Another day of wheels (and so on).
This is a continuation from the front wheel work the other day.
I'm going to rebuild the rear wheel with Open Pro rims.
I was supposed to do this yesterday,
but something came up, so it got pushed back.
FH-7700 32H Starbright 2.0-1.8-2.0mm
Round butted, 68-laced reverse JIS lacing with brass nipples.
The front wheel was JIS laced, but
if the lacing pattern is the same,
the reason I ended up with reverse JIS lacing
is that without consciously thinking about right-drop or left-drop,
I threaded the spokes through the hub, and
when I created a pair of spoke bundles from the final four-spoke crossings on both sides,
the spoke bundle straddled the valve hole,
so I changed the direction of the non-pulling and reverse-pulling spokes on the freewheel side
to avoid straddling it.
The marking on the hub flange says ZF, which means it was made in June 2001 (→here), but that's neither here nor there.
This Starbright turned out to be the real deal—the strongest in terms of magnetic properties.
I was thinking of rebuilding it as semi-competition lacing,
but for the freewheel side, I should reuse this one instead of going with competition spokes.
↑This is the stepped butted section of Shimano's star spokes.
Butted spokes from other manufacturers don't have a clear step;
the outer diameter changes gradually instead.
I'm just describing what it looks like here—
this isn't to say that this specification is inferior or anything like that, just to be clear.
When I pulled the spokes out of the hub flange,
there were scratch marks on the hub shell from the spoke threads.
Among Shimano hubs, only Dura-Ace hubs don't have this issue.
For other brands, as I mentioned before,
Chris King hubs have small-diameter flange holes,
so the spokes won't fall out on their own weight.
You have to give them a good tug to pull them out,
and if you're not careful, you can do this kind of damage.
After releasing the tension,
one spoke on the freewheel side was bent.
With a Shimano rear hub of these dimensions,
if you use the same number of spokes on both sides,
the spoke length differs by 2mm between left and right,
and sure enough, they had correctly adjusted the length on each side.
In the image above, the shorter one is
the bent spoke I removed.
↑The deformed spoke
runs parallel to the straight spoke
for part of its length.
I separated the 16 spokes on the non-freewheel side
into 8 pulling and 8 reverse-pulling spokes,
cut all of them 2mm shorter,
and used them as replacement spokes for the freewheel side.
One pulling spoke was used to repair the bent spoke,
so I have 7 pulling spokes and 8 reverse-pulling spokes remaining.
One inconsistency between the original front and rear wheels
was spoke tension.
The front wheel was on the loose side,
but the rear wheel was quite tight for these spokes.
In the image above, you can see the dirt line on the spoke
showing where the inner edge of the original nipple ended—
I tightened them flush with this line to match
the original wheel's tension.
↑This is how it looks finished,
but since I tightened it past where the dirt hides,
it's actually tighter than the original.
It's built.
FH-7700 32H
14-15 round SB/CX-RAY
68 Italian lacing with aluminum nipples.
I'll do the spoke pointing later.
As for the freewheel side spokes,
except for the one I replaced, I didn't pull any of them out
from the hub flange.
The freewheel side pulling and reverse-pulling spokes,
which were extending in anti-porcupine and porcupine directions,
I reversed those, but
I was still able to align it roughly
with the phase of the Dura-Ace lettering on the hub shell
as seen through the valve hole.
As for why the rim label appears to be offset,
it's because of Mavic's patented
rim hole number indicator sticker.
When you align the round hole on the sticker
with a rim hole
(or rather, you have to),
the long-hole indicator
shows the number of rim holes.
The rim seam, which is at the opposite phase from the valve hole,
is around the M in the MAVIC logo in the image above,
which isn't at the center of the sticker's length,
so relative to the valve hole
and the hub shell lettering aligned with it,
the sticker ends up offset.
This is a continuation from the front wheel work the other day.
I'm going to rebuild the rear wheel with Open Pro rims.
I was supposed to do this yesterday,
but something came up, so it got pushed back.
FH-7700 32H Starbright 2.0-1.8-2.0mm
Round butted, 68-laced reverse JIS lacing with brass nipples.
The front wheel was JIS laced, but
if the lacing pattern is the same,
the reason I ended up with reverse JIS lacing
is that without consciously thinking about right-drop or left-drop,
I threaded the spokes through the hub, and
when I created a pair of spoke bundles from the final four-spoke crossings on both sides,
the spoke bundle straddled the valve hole,
so I changed the direction of the non-pulling and reverse-pulling spokes on the freewheel side
to avoid straddling it.
The marking on the hub flange says ZF, which means it was made in June 2001 (→here), but that's neither here nor there.
This Starbright turned out to be the real deal—the strongest in terms of magnetic properties.
I was thinking of rebuilding it as semi-competition lacing,
but for the freewheel side, I should reuse this one instead of going with competition spokes.
↑This is the stepped butted section of Shimano's star spokes.
Butted spokes from other manufacturers don't have a clear step;
the outer diameter changes gradually instead.
I'm just describing what it looks like here—
this isn't to say that this specification is inferior or anything like that, just to be clear.
When I pulled the spokes out of the hub flange,
there were scratch marks on the hub shell from the spoke threads.
Among Shimano hubs, only Dura-Ace hubs don't have this issue.
For other brands, as I mentioned before,
Chris King hubs have small-diameter flange holes,
so the spokes won't fall out on their own weight.
You have to give them a good tug to pull them out,
and if you're not careful, you can do this kind of damage.
After releasing the tension,
one spoke on the freewheel side was bent.
With a Shimano rear hub of these dimensions,
if you use the same number of spokes on both sides,
the spoke length differs by 2mm between left and right,
and sure enough, they had correctly adjusted the length on each side.
In the image above, the shorter one is
the bent spoke I removed.
↑The deformed spoke
runs parallel to the straight spoke
for part of its length.
I separated the 16 spokes on the non-freewheel side
into 8 pulling and 8 reverse-pulling spokes,
cut all of them 2mm shorter,
and used them as replacement spokes for the freewheel side.
One pulling spoke was used to repair the bent spoke,
so I have 7 pulling spokes and 8 reverse-pulling spokes remaining.
One inconsistency between the original front and rear wheels
was spoke tension.
The front wheel was on the loose side,
but the rear wheel was quite tight for these spokes.
In the image above, you can see the dirt line on the spoke
showing where the inner edge of the original nipple ended—
I tightened them flush with this line to match
the original wheel's tension.
↑This is how it looks finished,
but since I tightened it past where the dirt hides,
it's actually tighter than the original.
It's built.
FH-7700 32H
14-15 round SB/CX-RAY
68 Italian lacing with aluminum nipples.
I'll do the spoke pointing later.
As for the freewheel side spokes,
except for the one I replaced, I didn't pull any of them out
from the hub flange.
The freewheel side pulling and reverse-pulling spokes,
which were extending in anti-porcupine and porcupine directions,
I reversed those, but
I was still able to align it roughly
with the phase of the Dura-Ace lettering on the hub shell
as seen through the valve hole.
As for why the rim label appears to be offset,
it's because of Mavic's patented
rim hole number indicator sticker.
When you align the round hole on the sticker
with a rim hole
(or rather, you have to),
the long-hole indicator
shows the number of rim holes.
The rim seam, which is at the opposite phase from the valve hole,
is around the M in the MAVIC logo in the image above,
which isn't at the center of the sticker's length,
so relative to the valve hole
and the hub shell lettering aligned with it,
the sticker ends up offset.