Another day of wheel building (and so on).
I rebuilt the front wheel from my earlier semi-CX Sprint 6-cross lacing into a 4-cross pattern.
With the CX-RAY side (the 6-cross side) under tension, it was difficult to do the final trueing on the CX Sprint side (4-cross side), so
I loosened the CX-RAY side nipples exactly two full turns,
then tensioned the CX Sprint side.
Since I'd already properly built it once (meaning I'd dialed in the radial runout),
and then loosened it exactly two turns, the CX-RAY side shows almost no radial runout
and acts as a guide for runout,
so if I carefully chase only lateral runout on the CX Sprint side,
I can build it with almost no radial runout.
I haven't touched the CX-RAY nipples at all after loosening them exactly two turns.
From there, I tensioned the CX Sprint side up to just before what I'd consider complete.
I stopped just short because once I tighten the CX-RAY side afterward,
the CX Sprint side tension will increase slightly,
and I'm aiming to account for that micro-increase in my final state.
Here's the CX Sprint side fully tensioned.
There's a huge amount of lateral offset, but
the moment the CX-RAY side final tightening brings the wheel centered
is the point where we're at the proper tension.
In practice, I end up touching the CX Sprint side a little as I fine-tune lateral and radial runout at the end.
Since I loosened the CX-RAY side exactly two turns,
if 6-cross and 4-cross are identical
(meaning asymmetric lacing has no purpose),
then tightening the CX-RAY side exactly two turns again should bring the wheel into center.
Tightened exactly one full turn.
Tightened another full turn.
The wheel is nowhere near centered—we're way past the paper-thin gap stage.
I swear I didn't deliberately under-tension the CX Sprint side during the 6-cross build
just to make these results look dramatic.
Even at the completion of the 6-cross build, I'm confident it was tighter and more evenly balanced
than a stock ENVE wheel.
The additional CX-RAY tensioning needed from here to center is the bonus from asymmetric lacing.
This also isn't official ENVE doctrine, but there are Americans who say things like:
3x would be silly with 24h.
and
And it's been demonstrated by a number of wheel designers
and expert builders that a change in cross count
doesn't affect stiffness.
But this is only comparing 24h rear wheels with identical left-right spoke counts—comparing 4-cross to 6-cross (both radial)—and between those two, maybe there's almost no perceptible difference if you get the tension right.
But this is just the opinion of idiots who'll never think of asymmetric lacing in a lifetime,
and that includes some wheel designers and experienced (in terms of sheer numbers anyway) builders.
In fact, if ENVE were any smarter,
they'd make their rear hubs with the anti-freewheel side dished asymmetrically
so that "no matter who builds it, it's forced into a pseudo-4-cross pattern" design.
Tightened exactly one more turn.
At this angle it looks centered,
but there's still slight lateral runout, so
at this angle there's a paper-thin gap front and back.
Also, at this angle the lateral offset has reversed.
From here I did fine runout truing:
And got it centered.
Under the same conditions where the high-tension side's (disk brake side, rotor flange side / left side)
second spoke tension is at the rim's specified maximum,
with asymmetric-diameter asymmetric lacing, I was able to tighten the low-tension side
by nearly another full nipple turn from my near-completion tension.
I think this difference is large enough to be noticeable in how the wheel rides, but...
To be precise, I started from semi-CX Sprint this time,
so the only difference is the asymmetric lacing portion.
From a stock ENVE wheel, you'd get the full benefit of the asymmetric-diameter asymmetric lacing.
So anyway, another day of wheel building (and so on).
I built the rear wheel too.
R45D hub, 24H, black semi-comp 4-cross JIS lacing.
I'll do the lacing (tying spoke ends) later.
Centered, just to be safe.
ENVE, or rather SMART ENVE, due to that pushy company's restrictive specs,
only offers rim brake rims in a front 20H / rear 24H configuration
(though in the past there were some ultra-deep front rims that were 18H).
Apart from the 2.2, front and rear have different rim heights, but
for instance, if you wanted a rear rim that's 48mm high 24H instead of a 48mm high 20H front and 56mm high 24H rear—wanting to lighten the drive wheel's outer edge—
that spec doesn't exist so you can't do it.
But with disc rims, it's 24H front and rear, so
you can do the cool trick of "front rim specs on both wheels." Hehehehe.
The new 3.4 disc has front and rear rim heights of 38/42mm—a 4mm difference—but
the old 3.4 disc is 35/45mm with a 10mm difference, so
even I think about doing front-rear 35mm for those.
You could say today's wheel set is like an "old SES 3.3"
considering rim weight and height.
It was pretty good in terms of height-to-weight ratio.
Like always, I have no intention of explaining this to anyone.
↑man this guy's got an attitude
Thank you for waiting! Please take a look at this image!
Here's the rim I used for the front wheel!
Here's the rim I used for the rear wheel!
