A customer brought in a pair of front and rear wheels
from a ZIPP 404 Firecrest (WO rim specification).
These are rim brake wheels from a while back.
Or rather, disc brake wheels probably didn't even exist at that time.
The customer wanted an inspection and spoke re-tensioning on the rear wheel.
They asked about a spot where the rim's outer edge has a slight peel,
but there's no real problem with it.
I adjusted the brake shoe positioning slightly toward the inner edge.
This rim has an inverted taper shape, narrowing toward the outer edge beyond the brake zone,
so the shoes never contact the outermost part of the rim.
↑By the way, this is the rim from the Shamal Ultra DB I mentioned before—
it also has an inverted taper shape.
The photo shows the gap between the rim and the dial gauge probe,
but I should note that the structure of this truing stand doesn't guarantee
perfect parallel alignment between the rim side and the gauge face.
The front wheel was perfectly centered, and while there was slight runout,
the spoke tension was already quite high, so further tightening
wasn't really necessary—or even possible.
Now for the rear wheel.
Like the front, the spokes are all-black CX Sprint.
The rear wheel uses a left-right 2-cross lacing pattern
where radial and crossed spokes alternate between the large and small flanges,
creating a reverse-crossed final pattern.
↑Freewheel side
↑Non-freewheel side
These images are from a previous post showing
a 404 tubular hub from a different job,
but looking at the first cross,
you can clearly see large flange spokes crossing with large flange spokes
and small flange spokes with small flange spokes.
Technically, the spoke tension differs between large and small flange spokes,
but this is considered acceptable.
There's a gouge-like mark on the freewheel body splines—
this is evidence of the top gear being installed at the wrong phase
and then the lockring being tightened.
The rear wheel was also perfectly centered, and except for fine truing,
the spokes were tensioned so tightly that I couldn't intentionally tighten them further.
They asked me to check the hub bearings,
and both front and rear hubs were in good condition.
I re-tensioned the spokes on the non-freewheel side only.
I didn't re-tension the freewheel side because I judged it unnecessary.
from a ZIPP 404 Firecrest (WO rim specification).
These are rim brake wheels from a while back.
Or rather, disc brake wheels probably didn't even exist at that time.
The customer wanted an inspection and spoke re-tensioning on the rear wheel.
They asked about a spot where the rim's outer edge has a slight peel,
but there's no real problem with it.
I adjusted the brake shoe positioning slightly toward the inner edge.
This rim has an inverted taper shape, narrowing toward the outer edge beyond the brake zone,
so the shoes never contact the outermost part of the rim.
↑By the way, this is the rim from the Shamal Ultra DB I mentioned before—
it also has an inverted taper shape.
The photo shows the gap between the rim and the dial gauge probe,
but I should note that the structure of this truing stand doesn't guarantee
perfect parallel alignment between the rim side and the gauge face.
The front wheel was perfectly centered, and while there was slight runout,
the spoke tension was already quite high, so further tightening
wasn't really necessary—or even possible.
Now for the rear wheel.
Like the front, the spokes are all-black CX Sprint.
The rear wheel uses a left-right 2-cross lacing pattern
where radial and crossed spokes alternate between the large and small flanges,
creating a reverse-crossed final pattern.
↑Freewheel side
↑Non-freewheel side
These images are from a previous post showing
a 404 tubular hub from a different job,
but looking at the first cross,
you can clearly see large flange spokes crossing with large flange spokes
and small flange spokes with small flange spokes.
Technically, the spoke tension differs between large and small flange spokes,
but this is considered acceptable.
There's a gouge-like mark on the freewheel body splines—
this is evidence of the top gear being installed at the wrong phase
and then the lockring being tightened.
The rear wheel was also perfectly centered, and except for fine truing,
the spokes were tensioned so tightly that I couldn't intentionally tighten them further.
They asked me to check the hub bearings,
and both front and rear hubs were in good condition.
I re-tensioned the spokes on the non-freewheel side only.
I didn't re-tension the freewheel side because I judged it unnecessary.