Today it's wheels again (etc.).
I received a rear wheel from a customer built with a 26-inch HE rim (ALEXRIMS DA16) and
a 135mm-wide quick-release hub.
It's wearing Michelin slick tires, and at first glance it looks like
an old MTB wheel being used for city riding, but actually
it's the rear wheel of a recumbent bike.
The hub and spokes are unmarked,
built as 32H, 14-gauge plain spokes in JIS lacing pattern.
This rear hub's freewheel body is broken,
and occasionally it spins forward (pedaling feels like it slips),
so I decided to replace the hub with a Shimano one.
With a Shimano hub, that problem rarely happens,
and even if it does, it can be handled by just replacing the freewheel body.
I had a similar situation a little while ago, but this is a different case (→here).
Wheels that use long nipples even though there's no real need
typically have shorter spokes.
They're clearly short, but I'm forcing the reuse anyway.
The dimensions of the new hub are essentially the same as the old one.
The rim was offset toward the non-freewheel side.
Since it's offset in the opposite direction from typical wear-related drift,
it was either misaligned from the start or someone played around with spoke truing on it.
I disassembled the wheel.
I transferred only the non-freewheel spokes to the left and right flanges of the new hub.
When transferring, I wiped the spokes clean with parts cleaner first,
then applied thread-locking compound to the threads.
Then I did the same for the freewheel-side spokes.
The original wheel had quite a bit of radial runout too.
Of the two dark wear marks, the outer one's
distance from the rim outline
is closer in the upper image.
Until the wheel spins again, I can observe
wear marks dancing up and down within the brake zone of the rotating rim.
I trued the radial and lateral runout and got it centered.
All built up.
The hub is an FH-T3000,
and while the SHIMANO marking on the hub shell is fine,
there's no Acera designation anywhere on the box, despite that being the nominal grade.
The hub in the article I linked earlier was an M4000-series Alivio disc brake hub, FH-M4050,
but since this hub is designated for trekking,
the letter before the number is T, making it T3000.
32H, 6-cross Italian lacing.
When I transferred the spokes to the hub, I switched from right-hand to left-hand lacing,
so the original wheel was JIS laced.
Since it's a rim brake rear wheel, I'm using Italian lacing.
I considered switching to 4-cross lacing and cutting the freewheel-side spoke length
flush with the nipple end face while I was at it,
but I kept the same lacing pattern.
This rim looks like it has no left-right orientation at first glance,
but where the left and right stickers are connected to hide the rim joint,
there is a specific orientation.
I used DT 12mm brass nipples.
The original long brass nipples looked like they might be 3.4mm wrench-size,
but they turned out to be the same 3.2mm as Sapim and DT nipples.
The original nipples looked black, but
they were just silver brass that had gotten dirty.
I received a rear wheel from a customer built with a 26-inch HE rim (ALEXRIMS DA16) and
a 135mm-wide quick-release hub.
It's wearing Michelin slick tires, and at first glance it looks like
an old MTB wheel being used for city riding, but actually
it's the rear wheel of a recumbent bike.
The hub and spokes are unmarked,
built as 32H, 14-gauge plain spokes in JIS lacing pattern.
This rear hub's freewheel body is broken,
and occasionally it spins forward (pedaling feels like it slips),
so I decided to replace the hub with a Shimano one.
With a Shimano hub, that problem rarely happens,
and even if it does, it can be handled by just replacing the freewheel body.
I had a similar situation a little while ago, but this is a different case (→here).
Wheels that use long nipples even though there's no real need
typically have shorter spokes.
They're clearly short, but I'm forcing the reuse anyway.
The dimensions of the new hub are essentially the same as the old one.
The rim was offset toward the non-freewheel side.
Since it's offset in the opposite direction from typical wear-related drift,
it was either misaligned from the start or someone played around with spoke truing on it.
I disassembled the wheel.
I transferred only the non-freewheel spokes to the left and right flanges of the new hub.
When transferring, I wiped the spokes clean with parts cleaner first,
then applied thread-locking compound to the threads.
Then I did the same for the freewheel-side spokes.
The original wheel had quite a bit of radial runout too.
Of the two dark wear marks, the outer one's
distance from the rim outline
is closer in the upper image.
Until the wheel spins again, I can observe
wear marks dancing up and down within the brake zone of the rotating rim.
I trued the radial and lateral runout and got it centered.
All built up.
The hub is an FH-T3000,
and while the SHIMANO marking on the hub shell is fine,
there's no Acera designation anywhere on the box, despite that being the nominal grade.
The hub in the article I linked earlier was an M4000-series Alivio disc brake hub, FH-M4050,
but since this hub is designated for trekking,
the letter before the number is T, making it T3000.
32H, 6-cross Italian lacing.
When I transferred the spokes to the hub, I switched from right-hand to left-hand lacing,
so the original wheel was JIS laced.
Since it's a rim brake rear wheel, I'm using Italian lacing.
I considered switching to 4-cross lacing and cutting the freewheel-side spoke length
flush with the nipple end face while I was at it,
but I kept the same lacing pattern.
This rim looks like it has no left-right orientation at first glance,
but where the left and right stickers are connected to hide the rim joint,
there is a specific orientation.
I used DT 12mm brass nipples.
The original long brass nipples looked like they might be 3.4mm wrench-size,
but they turned out to be the same 3.2mm as Sapim and DT nipples.
The original nipples looked black, but
they were just silver brass that had gotten dirty.