A customer (technically) brought in a ZIPP disc wheel.
They brought it in mounted on a TT frame without proper cup-and-cone dropouts,
but there's a clearly visible centering offset—
the left and right clearances between the wheel and the chainstays
（which are drawn inward）are different,
and when you look at the seatstays, it's even more pronounced.
With a fairly wide rim and direct-mount rear brake,
the adjustment range is extremely narrow （and the brake shoes are thin too）,
so I couldn't get a proper setting no matter what I tried.
With a proper cup-and-cone dropout frame, you'd normally use
the set screw adjustment at the back of the dropout to
make the wheel-to-chainstay clearance look equal on both sides,
but with reverse-facing straight dropouts, that approach doesn't work.
The rim is offset toward the non-freewheel side.
With this rear hub, the axle is one solid piece
including both ends, so you can't
extend the over-locknut dimension on just one side.
Here's what I mean:
I pulled the hub axle out.
The distance between both serrated ends is the over-locknut dimension of 130mm.
The axle is inserted from the freewheel side, so
you can't adjust the over-locknut dimension.
For example, you can't extend just the right side （freewheel side）by 1mm
to make it 131mm.
There's a thin washer between the freewheel body and hub shell to prevent bottoming,
but by using a washer of the same inner diameter but custom thickness
placed between the freewheel body and the right end flange,
you could extend the right end side
（though this wheel would need its own unique derailleur adjustment）.
To center the wheel, you'd add a spacer equal to half the gap
shown in the earlier center gauge image,
but this rear hub design only allows you to extend the right end while shortening the left end.
Centering requires extending the left end,
so it turned out impossible to properly mount this rear wheel on the TT frame they brought in.
Just to be clear, it's not that the rear hub assembly is wrong
or that any parts are missing or extra.
I mounted the same-structure hub on a frame we had in the shop （not a TT frame）.
I loosened or removed the bearing-adjustment locknut on the left side.
This time I just loosened it.
From this state...
you can shift the rear hub with a click to the left （non-freewheel side）
（as shown in the image），but the reverse is impossible.
Before shifting
After shifting
With a spoke wheel hub, if you did this,
not only would the shifting position become unique to this wheel,
but the dish would be outrageous,
so practically speaking you couldn't build a proper wheel.
Plus, shifted this much, the lockring wouldn't even seat properly.
They brought it in mounted on a TT frame without proper cup-and-cone dropouts,
but there's a clearly visible centering offset—
the left and right clearances between the wheel and the chainstays
（which are drawn inward）are different,
and when you look at the seatstays, it's even more pronounced.
With a fairly wide rim and direct-mount rear brake,
the adjustment range is extremely narrow （and the brake shoes are thin too）,
so I couldn't get a proper setting no matter what I tried.
With a proper cup-and-cone dropout frame, you'd normally use
the set screw adjustment at the back of the dropout to
make the wheel-to-chainstay clearance look equal on both sides,
but with reverse-facing straight dropouts, that approach doesn't work.
The rim is offset toward the non-freewheel side.
With this rear hub, the axle is one solid piece
including both ends, so you can't
extend the over-locknut dimension on just one side.
Here's what I mean:
I pulled the hub axle out.
The distance between both serrated ends is the over-locknut dimension of 130mm.
The axle is inserted from the freewheel side, so
you can't adjust the over-locknut dimension.
For example, you can't extend just the right side （freewheel side）by 1mm
to make it 131mm.
There's a thin washer between the freewheel body and hub shell to prevent bottoming,
but by using a washer of the same inner diameter but custom thickness
placed between the freewheel body and the right end flange,
you could extend the right end side
（though this wheel would need its own unique derailleur adjustment）.
To center the wheel, you'd add a spacer equal to half the gap
shown in the earlier center gauge image,
but this rear hub design only allows you to extend the right end while shortening the left end.
Centering requires extending the left end,
so it turned out impossible to properly mount this rear wheel on the TT frame they brought in.
Just to be clear, it's not that the rear hub assembly is wrong
or that any parts are missing or extra.
I mounted the same-structure hub on a frame we had in the shop （not a TT frame）.
I loosened or removed the bearing-adjustment locknut on the left side.
This time I just loosened it.
From this state...
you can shift the rear hub with a click to the left （non-freewheel side）
（as shown in the image），but the reverse is impossible.
Before shifting
After shifting
With a spoke wheel hub, if you did this,
not only would the shifting position become unique to this wheel,
but the dish would be outrageous,
so practically speaking you couldn't build a proper wheel.
Plus, shifted this much, the lockring wouldn't even seat properly.