A customer brought in a pair of Eurus wheels for inspection.
They wanted a full check-up.
Let me start with the front wheel, but first—
The EURUS wheel, from the early days when Japanese distributors' translation materials came out,
was written as "Yūrasu," but
when it comes to the steel spoke era models,
I make a distinction and call them "Eurus."
By the way, those translation materials
weren't from some Campagnolo expert distributor,
but from someone working at the import agent at the time,
and the BORA is consistently written as "Bora."
NUCLEON is "Nukurion," but
in magazines back then it was sometimes written as "Nukleon,"
and people who called it "Nukleon" tended to also call this one "Eurus."
The customer's letter about this wheel
had "Eurus" written on it,
so I figured they must have read my past post on the same topic
and matched their terminology to mine.
The hubs from this era have a "hook-type" flange design for straight spokes.
The hole that cuts right to the edge of the hub flange
serves as a grip point for removing the dust cap, so
the risk of breaking the easily-fractured dust cap
is very low, which is nice.
The side in the image has the bearing adjustment locknut,
so it doesn't affect the wheel's performance,
but technically it's the right side.
When the dust cap is installed, the reference point for
determining the wheel's left-right orientation at that spot is lost, but
the C-ring that serves as the cap for the grease hole in the center of the hub body
has Campagnolo lettering stamped on it
positioned so it reads correctly when viewed from the right side.
Or rather, it was already like that originally.
The evenly-spaced black lines on the C-ring
are just spokes reflecting in the surface.
↑This is borrowed from a past post—
the front wheel of a Neutron Ultra,
but the hub flange is "through-type,"
so there's no initial grip point for carefully lifting the dust cap,
and the break risk is somewhat higher.
Well, I always keep spares in stock for when I mess up.
Since the hub body has no grease hole either,
unless you install a quick-release or mount a tire with a rotation direction specified,
about the only way to determine left-right orientation
is if lettering is printed on the rim tape.
So I applied "this is the right side" tape,
and there was a comment at the time pointing out something about Migī.
They were paying close attention.
The front wheel's rotation felt rough, so
I pulled the hub axle and checked the ball races for spalling.
Everything looked fine, so I greased it up and reassembled it.
The rim was very slightly offset to the right,
but when I later did the truing, there was one noticeable runout in one spot, so
I must have just happened to place the centering gauge near that phase,
and the rim was actually centered everywhere else.
When centering, if I unconsciously just did the truing
in the tightening direction,
by the time the runout was gone, the centering had automatically come out perfect.
Knowing that tightening the left-side nipple is the tensioning direction
means I can avoid having to do double work,
so checking the preliminary center was worthwhile.
Now for the rear wheel.
Compared to later models, it has a small flange,
so the proportion of rest phase is very large.
G3 lacing is a type of mixed-handedness lacing,
so it has tremendous effect in reducing left-right spoke tension differences,
but according to the distributor's translation materials I mentioned earlier,
it says something like "by reducing the free-side spoke tension,
the load on the rim becomes smaller,"
which suggests the intent was to bring the non-free side tension closer to the free side,
rather than the other way around.
But compared to contemporary left-right same-number rear wheels
like the Nucleon
(even though Nucleon has quite extreme mixed-diameter lacing,
even accounting for that)
this Eurus's free-side tension isn't particularly low, and
no matter how I look at it, the wheel was built with the non-free side pulled up.
Unlike the front wheel, the hub rotation was clean,
so I just confirmed there was no deformation in the freewheel pawl springs
and didn't disassemble it further by pulling the axle.
The preliminary center was dead-on, and I corrected several spots of minor runout.
The Eurus rim height is higher than Nucleon's, so
naturally the rim weight is heavier than Nucleon's.
…at least for the front rim.
↑This is looking into the Neutron Ultra rear rim through the valve hole,
and because it's a low-profile offset rim,
there's a reinforcement wall inside the rim.
By the way, the left side of the image is the wheel's right side (free side).
Because of this, the Nucleon rear rim is
heavier than the Eurus rear rim, and in my opinion,
for aluminum rim models, the strongest combination of that era would be
Nucleon front, Eurus rear,
but Campagnolo, then and now,
doesn't sell wheels individually for front and rear,
so to do that you'd need to buy full sets of both.
A long time ago, a mail-order shop from a certain permanently neutral country
sold a set with a Fulcrum Speed 40 front wheel and
Speed 55 rear wheel together, but
if they were pulling those from originally matching front-and-rear sets,
it would be hard to imagine the leftover wheels (especially the 55 front) would sell,
which means they must have originally ordered that combination directly from Fulcrum.
For that to be possible, the likely reason would be "because we're building complete bikes that way,"
but if that were the case, Japanese distributors could also
special-order different rim heights for front and rear,
and nowadays sets like Bora WTO 45/60 should sell fine—
complete bike manufacturers supplying their extras…
"Where did the 55 front wheel and 40 rear wheel go?"
