Another day with wheels (and so on...).
I rebuilt the rear wheel on the Roval CLX50.
2:1 laced, 24H all Aero Lite straight spokes—
I'm swapping out the non-drive side for CX Sprint spokes.
The front wheel was quite far out of true, so I checked the centering on the rear wheel too, but
while it was off-center, it wasn't anywhere near as bad.
Though the direction of the offset was opposite to what you'd expect from age-related use.
It's built up.
You can pretty clearly see that the spokes on the non-drive side are noticeably thicker than before.
I'll do the spoke twist on the drive side later, but
This time I completely reversed the front-back orientation of the drive-side spokes
compared to the original state.
Sure, they'll end up hidden by the spoke tape anyway, but
what I want you to look at is how with this left-right reversed mixed-diameter lacing,
the tension is higher (= the amount of thread engagement on the nipples changed),
so the wear marks at the intersection of the final crossover
are offset compared to where they are after the rebuild.
The CX Sprint on the non-drive side—
it sticks to the magnet tool used to hold Campagnolo Fulcrum nipples
just enough that it doesn't fall off by its own weight.
It's not a super strong grip though, so if you move the wheel around,
it'll just drop right off.
I've noticed recently that DT's Aero Lite—
at least the version used on Roval wheels—
barely reacts to magnets at all,
and you can't even hang this tool from it magnetically.
In terms of magnetic properties, it's not great.
If these had been butted spokes, I'd recommend switching to CX-RAY,
but since they're straight spokes (machined into heads like eringi mushroom slices),
the risk of spoke breakage is extremely low, so I judged it safe
to just keep them as-is.
Work-wise, I could have just swapped out the non-drive-side spokes,
but I completely disassembled the wheel.
That's partly because I want to say "another day with wheels" and so on...
I won't deny that's a factor,
but I also wanted to apply threadlocker to the spoke threads.
With CLX wheels, the nipples are aluminum and can be turned from the outer edge,
so they usually get reused as-is,
but with CL wheels, the nipples are brass,
so I wanted to swap them for aluminum nipples, which is why I disassemble.
The fact that I'm fully disassembling is clear from the reversed orientation of the drive-side spokes,
but still, some people won't believe it unless they see the rim by itself.
I have the evidence, but I'm under no obligation to show it,
and I have no intention of doing so. Give up.
↑wow this guy's got a bad attitude
Sorry for the wait! Please take a look at this image!
The front rim from the other day!
Today's rear rim!
The rim weight on the CL50/CLX50 is really quite consistent!
↑Stop it already!
I rebuilt the rear wheel on the Roval CLX50.
2:1 laced, 24H all Aero Lite straight spokes—
I'm swapping out the non-drive side for CX Sprint spokes.
The front wheel was quite far out of true, so I checked the centering on the rear wheel too, but
while it was off-center, it wasn't anywhere near as bad.
Though the direction of the offset was opposite to what you'd expect from age-related use.
It's built up.
You can pretty clearly see that the spokes on the non-drive side are noticeably thicker than before.
I'll do the spoke twist on the drive side later, but
This time I completely reversed the front-back orientation of the drive-side spokes
compared to the original state.
Sure, they'll end up hidden by the spoke tape anyway, but
what I want you to look at is how with this left-right reversed mixed-diameter lacing,
the tension is higher (= the amount of thread engagement on the nipples changed),
so the wear marks at the intersection of the final crossover
are offset compared to where they are after the rebuild.
The CX Sprint on the non-drive side—
it sticks to the magnet tool used to hold Campagnolo Fulcrum nipples
just enough that it doesn't fall off by its own weight.
It's not a super strong grip though, so if you move the wheel around,
it'll just drop right off.
I've noticed recently that DT's Aero Lite—
at least the version used on Roval wheels—
barely reacts to magnets at all,
and you can't even hang this tool from it magnetically.
In terms of magnetic properties, it's not great.
If these had been butted spokes, I'd recommend switching to CX-RAY,
but since they're straight spokes (machined into heads like eringi mushroom slices),
the risk of spoke breakage is extremely low, so I judged it safe
to just keep them as-is.
Work-wise, I could have just swapped out the non-drive-side spokes,
but I completely disassembled the wheel.
That's partly because I want to say "another day with wheels" and so on...
I won't deny that's a factor,
but I also wanted to apply threadlocker to the spoke threads.
With CLX wheels, the nipples are aluminum and can be turned from the outer edge,
so they usually get reused as-is,
but with CL wheels, the nipples are brass,
so I wanted to swap them for aluminum nipples, which is why I disassemble.
The fact that I'm fully disassembling is clear from the reversed orientation of the drive-side spokes,
but still, some people won't believe it unless they see the rim by itself.
I have the evidence, but I'm under no obligation to show it,
and I have no intention of doing so. Give up.
↑wow this guy's got a bad attitude
Sorry for the wait! Please take a look at this image!
The front rim from the other day!
Today's rear rim!
The rim weight on the CL50/CLX50 is really quite consistent!
↑Stop it already!