Another day, another wheel (etc.).
A customer left me a rear wheel built with a 26-inch HE rim (ALEXRIMS DA16) and
a 135mm quick-release hub.
It's got Michelin slick tires on it, so at first glance it looks like
some old MTB wheel being used for street riding... but actually
this is a recumbent rear wheel.
The hub and spokes are unmarked,
32H, 14-gauge plain spokes in JIS lacing pattern.
The freewheel body on this rear hub is broken,
and it occasionally freewheels forward (the pedals slip),
so I decided to swap it out for a Shimano hub.
With a Shimano hub, that problem hardly ever occurs, and
even if it does, you can just replace the freewheel body.
There was a similar situation not long ago, but that was a different case (→here).
Wheels that use long nipples even though they don't need to
typically have spokes on the shorter side.
Yeah, they're clearly short, but I'm going to reuse them anyway.
The hub dimensions before and after rebuilding are pretty much the same.
The rim had drifted toward the freewheel side.
It's shifted in the opposite direction from typical wear drift, so
either it was off to begin with, or someone did some spoke-twisting hop-and-wish truing on it.
I disassembled the wheel.
I transferred only the outpokes to the left and right flanges of the new hub.
When transferring them, I wiped the spokes clean with parts cleaner,
then applied threadlocker to the nipple threads.
Then I did the same with the inpokes.
The original wheel apparently had some radial runout too.
Of the two dark wear marks on the rim,
the outer one is closer to the rim edge
in the upper image.
Until this wheel is used again,
you can observe the wear marks dancing up and down
within the rotating rim's brake zone.
I chased down both lateral and radial runout and got the center dialed in.
All built up.
The hub is an FH-T3000, and while the hub barrel has SHIMANO printed on it,
nowhere on the box does it say "Acera," which is supposedly the nominal grade.
The hub in the linked article was an M4000-series Alivio disc brake hub,
model FH-M4050, but this one is designated for trekking,
so the letter before the numbers is T—hence T3000.
32H, 6×6 Italian lacing pattern.
When I transferred the spokes to the new hub, I switched from right-drop to left-drop,
which means the original wheel was in JIS pattern.
Since it's a rim brake rear wheel, I'm building it in Italian lacing.
I considered cutting the freewheel-side spoke length to be flush with the nipple end
while I was at it, but I kept the lacing pattern as is.
This rim looks like it has no left-right orientation at first glance,
but where the left and right decals connect to hide the rim seam,
there's a specific direction.
I went with DT 12mm brass nipples.
I thought the original long brass nipples might be 3.4mm flats,
but they turned out to be the same 3.2mm flats as Sapim and DT.
The original nipples looked black, but
it was just silver brass that had gotten dirty.
A customer left me a rear wheel built with a 26-inch HE rim (ALEXRIMS DA16) and
a 135mm quick-release hub.
It's got Michelin slick tires on it, so at first glance it looks like
some old MTB wheel being used for street riding... but actually
this is a recumbent rear wheel.
The hub and spokes are unmarked,
32H, 14-gauge plain spokes in JIS lacing pattern.
The freewheel body on this rear hub is broken,
and it occasionally freewheels forward (the pedals slip),
so I decided to swap it out for a Shimano hub.
With a Shimano hub, that problem hardly ever occurs, and
even if it does, you can just replace the freewheel body.
There was a similar situation not long ago, but that was a different case (→here).
Wheels that use long nipples even though they don't need to
typically have spokes on the shorter side.
Yeah, they're clearly short, but I'm going to reuse them anyway.
The hub dimensions before and after rebuilding are pretty much the same.
The rim had drifted toward the freewheel side.
It's shifted in the opposite direction from typical wear drift, so
either it was off to begin with, or someone did some spoke-twisting hop-and-wish truing on it.
I disassembled the wheel.
I transferred only the outpokes to the left and right flanges of the new hub.
When transferring them, I wiped the spokes clean with parts cleaner,
then applied threadlocker to the nipple threads.
Then I did the same with the inpokes.
The original wheel apparently had some radial runout too.
Of the two dark wear marks on the rim,
the outer one is closer to the rim edge
in the upper image.
Until this wheel is used again,
you can observe the wear marks dancing up and down
within the rotating rim's brake zone.
I chased down both lateral and radial runout and got the center dialed in.
All built up.
The hub is an FH-T3000, and while the hub barrel has SHIMANO printed on it,
nowhere on the box does it say "Acera," which is supposedly the nominal grade.
The hub in the linked article was an M4000-series Alivio disc brake hub,
model FH-M4050, but this one is designated for trekking,
so the letter before the numbers is T—hence T3000.
32H, 6×6 Italian lacing pattern.
When I transferred the spokes to the new hub, I switched from right-drop to left-drop,
which means the original wheel was in JIS pattern.
Since it's a rim brake rear wheel, I'm building it in Italian lacing.
I considered cutting the freewheel-side spoke length to be flush with the nipple end
while I was at it, but I kept the lacing pattern as is.
This rim looks like it has no left-right orientation at first glance,
but where the left and right decals connect to hide the rim seam,
there's a specific direction.
I went with DT 12mm brass nipples.
I thought the original long brass nipples might be 3.4mm flats,
but they turned out to be the same 3.2mm flats as Sapim and DT.
The original nipples looked black, but
it was just silver brass that had gotten dirty.