I received a Roval Alpinist CLX from a customer.
It's a bonus wheel from Ethos, but
it's so light that it just doesn't ride well, so they asked me to do something about it.
It came with a rotor and tire, but they've only used it a bit
and it shows almost no signs of use.
There wasn't even any paint chipping at the contact points of the final cross in the tangent lacing.
All-black Aero Lite with 2:1 lacing.
It's a Roval disc brake wheel, but
many people have mentioned that the front wheel especially lacks lateral stiffness.
Built it.
I used a reverse radial lacing as a counterpoint to the different spoke count left and right.
The spokes aren't half CX Sprint... they're not.
They're Meshinotane Code, so I won't write about it here,
but I'll explain it to the customer for this wheel.
I'll finish the bracing later. It's essential if you want to make it a proper wheel.
This isn't the kind of wheel where just changing spoke weight distribution will make a difference.
↑The Aero Lite (and CX-RAY) fit perfectly with the B-groove of Campagnolo's spoke holding tool.
↑However, the replacement spokes don't fit through the B-groove.
I've made a custom tool that widens the B-groove to CX Sprint width,
but these spokes have a slightly different width and shape that doesn't quite match that either.
Still, I have a tool for this spoke type too, so there's no problem.
On another note, with the CLX50 I rebuilt a while back (→here),
I intentionally reversed the spoke orientation on the tangent lacing side from the original
and rebuilt it. The nipple thread count changed,
so the wear mark position shifted, which I noted at the time.
I thought the wire wrapping would hide it, but
it didn't.
However, with black spokes,
when soldering, if I apply flux and heat it,
the paint near the wire wrapping sometimes peels off.
When that happens, I paint over it,
and the wear marks also get painted black in the process, so there's no problem.
It's a bonus wheel from Ethos, but
it's so light that it just doesn't ride well, so they asked me to do something about it.
It came with a rotor and tire, but they've only used it a bit
and it shows almost no signs of use.
There wasn't even any paint chipping at the contact points of the final cross in the tangent lacing.
All-black Aero Lite with 2:1 lacing.
It's a Roval disc brake wheel, but
many people have mentioned that the front wheel especially lacks lateral stiffness.
Built it.
I used a reverse radial lacing as a counterpoint to the different spoke count left and right.
The spokes aren't half CX Sprint... they're not.
They're Meshinotane Code, so I won't write about it here,
but I'll explain it to the customer for this wheel.
I'll finish the bracing later. It's essential if you want to make it a proper wheel.
This isn't the kind of wheel where just changing spoke weight distribution will make a difference.
↑The Aero Lite (and CX-RAY) fit perfectly with the B-groove of Campagnolo's spoke holding tool.
↑However, the replacement spokes don't fit through the B-groove.
I've made a custom tool that widens the B-groove to CX Sprint width,
but these spokes have a slightly different width and shape that doesn't quite match that either.
Still, I have a tool for this spoke type too, so there's no problem.
On another note, with the CLX50 I rebuilt a while back (→here),
I intentionally reversed the spoke orientation on the tangent lacing side from the original
and rebuilt it. The nipple thread count changed,
so the wear mark position shifted, which I noted at the time.
I thought the wire wrapping would hide it, but
it didn't.
However, with black spokes,
when soldering, if I apply flux and heat it,
the paint near the wire wrapping sometimes peels off.
When that happens, I paint over it,
and the wear marks also get painted black in the process, so there's no problem.