I took in a Shamal Mille from a customer.
Starting with the front wheel.
The main work is on the rear wheel, but since we're doing a near-complete overhaul
I'm inspecting the entire bike, so I checked the front wheel too.
The hub spins smoothly with no grinding, and there's no lateral play in the axle.
The image above is after work, but even before work there was no centering issues.
I forgot to take a full wheel photo, but oh well
(it's still in the shop right now anyway).
Now for the rear wheel.
↑The spokes on the non-drive side are bent.
The cause was a crash, apparently.
Because of this, the rear wheel rubs against the chainstay,
and the wheel can't complete a full rotation.
↑There's a scuff mark on the tire sidewall just at this angle.
There were no noticeable marks on the frame itself.
It doesn't seem like the crash happened somewhere distant and the rider managed to ride it back.
Next to the spoke on the non-drive side that needs replacing is
a spoke on the drive side with marks from amateur tinkering.
I'll try to see if it can be straightened without needing replacement.
The rear hub has lateral play, and the bearings in the freewheel body
(at least the outer ones) are shot,
When I shake just the freewheel body by hand, it moves with some eccentricity.
When I grasp the sprocket and shake it with the sprocket attached,
it's even more pronounced.
↑skipping ahead quite a bit in the timeline, here's the after.
The hub rotation was gritty and had play, so
there's a possibility the USB one bearing has spalling damage too.
I removed the freewheel body.
There's a rust band right below the outer bearing.
I removed the rust.
↑After removing the outer bearing, looking from the inner unsealed side
the interior of the freewheel body
was cleaned.
I did a bit more rust removal after that.
If I clean up (i.e., polish away) the rust transferred to the press-fit area
of the outer bearing's outer race, the bearing fit becomes loose,
so I kept it moderate. Besides, the press fit here was already on the loose side to begin with.
I removed the play from the hub.
In this condition, the rotation is smooth with no grinding, so
it turns out the only bad bearing is on the freewheel body side.
The inner bearings of the freewheel body showed no damage.
I replaced the spoke and trued the wheel.
Ideally, this should have been done first.
There's a non-zero chance that I could have overhauled the hub,
only to discover the rim was crushed and decided not to fix it anyway.
Before touching the hub, I did confirm that the bead hook wasn't deformed,
and the major runout seemed to be caused only by spoke damage
rather than the rim being bent like a potato chip.
The spoke with the blue tape is the replacement spoke,
and the spoke to its left had the twist damage.
Somehow, I managed to straighten it out nicely.
What's surprising is that this spoke's nipple
wasn't seized or showing signs of seizing at all.
Separately, there were 2 nipples showing signs of seizing,
and since I fully removed them, I marked them with white tape as you see
on the spokes in the image above.
Going back in the timeline.
When trying to tighten the nipple,
I feel resistance like I'm compacting sand stuck in the threads,
and it won't turn any further. So if it can be loosened,
I loosen it first to clean the threads,
then apply spoke thread-locker, which actually makes rotation smoother before it sets,
and retighten it.
I can now tighten past where it was stuck before,
with less force required than originally needed.
↑Even though it was quite seized,
the spoke didn't twist.
↑The replaced spoke
It's hard to convey in the image, but
it's severely dented and deformed in both left-right and front-back directions.
Starting with the front wheel.
The main work is on the rear wheel, but since we're doing a near-complete overhaul
I'm inspecting the entire bike, so I checked the front wheel too.
The hub spins smoothly with no grinding, and there's no lateral play in the axle.
The image above is after work, but even before work there was no centering issues.
I forgot to take a full wheel photo, but oh well
(it's still in the shop right now anyway).
Now for the rear wheel.
↑The spokes on the non-drive side are bent.
The cause was a crash, apparently.
Because of this, the rear wheel rubs against the chainstay,
and the wheel can't complete a full rotation.
↑There's a scuff mark on the tire sidewall just at this angle.
There were no noticeable marks on the frame itself.
It doesn't seem like the crash happened somewhere distant and the rider managed to ride it back.
Next to the spoke on the non-drive side that needs replacing is
a spoke on the drive side with marks from amateur tinkering.
I'll try to see if it can be straightened without needing replacement.
The rear hub has lateral play, and the bearings in the freewheel body
(at least the outer ones) are shot,
When I shake just the freewheel body by hand, it moves with some eccentricity.
When I grasp the sprocket and shake it with the sprocket attached,
it's even more pronounced.
↑skipping ahead quite a bit in the timeline, here's the after.
The hub rotation was gritty and had play, so
there's a possibility the USB one bearing has spalling damage too.
I removed the freewheel body.
There's a rust band right below the outer bearing.
I removed the rust.
↑After removing the outer bearing, looking from the inner unsealed side
the interior of the freewheel body
was cleaned.
I did a bit more rust removal after that.
If I clean up (i.e., polish away) the rust transferred to the press-fit area
of the outer bearing's outer race, the bearing fit becomes loose,
so I kept it moderate. Besides, the press fit here was already on the loose side to begin with.
I removed the play from the hub.
In this condition, the rotation is smooth with no grinding, so
it turns out the only bad bearing is on the freewheel body side.
The inner bearings of the freewheel body showed no damage.
I replaced the spoke and trued the wheel.
Ideally, this should have been done first.
There's a non-zero chance that I could have overhauled the hub,
only to discover the rim was crushed and decided not to fix it anyway.
Before touching the hub, I did confirm that the bead hook wasn't deformed,
and the major runout seemed to be caused only by spoke damage
rather than the rim being bent like a potato chip.
The spoke with the blue tape is the replacement spoke,
and the spoke to its left had the twist damage.
Somehow, I managed to straighten it out nicely.
What's surprising is that this spoke's nipple
wasn't seized or showing signs of seizing at all.
Separately, there were 2 nipples showing signs of seizing,
and since I fully removed them, I marked them with white tape as you see
on the spokes in the image above.
Going back in the timeline.
When trying to tighten the nipple,
I feel resistance like I'm compacting sand stuck in the threads,
and it won't turn any further. So if it can be loosened,
I loosen it first to clean the threads,
then apply spoke thread-locker, which actually makes rotation smoother before it sets,
and retighten it.
I can now tighten past where it was stuck before,
with less force required than originally needed.
↑Even though it was quite seized,
the spoke didn't twist.
↑The replaced spoke
It's hard to convey in the image, but
it's severely dented and deformed in both left-right and front-back directions.