Another day with wheels (and so on).
A customer brought in the front wheel of a Reynolds DV46 Cross for me to work on.
A while back, I rebuilt the rear wheel of a DV46 UL on a different job,
and that rim felt spongy when I pressed on its sidewall,
but this rim is nice and rigid.
Clearly they're making different versions.
Besides that, another difference is
that the spokes are round-butted rather than aero.
The front wheel came with DT Revolution spokes,
and the rear wheel uses DT spokes in a left/right different-diameter build with Comp/Revolution lacing.
I only have the front wheel to work on this time,
but the customer wants me to rebuild it
with aero spokes.
Reynolds had a period where the front wheel
was built in what I call "reverse hole orientation" (a term from the のむ Lab)—
where from the valve hole going clockwise,
the next spoke comes from
the near hub flange from my perspective.
This is an internal-nipple rim, but
since there are no hole-orientation markings on either the inner or outer edge,
I could rebuild it in standard orientation without issues.
But this time, I decided to rebuild it in the same reverse orientation as the original.
The reason is that the Reynolds lettering visible through the valve hole
was perfectly positioned,
and since this wheel is 20H,
changing the hole orientation would shift it by 18°.
In the image above,
if I were to shift one hole in the direction that moves the hub lettering backward,
it would end up roughly in the middle of the marking area, so
rebuilding in standard orientation
wouldn't be a dramatic shift either.
Rebuilt it.
Upgraded from black Revolution to black CX-RAY spokes,
and I built it in the same counter-spoke radial lacing as the original.
The spoke tension is roughly the same as the original wheel, but
with round-butted spokes like DT Revolution or Sapim Laser that have a 1.5mm butted section,
I tensioned it above the threshold where the wheel would start to "undulate."
I should have mentioned—the rim is tubular,
and the customer had already done a pretty thorough job
removing the rim cement from the tire bed,
though the cement that fell into the rim interior
naturally couldn't all be removed—
but the total amount of cement left in the rim is only a few grams.
I should mention the internal nipples
left marks showing they were hexagonal in shape.
I mention "a few grams" because
I actually weighed the rim.
There was a balance weight sticker on the rim,
so I peeled it off for the work.
But after saying all that,
I'm not going to tell you the rim weight.
You think I'm just gonna hand that out?
↑geez, this guy's got an attitude
Sorry for the wait!
Please have a look at this image!
And here's a photo of the DV46 UL rim from the other day
for reference!
↑Quit it already!
A customer brought in the front wheel of a Reynolds DV46 Cross for me to work on.
A while back, I rebuilt the rear wheel of a DV46 UL on a different job,
and that rim felt spongy when I pressed on its sidewall,
but this rim is nice and rigid.
Clearly they're making different versions.
Besides that, another difference is
that the spokes are round-butted rather than aero.
The front wheel came with DT Revolution spokes,
and the rear wheel uses DT spokes in a left/right different-diameter build with Comp/Revolution lacing.
I only have the front wheel to work on this time,
but the customer wants me to rebuild it
with aero spokes.
Reynolds had a period where the front wheel
was built in what I call "reverse hole orientation" (a term from the のむ Lab)—
where from the valve hole going clockwise,
the next spoke comes from
the near hub flange from my perspective.
This is an internal-nipple rim, but
since there are no hole-orientation markings on either the inner or outer edge,
I could rebuild it in standard orientation without issues.
But this time, I decided to rebuild it in the same reverse orientation as the original.
The reason is that the Reynolds lettering visible through the valve hole
was perfectly positioned,
and since this wheel is 20H,
changing the hole orientation would shift it by 18°.
In the image above,
if I were to shift one hole in the direction that moves the hub lettering backward,
it would end up roughly in the middle of the marking area, so
rebuilding in standard orientation
wouldn't be a dramatic shift either.
Rebuilt it.
Upgraded from black Revolution to black CX-RAY spokes,
and I built it in the same counter-spoke radial lacing as the original.
The spoke tension is roughly the same as the original wheel, but
with round-butted spokes like DT Revolution or Sapim Laser that have a 1.5mm butted section,
I tensioned it above the threshold where the wheel would start to "undulate."
I should have mentioned—the rim is tubular,
and the customer had already done a pretty thorough job
removing the rim cement from the tire bed,
though the cement that fell into the rim interior
naturally couldn't all be removed—
but the total amount of cement left in the rim is only a few grams.
I should mention the internal nipples
left marks showing they were hexagonal in shape.
I mention "a few grams" because
I actually weighed the rim.
There was a balance weight sticker on the rim,
so I peeled it off for the work.
But after saying all that,
I'm not going to tell you the rim weight.
You think I'm just gonna hand that out?
↑geez, this guy's got an attitude
Sorry for the wait!
Please have a look at this image!
And here's a photo of the DV46 UL rim from the other day
for reference!
↑Quit it already!