Another day, another wheel (and so on).
A customer brought in a Prime AT01 rear wheel for me to work on.
The rim is made by ALEXRIMS, but there's no AT01 model sold individually—
it seems AT01 is just Prime's model designation for the complete wheel.
I'm guessing AT stands for aluminum tubeless.
Same hub as the Evolite—24H, pillar spokes, 2.0–1.8–2.0mm.
Round butted black spokes, 4-cross lace.
Pretty much identical to the all-black Campagnolo 4-cross build.
The hub is Novatech 482-based, but
the hub shell surface has a rough finish,
and it has a freewheel body with a sprocket anti-bite plate
attached to the splines—so technically higher spec than the Evolite.
The rim was slightly offset toward the freewheel side.
It's the kind of offset you'd expect from age, but
it doesn't look like the wheel's been used that much,
so this was definitely from the factory.
Or, if there's a history of truing work, someone was just playing around with it.
The final cross on the non-freewheel side wasn't laced.
I'll swap those spokes to CX-RAY for semi-competition equivalent,
and since I'm doing result-tying, I'll lace it in after the rebuild.
Actually, I'd lace it in anyway, even without the result-tying.
The original nipples had a hexagonal grip surface on the outer edge . . .
Actually no, they were standard nipples but with the slot
extended outward—kind of an unusual shape.
The slot section also has threads on it.
I lined them up next to a DT 12mm nipple (right side in the photo).
The length from the rim contact point inward is roughly the same,
but the slotted section is longer.
I checked the length of the "gum pocket" (the gap before the spoke hits the threads)
when inserting the spoke into the nipple.
↑DT
↑Original nipple
The original nipple has the thread start deeper,
offset outward by the extension of the slot section.
In the original setup, both sides had spoke length reaching the nipple face,
so if I use standard 12mm nipples as replacements,
the freewheel-side spokes would be too long.
I discarded the non-freewheel spokes and shortened the freewheel ones slightly.
To distinguish between original outpokes and original inpokes,
I first pulled out only the outpokes and cut them,
then reinstalled them in the hub before pulling out the inpokes.
That's the state in the photo above.
Done building it up.
Semi-competition equivalent, 4–6 cross lace,
with red aluminum nipples only next to the valve.
Sharp-eyed folks probably already guessed—
same customer as yesterday's wheel.
There were marks on the splines like something had chipped them.
This is a telltale sign of what I mentioned the other day—
that even if you get the top cog phase wrong, you can still torque down the lockring.
This wheel's history shows someone did exactly that.
A customer brought in a Prime AT01 rear wheel for me to work on.
The rim is made by ALEXRIMS, but there's no AT01 model sold individually—
it seems AT01 is just Prime's model designation for the complete wheel.
I'm guessing AT stands for aluminum tubeless.
Same hub as the Evolite—24H, pillar spokes, 2.0–1.8–2.0mm.
Round butted black spokes, 4-cross lace.
Pretty much identical to the all-black Campagnolo 4-cross build.
The hub is Novatech 482-based, but
the hub shell surface has a rough finish,
and it has a freewheel body with a sprocket anti-bite plate
attached to the splines—so technically higher spec than the Evolite.
The rim was slightly offset toward the freewheel side.
It's the kind of offset you'd expect from age, but
it doesn't look like the wheel's been used that much,
so this was definitely from the factory.
Or, if there's a history of truing work, someone was just playing around with it.
The final cross on the non-freewheel side wasn't laced.
I'll swap those spokes to CX-RAY for semi-competition equivalent,
and since I'm doing result-tying, I'll lace it in after the rebuild.
Actually, I'd lace it in anyway, even without the result-tying.
The original nipples had a hexagonal grip surface on the outer edge . . .
Actually no, they were standard nipples but with the slot
extended outward—kind of an unusual shape.
The slot section also has threads on it.
I lined them up next to a DT 12mm nipple (right side in the photo).
The length from the rim contact point inward is roughly the same,
but the slotted section is longer.
I checked the length of the "gum pocket" (the gap before the spoke hits the threads)
when inserting the spoke into the nipple.
↑DT
↑Original nipple
The original nipple has the thread start deeper,
offset outward by the extension of the slot section.
In the original setup, both sides had spoke length reaching the nipple face,
so if I use standard 12mm nipples as replacements,
the freewheel-side spokes would be too long.
I discarded the non-freewheel spokes and shortened the freewheel ones slightly.
To distinguish between original outpokes and original inpokes,
I first pulled out only the outpokes and cut them,
then reinstalled them in the hub before pulling out the inpokes.
That's the state in the photo above.
Done building it up.
Semi-competition equivalent, 4–6 cross lace,
with red aluminum nipples only next to the valve.
Sharp-eyed folks probably already guessed—
same customer as yesterday's wheel.
There were marks on the splines like something had chipped them.
This is a telltale sign of what I mentioned the other day—
that even if you get the top cog phase wrong, you can still torque down the lockring.
This wheel's history shows someone did exactly that.