Wheels again today (and so on).
Continuing from the front wheel the other day.
Rebuilding the rear wheel with an Open Pro rim.
This was supposed to happen yesterday
but something irregular came up, so it got pushed back.
FH-7700 32H Starbright 2.0–1.8–2.0mm
Round butted, 68-spoke reverse JIS lacing with brass nipples.
The front wheel was JIS lacing, but
if the lacing pattern is the same,
the reason I'm using reverse JIS lacing (or rather, it turned out that way)
is that without consciously choosing
right-hand or left-hand drop,
I threaded the spokes through the hub
and when I created the final pair of four crossed spokes
on the left and right side bundles,
the spoke bundle would cross over the valve hole.
To avoid that, I reversed the direction of the inpoke and outpoke
on the freewheel side, and that's what resulted.
The stamp on the hub flange reads ZF,
so that means June 2001 manufacture (→here), but that's neither here nor there.
This Starbright turned out to be the real deal—strongest in terms of magnetism.
I was thinking of rebuilding it semi-competition spec,
but for the freewheel side, it's better to reuse this than go competition spec.
↑The stepped butted section of the Starbright spoke.
Butted spokes from other manufacturers don't have a distinct step—
the outer diameter changes gradually instead.
I'm just describing what it looks like here;
this isn't to say this spec is inferior or anything like that. Just noting.
When pulling the spokes out from the hub flange,
the spoke threads had scraped marks on the hub shell.
Among Shimano hubs, only Dura-Ace hubs avoid this,
but as I mentioned the other day,
with other hubs like Chris King,
the flange hole diameter is small enough that
spokes don't fall out from their own weight,
so you have to yank them out to retrieve them.
If you're not careful, you'll end up doing this.
After releasing tension,
one spoke on the freewheel side was bent.
With this size Shimano rear hub,
when doing both sides the same lacing,
the spoke lengths differ by 2mm between left and right,
and they were indeed different lengths on each side.
In the image above, the shorter one is
the bent spoke being removed.
↑The deformed spoke runs parallel
to the straight spoke for part of its length.
I separated the 16 spokes from the non-freewheel side
into 8 inpokes and 8 outpokes from their original orientation,
cut them all 2mm shorter,
and used them as spare spokes for the freewheel side.
One inpoke was used for repairing the bent spoke,
so the remainder is 7 inpokes and 8 outpokes.
One inconsistency between the original front and rear wheels
was spoke tension.
The front wheel was loose,
but the rear wheel was quite tight for these spokes.
In the image above, there's dirt on the spoke showing
where the inner edge of the original nipple ended,
and I tightened to flush with the spoke to match
the original wheel's specification.
↑This is the completed state,
and since I tightened until the dirt mark is hidden,
it's actually tighter than the original.
Built.
FH-7700 32H
14–15 round SB / CX-RAY
68-spoke Italian lacing with aluminum nipples.
I'll do the tying later.
For the freewheel spokes,
except for the one I replaced, I didn't remove
any from the hub flange at all.
The freewheel inpokes and outpokes
were extending in opposite-porcupine and porcupine directions,
which I reversed, but
I still managed to align
the Dura-Ace marking on the hub shell
roughly with the phase visible from the valve hole.
The rim label appearing offset compared to this
is due to
the Mavic patented
rim hole count indicator sticker.
When you align the round hole of the sticker
with the rim hole
(or rather, you have to),
the long hole indicator shows
the rim's hole count.
The rim joint, which is diametrically opposite the valve hole,
is roughly at the M in the MAVIC logo in the image above,
and that's not near the center of the sticker's length,
so relative to the valve hole
and the hub shell marking aligned with it,
the sticker ends up appearing offset.
Continuing from the front wheel the other day.
Rebuilding the rear wheel with an Open Pro rim.
This was supposed to happen yesterday
but something irregular came up, so it got pushed back.
FH-7700 32H Starbright 2.0–1.8–2.0mm
Round butted, 68-spoke reverse JIS lacing with brass nipples.
The front wheel was JIS lacing, but
if the lacing pattern is the same,
the reason I'm using reverse JIS lacing (or rather, it turned out that way)
is that without consciously choosing
right-hand or left-hand drop,
I threaded the spokes through the hub
and when I created the final pair of four crossed spokes
on the left and right side bundles,
the spoke bundle would cross over the valve hole.
To avoid that, I reversed the direction of the inpoke and outpoke
on the freewheel side, and that's what resulted.
The stamp on the hub flange reads ZF,
so that means June 2001 manufacture (→here), but that's neither here nor there.
This Starbright turned out to be the real deal—strongest in terms of magnetism.
I was thinking of rebuilding it semi-competition spec,
but for the freewheel side, it's better to reuse this than go competition spec.
↑The stepped butted section of the Starbright spoke.
Butted spokes from other manufacturers don't have a distinct step—
the outer diameter changes gradually instead.
I'm just describing what it looks like here;
this isn't to say this spec is inferior or anything like that. Just noting.
When pulling the spokes out from the hub flange,
the spoke threads had scraped marks on the hub shell.
Among Shimano hubs, only Dura-Ace hubs avoid this,
but as I mentioned the other day,
with other hubs like Chris King,
the flange hole diameter is small enough that
spokes don't fall out from their own weight,
so you have to yank them out to retrieve them.
If you're not careful, you'll end up doing this.
After releasing tension,
one spoke on the freewheel side was bent.
With this size Shimano rear hub,
when doing both sides the same lacing,
the spoke lengths differ by 2mm between left and right,
and they were indeed different lengths on each side.
In the image above, the shorter one is
the bent spoke being removed.
↑The deformed spoke runs parallel
to the straight spoke for part of its length.
I separated the 16 spokes from the non-freewheel side
into 8 inpokes and 8 outpokes from their original orientation,
cut them all 2mm shorter,
and used them as spare spokes for the freewheel side.
One inpoke was used for repairing the bent spoke,
so the remainder is 7 inpokes and 8 outpokes.
One inconsistency between the original front and rear wheels
was spoke tension.
The front wheel was loose,
but the rear wheel was quite tight for these spokes.
In the image above, there's dirt on the spoke showing
where the inner edge of the original nipple ended,
and I tightened to flush with the spoke to match
the original wheel's specification.
↑This is the completed state,
and since I tightened until the dirt mark is hidden,
it's actually tighter than the original.
Built.
FH-7700 32H
14–15 round SB / CX-RAY
68-spoke Italian lacing with aluminum nipples.
I'll do the tying later.
For the freewheel spokes,
except for the one I replaced, I didn't remove
any from the hub flange at all.
The freewheel inpokes and outpokes
were extending in opposite-porcupine and porcupine directions,
which I reversed, but
I still managed to align
the Dura-Ace marking on the hub shell
roughly with the phase visible from the valve hole.
The rim label appearing offset compared to this
is due to
the Mavic patented
rim hole count indicator sticker.
When you align the round hole of the sticker
with the rim hole
(or rather, you have to),
the long hole indicator shows
the rim's hole count.
The rim joint, which is diametrically opposite the valve hole,
is roughly at the M in the MAVIC logo in the image above,
and that's not near the center of the sticker's length,
so relative to the valve hole
and the hub shell marking aligned with it,
the sticker ends up appearing offset.