"…I hate inquisitive crabs like you."
They wanted a full check-up.
Let me start with the front wheel, but first—
The EURUS wheel, from the early days when Japanese distributors' translation materials came out,
was written as "Yūrasu," but
when it comes to the steel spoke era models,
I make a distinction and call them "Eurus."
By the way, those translation materials
weren't from some Campagnolo expert distributor,
but from someone working at the import agent at the time,
and the BORA is consistently written as "Bora."
NUCLEON is "Nukurion," but
in magazines back then it was sometimes written as "Nukleon,"
and people who called it "Nukleon" tended to also call this one "Eurus."
The customer's letter about this wheel
had "Eurus" written on it,
so I figured they must have read my past post on the same topic
and matched their terminology to mine.
The hubs from this era have a "hook-type" flange design for straight spokes.
The hole that cuts right to the edge of the hub flange
serves as a grip point for removing the dust cap, so
the risk of breaking the easily-fractured dust cap
is very low, which is nice.
The side in the image has the bearing adjustment locknut,
so it doesn't affect the wheel's performance,
but technically it's the right side.
When the dust cap is installed, the reference point for
determining the wheel's left-right orientation at that spot is lost, but
the C-ring that serves as the cap for the grease hole in the center of the hub body
has Campagnolo lettering stamped on it
positioned so it reads correctly when viewed from the right side.
Or rather, it was already like that originally.
The evenly-spaced black lines on the C-ring
are just spokes reflecting in the surface.
↑This is borrowed from a past post—
the front wheel of a Neutron Ultra,
but the hub flange is "through-type,"
so there's no initial grip point for carefully lifting the dust cap,
and the break risk is somewhat higher.
Well, I always keep spares in stock for when I mess up.
Since the hub body has no grease hole either,
unless you install a quick-release or mount a tire with a rotation direction specified,
about the only way to determine left-right orientation
is if lettering is printed on the rim tape.
So I applied "this is the right side" tape,
and there was a comment at the time pointing out something about Migī.
They were paying close attention.
The front wheel's rotation felt rough, so
I pulled the hub axle and checked the ball races for spalling.
Everything looked fine, so I greased it up and reassembled it.
The rim was very slightly offset to the right,
but when I later did the truing, there was one noticeable runout in one spot, so
I must have just happened to place the centering gauge near that phase,
and the rim was actually centered everywhere else.
When centering, if I unconsciously just did the truing
in the tightening direction,
by the time the runout was gone, the centering had automatically come out perfect.
Knowing that tightening the left-side nipple is the tensioning direction
means I can avoid having to do double work,
so checking the preliminary center was worthwhile.
Now for the rear wheel.
Compared to later models, it has a small flange,
so the proportion of rest phase is very large.
G3 lacing is a type of mixed-handedness lacing,
so it has tremendous effect in reducing left-right spoke tension differences,
but according to the distributor's translation materials I mentioned earlier,
it says something like "by reducing the free-side spoke tension,
the load on the rim becomes smaller,"
which suggests the intent was to bring the non-free side tension closer to the free side,
rather than the other way around.
But compared to contemporary left-right same-number rear wheels
like the Nucleon
(even though Nucleon has quite extreme mixed-diameter lacing,
even accounting for that)
this Eurus's free-side tension isn't particularly low, and
no matter how I look at it, the wheel was built with the non-free side pulled up.
Unlike the front wheel, the hub rotation was clean,
so I just confirmed there was no deformation in the freewheel pawl springs
and didn't disassemble it further by pulling the axle.
The preliminary center was dead-on, and I corrected several spots of minor runout.
The Eurus rim height is higher than Nucleon's, so
naturally the rim weight is heavier than Nucleon's.
…at least for the front rim.
↑This is looking into the Neutron Ultra rear rim through the valve hole,
and because it's a low-profile offset rim,
there's a reinforcement wall inside the rim.
By the way, the left side of the image is the wheel's right side (free side).
Because of this, the Nucleon rear rim is
heavier than the Eurus rear rim, and in my opinion,
for aluminum rim models, the strongest combination of that era would be
Nucleon front, Eurus rear,
but Campagnolo, then and now,
doesn't sell wheels individually for front and rear,
so to do that you'd need to buy full sets of both.
A long time ago, a mail-order shop from a certain permanently neutral country
sold a set with a Fulcrum Speed 40 front wheel and
Speed 55 rear wheel together, but
if they were pulling those from originally matching front-and-rear sets,
it would be hard to imagine the leftover wheels (especially the 55 front) would sell,
which means they must have originally ordered that combination directly from Fulcrum.
For that to be possible, the likely reason would be "because we're building complete bikes that way,"
but if that were the case, Japanese distributors could also
special-order different rim heights for front and rear,
and nowadays sets like Bora WTO 45/60 should sell fine—
complete bike manufacturers supplying their extras…
"Where did the 55 front wheel and 40 rear wheel go?"
"…I hate inquisitive crabs like you."