offset,
(which is also why their official stance differs on front vs. rear rim orientation)
so they can be built either way, and I myself usually build Reynolds 32 rim rebuilds and
the Nomu Lab Wheel No. 6 front wheel with standard rim orientation,
but this time I built it with reverse rim orientation.
With tangent lacing, you need to pay careful attention to whether spokes
drop on the right or left when threading them through the hub,
as this gets reversed depending on rim orientation.

I received a comment a while back asking: where should you align
Novatec's red-striped hubs (the images above show 291 and 482) relative to
the valve hole phase?


In my case, I align Novatec hubs at the "NOVA" part of the name—
where the hub branding is visible—
but as long as your front and rear wheels are consistent with each other,
you can align it anywhere you prefer.
For example, with Dura-Ace hubs,
I align mine to the DURA-ACE logo.
The part number like HB-9000 is on the exact opposite side,
but Shimano's pre-built wheelsets
align to the part number side like WH-9000.
If you build both wheels around the same time,
you probably won't mess up the consistency,
but when there's a gap between building them, you can't check the matching wheel,
so you might get the alignment wrong.
Previously, when I built a front and rear pair with the request "please color the 5 consecutive rim holes on the nipples near the opposite side of the valve hole in Arcenciel colors"
at different times,
I did one wheel blue→red→black→gold(yellow)→green in clockwise order,
but when I built the other one later, I accidentally did the reverse sequence,
so I had to fix it afterward.

I received a front wheel built with a Reynolds 32 rim from a customer.
It was originally built with all-alloy 20H spokes in reverse spoke radial lacing with a rim brake setup,
but the customer wanted me to rebuild it as a 100×12mm thru-axle
disc hub wheel.

Built it.

Novatec D791SB hub, 20H, semi-alloy 4:4 reverse Italian lacing.
I'll do the spoke wrapping later.

Going back in time: the Reynolds front wheel was built with reverse rim orientation.
The rear wheel is built with standard rim orientation.
This silver hub looks nothing like a pre-built wheelset,
but it's a Reynolds wheel.
For another issue with the same front wheel (→here)

Reynolds rims have no valve hole offset,
(which is also why their official stance differs on front vs. rear rim orientation)
so they can be built either way, and I myself usually build Reynolds 32 rim rebuilds and
the Nomu Lab Wheel No. 6 front wheel with standard rim orientation,
but this time I built it with reverse rim orientation.
With tangent lacing, you need to pay careful attention to whether spokes
drop on the right or left when threading them through the hub,
as this gets reversed depending on rim orientation.

I received a comment a while back asking: where should you align
Novatec's red-striped hubs (the images above show 291 and 482) relative to
the valve hole phase?


In my case, I align Novatec hubs at the "NOVA" part of the name—
where the hub branding is visible—
but as long as your front and rear wheels are consistent with each other,
you can align it anywhere you prefer.
For example, with Dura-Ace hubs,
I align mine to the DURA-ACE logo.
The part number like HB-9000 is on the exact opposite side,
but Shimano's pre-built wheelsets
align to the part number side like WH-9000.
If you build both wheels around the same time,
you probably won't mess up the consistency,
but when there's a gap between building them, you can't check the matching wheel,
so you might get the alignment wrong.
Previously, when I built a front and rear pair with the request "please color the 5 consecutive rim holes on the nipples near the opposite side of the valve hole in Arcenciel colors"
at different times,
I did one wheel blue→red→black→gold(yellow)→green in clockwise order,
but when I built the other one later, I accidentally did the reverse sequence,
so I had to fix it afterward.