Another wheel day (and so on).
A customer brought in an EA90 Aero wheel for me to work on.
The reason for the rebuild is...
The hub is broken in multiple places.
I won't go into details, but it's not just one spot.
So I decided to rebuild it with a TNI Evo hub in 20H.
Even though this is a Shimano 10-speed-only freehub, rebuilding it means it can also handle 11-speed,
which is nice in that respect too.
↑The indentation on the rim's brake zone is an indicator.
When it wears down and disappears, that's your sign to replace the rim,
but this rim is in perfectly fine condition.
The line running across the same height on the brake zone
is there because metal shavings are embedded at that height where the brake shoe contacts.
If you don't replace the shoes or dig out the shavings, the rim sidewall's lifespan gets drastically shortened.
During braking, you'd probably hear a metallic grinding sound,
so you should address it as soon as you notice it.
I cleaned it up using the Secret Technique of Yaho○ Auctions.
For details on the Secret Technique of Yaho○ Auctions (→here)
When I shook the rim, it made a rustling sound.
There were several metal shavings trapped inside.
For larger pieces that exceed the diameter of the rim's outer hole, I use tweezers to pull them out.
Got it built.
Half-Comp Italian 4-cross lacing with tied nipples.
This isn't related to the image above, but
once I was about 80% done building, I tore the whole wheel down again.
I can't write why I did that.
It's a small thing, but if I let it slide,
I'd be dragging that compromise with me going forward.
"I'm pretty sure it would work fine and nobody would ever notice" is what I might think,
but that's exactly how work starts to rot. Probably.
A customer brought in an EA90 Aero wheel for me to work on.
The reason for the rebuild is...
The hub is broken in multiple places.
I won't go into details, but it's not just one spot.
So I decided to rebuild it with a TNI Evo hub in 20H.
Even though this is a Shimano 10-speed-only freehub, rebuilding it means it can also handle 11-speed,
which is nice in that respect too.
↑The indentation on the rim's brake zone is an indicator.
When it wears down and disappears, that's your sign to replace the rim,
but this rim is in perfectly fine condition.
The line running across the same height on the brake zone
is there because metal shavings are embedded at that height where the brake shoe contacts.
If you don't replace the shoes or dig out the shavings, the rim sidewall's lifespan gets drastically shortened.
During braking, you'd probably hear a metallic grinding sound,
so you should address it as soon as you notice it.
I cleaned it up using the Secret Technique of Yaho○ Auctions.
For details on the Secret Technique of Yaho○ Auctions (→here)
When I shook the rim, it made a rustling sound.
There were several metal shavings trapped inside.
For larger pieces that exceed the diameter of the rim's outer hole, I use tweezers to pull them out.
Got it built.
Half-Comp Italian 4-cross lacing with tied nipples.
This isn't related to the image above, but
once I was about 80% done building, I tore the whole wheel down again.
I can't write why I did that.
It's a small thing, but if I let it slide,
I'd be dragging that compromise with me going forward.
"I'm pretty sure it would work fine and nobody would ever notice" is what I might think,
but that's exactly how work starts to rot. Probably.