A customer brought in a Racing Zero wheel for service.
I forgot to take a full photo of the rear wheel,
but I have both front and rear wheels in for service.
They want the hub inspected and trued,
and since it should have black seals inside, they said it's okay to swap to silver seals if needed.
There was a scraping sensation on the inside of the seal,
but it turned out to be lint tangled in there.
↑chronology jumps here, but after
It's the black seal configuration with a grease guard film on the hub shell.
The front hub rotation is slightly gritty,
but since there's no spalling, I didn't replace the ball races on either hub.
Unless the spalling is obviously severe, the cost-benefit of replacing them is poor.
Once you put in new seals and cone adjusters on a hub without proper bearing contact, the rotation will initially be slightly gritty.
This time both front and rear hubs don't seem to have proper bearing contact yet,
so I decided it's better to let proper use over time develop the contact naturally.
I applied a press tool to the seals on both hubs.
Neither showed any additional compression,
the front hub was already centered without drift at the start, and after applying the press tool and adjusting the cone contact, there was still no drift.
For the rear hub, I didn't check the initial centering,
but after completing the full hub overhaul, it had a slight drift.
I'm not sure whether the drift happened during my work.
before
after
before
after
I also cleaned up the hubs.
The areas of the rear hub without black anodize coating had heavy grime buildup that usually becomes impossible to clean once it really adheres,
but this time I was able to get them clean.
before
after
The freewheel body pawl return spring showed no deformation, so I didn't replace it.
Since they're planning to swap to a Campagnolo-compatible freewheel body anyway,
I didn't bother re-greasing the ratchet area.
I did apply a light coat of oil to prevent rust on the pawls.
Regarding the rear hub centering drift I mentioned earlier,
it's really just nitpicking—paper-thin in magnitude.
Some centering gauges would call it acceptable.
Both front and rear wheels had essentially no runout.
I forgot to take a full photo of the rear wheel,
but I have both front and rear wheels in for service.
They want the hub inspected and trued,
and since it should have black seals inside, they said it's okay to swap to silver seals if needed.
There was a scraping sensation on the inside of the seal,
but it turned out to be lint tangled in there.
↑chronology jumps here, but after
It's the black seal configuration with a grease guard film on the hub shell.
The front hub rotation is slightly gritty,
but since there's no spalling, I didn't replace the ball races on either hub.
Unless the spalling is obviously severe, the cost-benefit of replacing them is poor.
Once you put in new seals and cone adjusters on a hub without proper bearing contact, the rotation will initially be slightly gritty.
This time both front and rear hubs don't seem to have proper bearing contact yet,
so I decided it's better to let proper use over time develop the contact naturally.
I applied a press tool to the seals on both hubs.
Neither showed any additional compression,
the front hub was already centered without drift at the start, and after applying the press tool and adjusting the cone contact, there was still no drift.
For the rear hub, I didn't check the initial centering,
but after completing the full hub overhaul, it had a slight drift.
I'm not sure whether the drift happened during my work.
before
after
before
after
I also cleaned up the hubs.
The areas of the rear hub without black anodize coating had heavy grime buildup that usually becomes impossible to clean once it really adheres,
but this time I was able to get them clean.
before
after
The freewheel body pawl return spring showed no deformation, so I didn't replace it.
Since they're planning to swap to a Campagnolo-compatible freewheel body anyway,
I didn't bother re-greasing the ratchet area.
I did apply a light coat of oil to prevent rust on the pawls.
Regarding the rear hub centering drift I mentioned earlier,
it's really just nitpicking—paper-thin in magnitude.
Some centering gauges would call it acceptable.
Both front and rear wheels had essentially no runout.
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Original Japanese post: のむラボ日記 #3252