More wheels today (and so on).
Continuing from yesterday. I'm rebuilding the Tune in-house rear wheel.
Like the front wheel, it uses a 28H BOOST-standard hub with
all-black race spokes in 6x6 JIS lacing.
I'm planning to rebuild it with black half-comp 4x6 lacing,
but where DT Comp can be cut around 30mm,
with Sapim Race (which has the same diameter at the butted sections),
it's safer to keep the cut to a maximum of 8mm, preferably within 6mm.
This is roughly the same as with CX-RAY spokes.
Race spokes have a longer middle section in the 2.0-1.8-2.0mm
profile by 1.8mm compared to Comp spokes.
I estimate the specific weight of 2.0-1.8-2.0mm butted spokes at roughly 85%,
but when I actually measure Comp spokes, they come in at about 86.5%.
Race spokes are right around 85%, and even calculating from the manufacturer's
stated specs of 260mm 64-spoke set at 363g:
363÷64÷260÷0.0257=0.848828891..., so
84.9% or 85% is about right.
What I'm getting at is that it's impossible to cut the freewheel-side spokes
from 6x6 lacing length down to 4x6 lacing length during rebuild.
As long as I make the non-freewheel side CX-RAY equivalent to half-race/half-comp,
whether it's 4x6 or 6x6 lacing is a minor detail,
so if there had been a condition to reuse spokes as much as possible,
I would've kept the freewheel-side spokes as-is.
But if there's a possibility that after building half-race 6x6 lacing
I might think "hmm... something feels a bit lacking,"
it's better to go with half-comp 4x6 from the start,
so I discarded the spokes on both sides.
Separately, in this case,
the nipple end has custom black race spokes with square anti-rotation flats,
so there's no way to cut even 1mm.
Both the front and rear wheels had spoke lengths on the short side,
but this was possibly a measure to prevent the square part from going too deep
into the spoke holes, which would make it harder to grip with the anti-rotation tool.
Though it doesn't feel like they thought that carefully about the build.
The grip area's color had apparently gotten worn off by the tool,
so they'd repainted it.
Originally, the rim was offset toward the freewheel side.
Earlier I mentioned that Sapim Race can be cut 6mm, but
since this is a custom piece, the 2.0mm diameter section ends
right after the threads—it's a dimension like
"uses a #14 nipple with #15 round spokes."
Built.
28H black half-comp 4x6 JIS lacing.
I'll do the truing later.
These front and rear wheels—from overseas mail order
were sold as complete wheels despite being cheap enough that buying just the hub
would have been nearly the same price. In reality, they're just a hub, rim, and nipple set,
and it's accurate enough to write off the spokes as never having existed from the start,
given how cheap they were.
The freebody is XDR, not XD.
A spacer to convert to XD is also included.
The manufacturer probably found it too tedious to make separate freebodies
for XD-only and XDR versions, but when SRAM releases their next 1x13-speed
MTB groupset, they might make it compatible with what would then be the XDR freebody,
so having XDR might actually be forward-thinking.
Or if road bikes ever went BOOST... don't even say it.
↑seriously, please stop that
Going back in time a bit—here's the rear rim.
It has a Tune sticker just like the front wheel.
Why I'm just straightforwardly posting this here is because
the article value is thin.
I don't obsess much over hub weight,
but Tune hubs have always been light, and unlike
ExtraLight hubs—which sacrifice durability for lightness in a really sketchy way—
they're not some crazy spec.
Lightest weight within a usable range, you could say.
※Having only 2-tooth ratchet pawls on the freebody with
a rubber O-ring to spring them out is legitimately insane
(and that's a compliment).
When I say stuff like this, people naturally get curious about the actual measured hub weight,
but of course I'm not telling.
↑what's wrong with this guy, what a bad attitude
Sorry for the wait!
Please take a look at these images!
↑Nope nope nope!
Continuing from yesterday. I'm rebuilding the Tune in-house rear wheel.
Like the front wheel, it uses a 28H BOOST-standard hub with
all-black race spokes in 6x6 JIS lacing.
I'm planning to rebuild it with black half-comp 4x6 lacing,
but where DT Comp can be cut around 30mm,
with Sapim Race (which has the same diameter at the butted sections),
it's safer to keep the cut to a maximum of 8mm, preferably within 6mm.
This is roughly the same as with CX-RAY spokes.
Race spokes have a longer middle section in the 2.0-1.8-2.0mm
profile by 1.8mm compared to Comp spokes.
I estimate the specific weight of 2.0-1.8-2.0mm butted spokes at roughly 85%,
but when I actually measure Comp spokes, they come in at about 86.5%.
Race spokes are right around 85%, and even calculating from the manufacturer's
stated specs of 260mm 64-spoke set at 363g:
363÷64÷260÷0.0257=0.848828891..., so
84.9% or 85% is about right.
What I'm getting at is that it's impossible to cut the freewheel-side spokes
from 6x6 lacing length down to 4x6 lacing length during rebuild.
As long as I make the non-freewheel side CX-RAY equivalent to half-race/half-comp,
whether it's 4x6 or 6x6 lacing is a minor detail,
so if there had been a condition to reuse spokes as much as possible,
I would've kept the freewheel-side spokes as-is.
But if there's a possibility that after building half-race 6x6 lacing
I might think "hmm... something feels a bit lacking,"
it's better to go with half-comp 4x6 from the start,
so I discarded the spokes on both sides.
Separately, in this case,
the nipple end has custom black race spokes with square anti-rotation flats,
so there's no way to cut even 1mm.
Both the front and rear wheels had spoke lengths on the short side,
but this was possibly a measure to prevent the square part from going too deep
into the spoke holes, which would make it harder to grip with the anti-rotation tool.
The grip area's color had apparently gotten worn off by the tool,
so they'd repainted it.
Originally, the rim was offset toward the freewheel side.
Earlier I mentioned that Sapim Race can be cut 6mm, but
since this is a custom piece, the 2.0mm diameter section ends
right after the threads—it's a dimension like
"uses a #14 nipple with #15 round spokes."
Built.
28H black half-comp 4x6 JIS lacing.
I'll do the truing later.
These front and rear wheels—
were sold as complete wheels despite being cheap enough that buying just the hub
would have been nearly the same price. In reality, they're just a hub, rim, and nipple set,
and it's accurate enough to write off the spokes as never having existed from the start,
given how cheap they were.
The freebody is XDR, not XD.
A spacer to convert to XD is also included.
The manufacturer probably found it too tedious to make separate freebodies
for XD-only and XDR versions, but when SRAM releases their next 1x13-speed
MTB groupset, they might make it compatible with what would then be the XDR freebody,
so having XDR might actually be forward-thinking.
Or if road bikes ever went BOOST... don't even say it.
↑seriously, please stop that
Going back in time a bit—here's the rear rim.
It has a Tune sticker just like the front wheel.
Why I'm just straightforwardly posting this here is because
the article value is thin.
I don't obsess much over hub weight,
but Tune hubs have always been light, and unlike
ExtraLight hubs—which sacrifice durability for lightness in a really sketchy way—
they're not some crazy spec.
Lightest weight within a usable range, you could say.
※Having only 2-tooth ratchet pawls on the freebody with
a rubber O-ring to spring them out is legitimately insane
(and that's a compliment).
When I say stuff like this, people naturally get curious about the actual measured hub weight,
but of course I'm not telling.
↑what's wrong with this guy, what a bad attitude
Sorry for the wait!
Please take a look at these images!
↑Nope nope nope!