The drill is screaming!
I received a SHIV bike from a customer.
Limited color edition (playing dumb).
Looks like the extension bar section on top of the base bar
has been subject to a recall.
The shop where it was purchased is handling the replacement.
Based on the timeline, I get the feeling that our shop
bears some responsibility for why the recall happened, but I shouldn't think about that.
↑In exchange for not being able to adjust the angle, the screws won't loosen
and the bar falling off during riding has become unlikely to happen.
They probably decided to go ahead with the recall prioritizing foolproofing.
Since my previous repair (→here) didn't budge at all,
whether the screws actually loosen depends on whether the mechanic working on it has their head on straight.
Anyway, the customer's request was
that the countersunk screw on the water tank cap on the top tube
had rusted and couldn't be removed, so could I do something about it.
They asked the shop where they bought it to handle it along with the recall bar replacement,
but they were told it was impossible right away.
Look, this is a failure of a function that the frame originally had,
so you'd think they'd do something about it,
or that they'd see the job through on a product they sold.
I'm not saying that. The other shop would be a waste of effort anyway.
Rather, I should be grateful they didn't try to do some irreversible modification
and end up bringing it in completely broken.
I forgot to shoot the before state.
Actually, this is after the work.
I drilled away the head of the countersunk screw and removed the cap,
The seized rivet nut with fused threads
I ground down to just barely fit into the frame.
If the threads hadn't been seized, I wouldn't have needed to replace the rivet nut,
but if the threads hadn't been seized, it should have loosened with an Allen key anyway
even if it was slightly rusted, so it would've ended up this way regardless.
↑I crushed one for the photo,
but here are the rivet nuts before and after modification.
This one was for M4 screws.
I pressed in the rivet nut.
The hole in the cap has a countersink on the top side that matches the countersunk screw,
but on the back side there's a relief groove to avoid interference with the rivet nut.
I had an M4 countersunk screw at the shop.
Before the work, this one was completely brown with rust.
I received a SHIV bike from a customer.
Limited color edition (playing dumb).
Looks like the extension bar section on top of the base bar
has been subject to a recall.
The shop where it was purchased is handling the replacement.
Based on the timeline, I get the feeling that our shop
bears some responsibility for why the recall happened, but I shouldn't think about that.
↑In exchange for not being able to adjust the angle, the screws won't loosen
and the bar falling off during riding has become unlikely to happen.
They probably decided to go ahead with the recall prioritizing foolproofing.
Since my previous repair (→here) didn't budge at all,
whether the screws actually loosen depends on whether the mechanic working on it has their head on straight.
Anyway, the customer's request was
that the countersunk screw on the water tank cap on the top tube
had rusted and couldn't be removed, so could I do something about it.
They asked the shop where they bought it to handle it along with the recall bar replacement,
but they were told it was impossible right away.
Look, this is a failure of a function that the frame originally had,
so you'd think they'd do something about it,
or that they'd see the job through on a product they sold.
I'm not saying that. The other shop would be a waste of effort anyway.
Rather, I should be grateful they didn't try to do some irreversible modification
and end up bringing it in completely broken.
I forgot to shoot the before state.
Actually, this is after the work.
I drilled away the head of the countersunk screw and removed the cap,
The seized rivet nut with fused threads
I ground down to just barely fit into the frame.
If the threads hadn't been seized, I wouldn't have needed to replace the rivet nut,
but if the threads hadn't been seized, it should have loosened with an Allen key anyway
even if it was slightly rusted, so it would've ended up this way regardless.
↑I crushed one for the photo,
but here are the rivet nuts before and after modification.
This one was for M4 screws.
I pressed in the rivet nut.
The hole in the cap has a countersink on the top side that matches the countersunk screw,
but on the back side there's a relief groove to avoid interference with the rivet nut.
I had an M4 countersunk screw at the shop.
Before the work, this one was completely brown with rust.