Another day, another wheel (and so on).
I rebuilt the rear wheel on a Colima "Aero" aero rim.
The rim, spokes, and hub are all unmistakably Colima,
but it came with a sticker from a complete bike brand
(not the customer—the manufacturer had applied it).
Normally that would be a job for my label-removal specialist, but since the customer gave me the go-ahead,
I got every last bit of stubborn adhesive residue off.
Compared to Nomura Lab Wheel #2, this was child's play.
So from here on out, this is "the Colima Aero."
The reason it was brought in was "it feels a bit mushy when riding."
It's not just because the non-drive side is laced radial,
but looking at the spokes, the drive side is loose too.
I can say with certainty that it's below Colima's factory tension.
This wheel's current owner isn't the original one—
it was originally heavily used by a pro cyclist (or rather, a pro team),
so it likely got this way from years of hard use.
The flange width looks narrow, but it's actually not that tight.
It just looks that way because the shaft on the left side of the hub body is thin.
It's a high-low flange, but the low side on the non-drive is so remarkably small
that it's more high-low than it looks.
Apart from the non-drive side being radially laced, the hub dimensions aren't bad at all.
The spoke tension is completely below the initial value, so I could've just tried retensioning,
but in the end we went with a rebuild using a Tni Evo hub.
The rim hole centering on this Colima rim is intense.
Plus the interior of the rim is filled with what looks like urethane,
and the directionality of the nipples and spokes is quite restricted,
so you literally can't assemble it with the hole centering reversed.
The spoke in the rim hole next to the valve hole—which flange it comes from—
the left-right hole centering is reversed compared to a normal rim.
This is what I call a reverse rim on this blog.
The previous lacing was reverse Italian, so I wanted to go with Italian lacing,
but for a 24H four-cross lacing, threading the spokes becomes a "right drop."
Normal Italian lacing (in the case of left-right same-side lacing) is left drop.
With a reverse rim, this left-right drop orientation reverses, so
for a four-cross reverse rim lacing,
"left drop reversed to right drop reversed to left drop" is the answer.
The spokes are semi-competition on the drive side (DT Competition) and CX-RAY on the non-drive side.
I went with black spokes for the rear wheel because the front wheel already has black spokes and I'm going to retension it,
so I wanted to avoid the front and rear having different spoke colors.
This hub is all-inpoke lacing. Makes sense, since it's a hooked design.
So why is the hole centering different front and rear...?
(They're mirror images of each other.)
With left-right radial lacing, there's no particular trick to threading them through.
```
I rebuilt the rear wheel on a Colima "Aero" aero rim.
The rim, spokes, and hub are all unmistakably Colima,
but it came with a sticker from a complete bike brand
(not the customer—the manufacturer had applied it).
Normally that would be a job for my label-removal specialist, but since the customer gave me the go-ahead,
I got every last bit of stubborn adhesive residue off.
Compared to Nomura Lab Wheel #2, this was child's play.
So from here on out, this is "the Colima Aero."
The reason it was brought in was "it feels a bit mushy when riding."
It's not just because the non-drive side is laced radial,
but looking at the spokes, the drive side is loose too.
I can say with certainty that it's below Colima's factory tension.
This wheel's current owner isn't the original one—
it was originally heavily used by a pro cyclist (or rather, a pro team),
so it likely got this way from years of hard use.
The flange width looks narrow, but it's actually not that tight.
It just looks that way because the shaft on the left side of the hub body is thin.
It's a high-low flange, but the low side on the non-drive is so remarkably small
that it's more high-low than it looks.
Apart from the non-drive side being radially laced, the hub dimensions aren't bad at all.
The spoke tension is completely below the initial value, so I could've just tried retensioning,
but in the end we went with a rebuild using a Tni Evo hub.
The rim hole centering on this Colima rim is intense.
Plus the interior of the rim is filled with what looks like urethane,
and the directionality of the nipples and spokes is quite restricted,
so you literally can't assemble it with the hole centering reversed.
The spoke in the rim hole next to the valve hole—which flange it comes from—
the left-right hole centering is reversed compared to a normal rim.
This is what I call a reverse rim on this blog.
The previous lacing was reverse Italian, so I wanted to go with Italian lacing,
but for a 24H four-cross lacing, threading the spokes becomes a "right drop."
Normal Italian lacing (in the case of left-right same-side lacing) is left drop.
With a reverse rim, this left-right drop orientation reverses, so
for a four-cross reverse rim lacing,
"left drop reversed to right drop reversed to left drop" is the answer.
The spokes are semi-competition on the drive side (DT Competition) and CX-RAY on the non-drive side.
I went with black spokes for the rear wheel because the front wheel already has black spokes and I'm going to retension it,
so I wanted to avoid the front and rear having different spoke colors.
This hub is all-inpoke lacing. Makes sense, since it's a hooked design.
So why is the hole centering different front and rear...?
(They're mirror images of each other.)
With left-right radial lacing, there's no particular trick to threading them through.