Wheels again today (and so on).
A customer left me with a Colima 47mm tubular rim.
"47mm" is a model name, not a generic term.
Naturally the rim height is 47mm,
and there are different models with 32mm and 58mm rim heights,
with current models also in 32mm, 47mm, and 58mm configurations,
but while the rim width is 26mm on current models,
this rim is from a few generations back
so it's 19.8mm wide.
This rim comes both as a rim-only sale
and as complete wheelsets with alternating hole drilling patterns,
but this particular rim came to me disassembled from a customer who had it as
a complete rear wheel with evenly-spaced rim holes.
They want me to build a rear wheel with this rim and
a Campagnolo Neutron Ultra hub.
Built it.
The freeside uses DT Champion #14 plain straight spokes,
and the non-freeside uses CX Sprint straight spokes.
The cap on the left side of the hub shell isn't missing.
I removed it as a precaution since frequent removal could crack it,
though we have spares in stock anyway
This combination of rim and straight-spoke hub
had the potential to result in a wheel that wouldn't look right.
↑This is the matching front wheel,
which I took in for inspection.
No centering issues, just minor runout.
Anyway, from the valve hole,
clockwise to the next rim hole's spoke:
It comes out from the far flange from my viewpoint.
Since the vast majority of wheels and rims have holes drilled this way,
I call this a normal rim.
The reverse of this is an inverted rim.
Rim brake Racing Zeros and
Bora front wheels before going wide are inverted rims.
Old Colima rims were also inverted.
It's possible that the original Bora using Colima-made rims
led to subsequent Campagnolo complete wheelsets
adopting inverted rim specs.
Colima's rim holes for internal nipples
have quite a steep drilling angle,
and you can't build a wheel against the hole's directional orientation.
↑This is a Colima rim from several generations
before the current one, but
when you compare them side by side, both are 18H,
so the rim hole spacing is the same and the drilling direction is the same.
In other words, this older Colima rim is also a normal rim.
Now, when I line up this 24H rim from before building
with my partner's front wheel aligned by valve hole position:
↑It looks like this.
The drilling direction is mirror-symmetric on either side of the valve hole.
So this rear wheel rim is an inverted rim.
If the hub for straight spokes had been designed with
left-right tangent lacing,
when building the wheel according to the rim hole drilling,
(actually with this rim you can't even build it against the drilling)
the valve hole position would inevitably end up
not between spoke bundles but within them.
This didn't happen because this hub had
radial lacing on one side (the non-freeside).
From the valve hole, clockwise to the
spoke in the next rim hole coming from
the near-side flange from my viewpoint—it's an inverted rim.
With an inverted rim, the valve hole position
is one of the two spots marked with blue tape on the rim in the image above.
If you offset the relationship between the non-freeside flange
and rim hole by one position,
the final tangent crossing on the freeside
would span the valve hole,
so you need to either pre-assemble starting from the freeside
or carefully ensure the crossing doesn't span it.
With a straight-spoke hub with forced left-right tangent lacing,
the valve hole position inevitably ends up
at one of the spots marked with yellow tape in the image above.
With a generic hub for bladed spokes,
if you reverse the initial right-drop or left-drop
through the hub flange compared to a normal rim,
you can build left-right tangent lacing
with the valve hole position looking right.
44 Italian lacing drops left,
but with 46 lacing it drops right,
though that's for normal rims,
so with inverted rim 46 Italian lacing
it drops right.
As for the actual weight of the rim,
my personal archive is all I need,
so I have no intention of telling you.
↑wow this guy's got a bad attitude
Sorrryyy for the wait!
Pleassse look at this image!
↑Stop it already!
A customer left me with a Colima 47mm tubular rim.
"47mm" is a model name, not a generic term.
Naturally the rim height is 47mm,
and there are different models with 32mm and 58mm rim heights,
with current models also in 32mm, 47mm, and 58mm configurations,
but while the rim width is 26mm on current models,
this rim is from a few generations back
so it's 19.8mm wide.
This rim comes both as a rim-only sale
and as complete wheelsets with alternating hole drilling patterns,
but this particular rim came to me disassembled from a customer who had it as
a complete rear wheel with evenly-spaced rim holes.
They want me to build a rear wheel with this rim and
a Campagnolo Neutron Ultra hub.
Built it.
The freeside uses DT Champion #14 plain straight spokes,
and the non-freeside uses CX Sprint straight spokes.
The cap on the left side of the hub shell isn't missing.
I removed it as a precaution since frequent removal could crack it,
This combination of rim and straight-spoke hub
had the potential to result in a wheel that wouldn't look right.
↑This is the matching front wheel,
which I took in for inspection.
No centering issues, just minor runout.
Anyway, from the valve hole,
clockwise to the next rim hole's spoke:
It comes out from the far flange from my viewpoint.
Since the vast majority of wheels and rims have holes drilled this way,
I call this a normal rim.
The reverse of this is an inverted rim.
Rim brake Racing Zeros and
Bora front wheels before going wide are inverted rims.
Old Colima rims were also inverted.
It's possible that the original Bora using Colima-made rims
led to subsequent Campagnolo complete wheelsets
adopting inverted rim specs.
Colima's rim holes for internal nipples
have quite a steep drilling angle,
and you can't build a wheel against the hole's directional orientation.
↑This is a Colima rim from several generations
before the current one, but
when you compare them side by side, both are 18H,
so the rim hole spacing is the same and the drilling direction is the same.
In other words, this older Colima rim is also a normal rim.
Now, when I line up this 24H rim from before building
with my partner's front wheel aligned by valve hole position:
↑It looks like this.
The drilling direction is mirror-symmetric on either side of the valve hole.
So this rear wheel rim is an inverted rim.
If the hub for straight spokes had been designed with
left-right tangent lacing,
when building the wheel according to the rim hole drilling,
(actually with this rim you can't even build it against the drilling)
the valve hole position would inevitably end up
not between spoke bundles but within them.
This didn't happen because this hub had
radial lacing on one side (the non-freeside).
From the valve hole, clockwise to the
spoke in the next rim hole coming from
the near-side flange from my viewpoint—it's an inverted rim.
With an inverted rim, the valve hole position
is one of the two spots marked with blue tape on the rim in the image above.
If you offset the relationship between the non-freeside flange
and rim hole by one position,
the final tangent crossing on the freeside
would span the valve hole,
so you need to either pre-assemble starting from the freeside
or carefully ensure the crossing doesn't span it.
With a straight-spoke hub with forced left-right tangent lacing,
the valve hole position inevitably ends up
at one of the spots marked with yellow tape in the image above.
With a generic hub for bladed spokes,
if you reverse the initial right-drop or left-drop
through the hub flange compared to a normal rim,
you can build left-right tangent lacing
with the valve hole position looking right.
44 Italian lacing drops left,
but with 46 lacing it drops right,
though that's for normal rims,
so with inverted rim 46 Italian lacing
it drops right.
As for the actual weight of the rim,
my personal archive is all I need,
so I have no intention of telling you.
↑wow this guy's got a bad attitude
Sorrryyy for the wait!
Pleassse look at this image!
↑Stop it already!