Today's wheel stuff (and so on). is not
this wheel.
Continuing from the other day, I wanted to change
the rear wheel of the WH-RS700 to silver spokes too,
but we didn't have enough spoke inventory at the shop.
By the way, this front and rear wheel,
the precise model name is WH-RS700-C30-TL,
but the WH-RS700 has no rim heights other than C30
and no specifications other than TL (tubeless),
so abbreviating it to WH-RS700 is fine.
Even with C30, the rim heights are 24mm for the front wheel
and 28mm for the rear wheel,
so for the front wheel it would be more accurate to call it C24.
There's a wheel called WH-R9100-C40,
but in CL that's pretty much the same as
the previous WH-7900-C35,
with the rim height staying at 35mm (→here).
The WH-RS700 has a carbon laminate rim
and tubeless specifications,
but unlike the traditional Shimano rims
that have no holes on the outer edge except the valve hole,
these are laced with standard nipples
(though larger in size) and have tubeless tape applied,
making them tubeless-ready.
I wonder if something happened (→here).
Separate from the wheel rebuild issue,
there's an abnormality in the hub rotation.
Speaking from the anti-freewheel side (left side) perspective,
when I hold the hub axle with my finger and rotate it counterclockwise,
the freewheel body syncs completely and rotates with it.
And when I try to rotate it clockwise,
there's abnormal resistance
and I can barely move it with just my finger strength.
This happens because the dust seal on the freewheel body is installed
in the wrong direction,
causing the right cone piece that's integrated with the hub axle
to constantly rub hard against the seal.
Of course it wasn't like this from the factory—
it's from amateur overhaul attempts.
Even with the rear wheel in this condition, if you mount it in the frame
it rotates despite the hub axle being too stiff to turn by hand,
and it's still usable.
For details on the dust seal orientation (→here)
and the links at the top of that article.
Hmm? The seal orientation is correct.
The U-shaped seal has its recessed side
facing outward,
and the side with six metal "II"-like marks is on the outside.
But this seal was indeed
the cause of the abnormal resistance.
The installation depth was too shallow.
I inserted the seal straight in all the way.
You can see the difference compared to two images back.
This seal is difficult to insert straight all the way in.
The white grease around the bearings
isn't Shimano's factory grease,
so there's definitely a history of amateur overhaul attempts.
Since it might have been done by the customer themselves,
I won't be too harsh about it.
By the way, just cleaning and greasing
can be done without removing the dust seal.
this wheel.
Continuing from the other day, I wanted to change
the rear wheel of the WH-RS700 to silver spokes too,
but we didn't have enough spoke inventory at the shop.
By the way, this front and rear wheel,
the precise model name is WH-RS700-C30-TL,
but the WH-RS700 has no rim heights other than C30
and no specifications other than TL (tubeless),
so abbreviating it to WH-RS700 is fine.
Even with C30, the rim heights are 24mm for the front wheel
and 28mm for the rear wheel,
so for the front wheel it would be more accurate to call it C24.
There's a wheel called WH-R9100-C40,
but in CL that's pretty much the same as
the previous WH-7900-C35,
with the rim height staying at 35mm (→here).
The WH-RS700 has a carbon laminate rim
and tubeless specifications,
but unlike the traditional Shimano rims
that have no holes on the outer edge except the valve hole,
these are laced with standard nipples
(though larger in size) and have tubeless tape applied,
making them tubeless-ready.
I wonder if something happened (→here).
Separate from the wheel rebuild issue,
there's an abnormality in the hub rotation.
Speaking from the anti-freewheel side (left side) perspective,
when I hold the hub axle with my finger and rotate it counterclockwise,
the freewheel body syncs completely and rotates with it.
And when I try to rotate it clockwise,
there's abnormal resistance
and I can barely move it with just my finger strength.
This happens because the dust seal on the freewheel body is installed
in the wrong direction,
causing the right cone piece that's integrated with the hub axle
to constantly rub hard against the seal.
Of course it wasn't like this from the factory—
it's from amateur overhaul attempts.
Even with the rear wheel in this condition, if you mount it in the frame
it rotates despite the hub axle being too stiff to turn by hand,
and it's still usable.
For details on the dust seal orientation (→here)
and the links at the top of that article.
Hmm? The seal orientation is correct.
The U-shaped seal has its recessed side
facing outward,
and the side with six metal "II"-like marks is on the outside.
But this seal was indeed
the cause of the abnormal resistance.
The installation depth was too shallow.
I inserted the seal straight in all the way.
You can see the difference compared to two images back.
This seal is difficult to insert straight all the way in.
The white grease around the bearings
isn't Shimano's factory grease,
so there's definitely a history of amateur overhaul attempts.
Since it might have been done by the customer themselves,
I won't be too harsh about it.
By the way, just cleaning and greasing
can be done without removing the dust seal.