Another day with wheels (details omitted).
I rebuilt the rear wheel with Colima's "Aero" aero rim.
This wheel's rim, spokes, and hub are definitely all Colima,
but it originally had a sticker from a certain complete bike brand that's not a wheel manufacturer
(the manufacturer applied it, not the customer).
As-is, it would need some attention, but since I got the okay to remove it,
I cleaned off every last bit of stubborn adhesive residue.
Compared to the Nomu Lab Wheel No. 2, this was easy work.
So from here on out, this is officially "the Colima Aero".
The customer brought it in because "it feels kind of mushy when riding".
It's not just because the non-drive side is radial-laced—
looking at the spokes, the drive side is also loose.
I can say with certainty that this is below Colima's factory tension specs.
This wheel's current owner isn't the original owner;
it was originally used hard by a pro rider (or rather a pro team),
so the looseness probably came from years of use.
The flange width looks narrow, but it's actually not that narrow.
It just looks that way because the shaft on the left side of the hub body is thin.
It's a high-low flange, but the low side on the non-drive end is incredibly small in diameter,
making it a more extreme high-low flange than it appears.
Other than the radial lacing on the non-drive side, the hub dimensions aren't bad.
Since the spoke tension is completely below factory specs, I could've just increased the tension,
but we decided to rebuild it with a Toni Evo hub instead.
The hole offset pattern on this Colima rim is intense.
Plus, the rim interior is filled with something like urethane,
and the orientation of the nipples and spokes is so restricted
that you can't assemble it with the hole offset reversed (backwards).
The spoke in the rim hole next to the valve hole—which flange it comes from—
has the hole offset reversed compared to a standard rim.
In this blog's terminology, it's a reverse rim.
Since it was reverse Italian laced before, I wanted to do Italian lacing,
but with a 24H four-cross pattern, threading spokes creates a "right drop".
Standard Italian lacing (in the case of even-sided lacing) is left drop.
With a reverse rim, this left-right drop reverses, so
four-cross on a reverse rim is
"the reverse of left drop, then the reverse of right drop, which makes left drop" the correct answer.
The spokes are half-comp—DT Competition on the drive side and CX-RAY on the non-drive side.
I chose black spokes for the rear wheel because the front wheel already had black spokes,
and I wanted to avoid having different spoke colors front and rear when we retension the front wheel.
This hub is nipple-through. Obviously, since it uses a hooked design.
So why are the hole offsets different front and rear...?
(They're mirror images of each other)
With radial lacing on both sides, there's no particular trick to threading, though.
I rebuilt the rear wheel with Colima's "Aero" aero rim.
This wheel's rim, spokes, and hub are definitely all Colima,
but it originally had a sticker from a certain complete bike brand that's not a wheel manufacturer
(the manufacturer applied it, not the customer).
As-is, it would need some attention, but since I got the okay to remove it,
I cleaned off every last bit of stubborn adhesive residue.
Compared to the Nomu Lab Wheel No. 2, this was easy work.
So from here on out, this is officially "the Colima Aero".
The customer brought it in because "it feels kind of mushy when riding".
It's not just because the non-drive side is radial-laced—
looking at the spokes, the drive side is also loose.
I can say with certainty that this is below Colima's factory tension specs.
This wheel's current owner isn't the original owner;
it was originally used hard by a pro rider (or rather a pro team),
so the looseness probably came from years of use.
The flange width looks narrow, but it's actually not that narrow.
It just looks that way because the shaft on the left side of the hub body is thin.
It's a high-low flange, but the low side on the non-drive end is incredibly small in diameter,
making it a more extreme high-low flange than it appears.
Other than the radial lacing on the non-drive side, the hub dimensions aren't bad.
Since the spoke tension is completely below factory specs, I could've just increased the tension,
but we decided to rebuild it with a Toni Evo hub instead.
The hole offset pattern on this Colima rim is intense.
Plus, the rim interior is filled with something like urethane,
and the orientation of the nipples and spokes is so restricted
that you can't assemble it with the hole offset reversed (backwards).
The spoke in the rim hole next to the valve hole—which flange it comes from—
has the hole offset reversed compared to a standard rim.
In this blog's terminology, it's a reverse rim.
Since it was reverse Italian laced before, I wanted to do Italian lacing,
but with a 24H four-cross pattern, threading spokes creates a "right drop".
Standard Italian lacing (in the case of even-sided lacing) is left drop.
With a reverse rim, this left-right drop reverses, so
four-cross on a reverse rim is
"the reverse of left drop, then the reverse of right drop, which makes left drop" the correct answer.
The spokes are half-comp—DT Competition on the drive side and CX-RAY on the non-drive side.
I chose black spokes for the rear wheel because the front wheel already had black spokes,
and I wanted to avoid having different spoke colors front and rear when we retension the front wheel.
This hub is nipple-through. Obviously, since it uses a hooked design.
So why are the hole offsets different front and rear...?
(They're mirror images of each other)
With radial lacing on both sides, there's no particular trick to threading, though.