↑Stop that!
I rebuilt the front wheel from my earlier semi-CX Sprint 6-cross lacing into a 4-cross pattern.
With the CX-RAY side (the 6-cross side) under tension, it was difficult to do the final trueing on the CX Sprint side (4-cross side), so
I loosened the CX-RAY side nipples exactly two full turns,
then tensioned the CX Sprint side.
Since I'd already properly built it once (meaning I'd dialed in the radial runout),
and then loosened it exactly two turns, the CX-RAY side shows almost no radial runout
and acts as a guide for runout,
so if I carefully chase only lateral runout on the CX Sprint side,
I can build it with almost no radial runout.
I haven't touched the CX-RAY nipples at all after loosening them exactly two turns.
From there, I tensioned the CX Sprint side up to just before what I'd consider complete.
I stopped just short because once I tighten the CX-RAY side afterward,
the CX Sprint side tension will increase slightly,
and I'm aiming to account for that micro-increase in my final state.
Here's the CX Sprint side fully tensioned.
There's a huge amount of lateral offset, but
the moment the CX-RAY side final tightening brings the wheel centered
is the point where we're at the proper tension.
In practice, I end up touching the CX Sprint side a little as I fine-tune lateral and radial runout at the end.
Since I loosened the CX-RAY side exactly two turns,
if 6-cross and 4-cross are identical
(meaning asymmetric lacing has no purpose),
then tightening the CX-RAY side exactly two turns again should bring the wheel into center.
Tightened exactly one full turn.
Tightened another full turn.
The wheel is nowhere near centered—we're way past the paper-thin gap stage.
I swear I didn't deliberately under-tension the CX Sprint side during the 6-cross build
just to make these results look dramatic.
Even at the completion of the 6-cross build, I'm confident it was tighter and more evenly balanced
than a stock ENVE wheel.
The additional CX-RAY tensioning needed from here to center is the bonus from asymmetric lacing.
This also isn't official ENVE doctrine, but there are Americans who say things like:
3x would be silly with 24h.
and
And it's been demonstrated by a number of wheel designers
and expert builders that a change in cross count
doesn't affect stiffness.
But this is only comparing 24h rear wheels with identical left-right spoke counts—comparing 4-cross to 6-cross (both radial)—and between those two, maybe there's almost no perceptible difference if you get the tension right.
But this is just the opinion of idiots who'll never think of asymmetric lacing in a lifetime,
and that includes some wheel designers and experienced (in terms of sheer numbers anyway) builders.
In fact, if ENVE were any smarter,
they'd make their rear hubs with the anti-freewheel side dished asymmetrically
so that "no matter who builds it, it's forced into a pseudo-4-cross pattern" design.
Tightened exactly one more turn.
At this angle it looks centered,
but there's still slight lateral runout, so
at this angle there's a paper-thin gap front and back.
Also, at this angle the lateral offset has reversed.
From here I did fine runout truing:
And got it centered.
Under the same conditions where the high-tension side's (disk brake side, rotor flange side / left side)
second spoke tension is at the rim's specified maximum,
with asymmetric-diameter asymmetric lacing, I was able to tighten the low-tension side
by nearly another full nipple turn from my near-completion tension.
I think this difference is large enough to be noticeable in how the wheel rides, but...
To be precise, I started from semi-CX Sprint this time,
so the only difference is the asymmetric lacing portion.
From a stock ENVE wheel, you'd get the full benefit of the asymmetric-diameter asymmetric lacing.
So anyway, another day of wheel building (and so on).
I built the rear wheel too.
R45D hub, 24H, black semi-comp 4-cross JIS lacing.
I'll do the lacing (tying spoke ends) later.
Centered, just to be safe.
ENVE, or rather SMART ENVE, due to that pushy company's restrictive specs,
only offers rim brake rims in a front 20H / rear 24H configuration
(though in the past there were some ultra-deep front rims that were 18H).
Apart from the 2.2, front and rear have different rim heights, but
for instance, if you wanted a rear rim that's 48mm high 24H instead of a 48mm high 20H front and 56mm high 24H rear—wanting to lighten the drive wheel's outer edge—
that spec doesn't exist so you can't do it.
But with disc rims, it's 24H front and rear, so
you can do the cool trick of "front rim specs on both wheels." Hehehehe.
The new 3.4 disc has front and rear rim heights of 38/42mm—a 4mm difference—but
the old 3.4 disc is 35/45mm with a 10mm difference, so
even I think about doing front-rear 35mm for those.
You could say today's wheel set is like an "old SES 3.3"
considering rim weight and height.
It was pretty good in terms of height-to-weight ratio.
Like always, I have no intention of explaining this to anyone.
↑man this guy's got an attitude
Thank you for waiting! Please take a look at this image!
Here's the rim I used for the front wheel!
Here's the rim I used for the rear wheel!
↑Stop that!