Another wheel day (and so on).
Continuing from yesterday.
I'm rebuilding the rear wheel with an Open Pro CD ceramic rim.
FH-7700 32H #15 plain true stainless (super magnetic!)
Laced with Italian lacing pattern.
The nipples are star brass, 3.4mm hex size.
Same as the front hub from yesterday—
the non-pulling spoke holes show marks from the pulling spokes.
Reading this tells me that the previous lacing on this hub was also Italian pattern.
Timeline jumping ahead, but here's the hub flange after disassembling the wheel.
Since the spoke hole phase is offset by one,
all flange holes show spoke marks.
It's unclear whether they intentionally did this
to seat the spoke nipples in fresh flange holes.
The spoke lengths matched on both sides.
The three protrusions (or two if aligned with the slot)
are the identifying mark for #15 nipples.
※These are the positioning and fixing protrusions found on the back of a watch dial.
Like the front wheel, it was centered perfectly with virtually no runout.
The non-drive side felt a bit loose,
but that's because they're same diameter, same count lacing with thin round spokes—
the drive side is actually quite tight.
In other words, it's built to nearly the highest standard possible given those parameters.
You know, maybe it's fine as-is and I don't really need to rebuild it,
is a thought that crossed my mind.
That said, it's true I could get tighter results with different spoke gauges and lacing patterns.
There was a hole on the outer edge like a nail puncture,
but it didn't affect the rim's outer width at that location, didn't penetrate to the inner side,
and there were no dimple-like protrusions, so no real issues.
It's built.
Black half Campagnolo (Campy) 4x lacing.
I'll do the spoke twisting later.
before
work in progress
after
After the rebuild, the drive side spokes are actually heavier.
The non-drive side is slightly lighter, even accounting for the longer spoke length,
but since the total for both sides is roughly the same,
the main weight difference before and after rebuild is the nipple material.
Once I do the spoke twisting, it'll be a few more grams heavier.
If the customer's preference had been silver spokes
and the true stainless was #14 instead of #15,
I would have cut them down from 6-spoke length to 4-spoke length.
Continuing from yesterday.
I'm rebuilding the rear wheel with an Open Pro CD ceramic rim.
FH-7700 32H #15 plain true stainless (super magnetic!)
Laced with Italian lacing pattern.
The nipples are star brass, 3.4mm hex size.
Same as the front hub from yesterday—
the non-pulling spoke holes show marks from the pulling spokes.
Reading this tells me that the previous lacing on this hub was also Italian pattern.
Timeline jumping ahead, but here's the hub flange after disassembling the wheel.
Since the spoke hole phase is offset by one,
all flange holes show spoke marks.
It's unclear whether they intentionally did this
to seat the spoke nipples in fresh flange holes.
The spoke lengths matched on both sides.
The three protrusions (or two if aligned with the slot)
are the identifying mark for #15 nipples.
※These are the positioning and fixing protrusions found on the back of a watch dial.
Like the front wheel, it was centered perfectly with virtually no runout.
The non-drive side felt a bit loose,
but that's because they're same diameter, same count lacing with thin round spokes—
the drive side is actually quite tight.
In other words, it's built to nearly the highest standard possible given those parameters.
You know, maybe it's fine as-is and I don't really need to rebuild it,
is a thought that crossed my mind.
That said, it's true I could get tighter results with different spoke gauges and lacing patterns.
There was a hole on the outer edge like a nail puncture,
but it didn't affect the rim's outer width at that location, didn't penetrate to the inner side,
and there were no dimple-like protrusions, so no real issues.
It's built.
Black half Campagnolo (Campy) 4x lacing.
I'll do the spoke twisting later.
before
work in progress
after
After the rebuild, the drive side spokes are actually heavier.
The non-drive side is slightly lighter, even accounting for the longer spoke length,
but since the total for both sides is roughly the same,
the main weight difference before and after rebuild is the nipple material.
Once I do the spoke twisting, it'll be a few more grams heavier.
If the customer's preference had been silver spokes
and the true stainless was #14 instead of #15,
I would have cut them down from 6-spoke length to 4-spoke length.