Today it's wheels again (and so on).
A customer brought in a rear wheel from a Prime AT01.
The rim is made by ALEXRIMS, but there's no AT01 available as a standalone rim model—
it appears to be a model name specific to Prime as a complete wheel.
I wonder if AT stands for aluminum tubeless.
Same hub as the Evolite—24H, Pillar 2.0-1.8-2.0mm spokes
Round butted black spokes, four-cross pattern.
Pretty much identical to the all-black competition four-cross pattern.
The hub is based on Novatec 482, but
the surface finish of the hub shell is rough,
and it has a steel anti-sprocket bite plate
attached to the spline of the freebody,
so it's actually higher spec than the Evolite hub.
The rim had shifted slightly toward the freewheel side.
It's the kind of shift you'd expect from years of use, but
it doesn't look like it's been used that much,
so it was definitely like this from the start.
Or if there's a history of truing, then
it got knocked out of alignment by sloppy truing work.
The final cross on the non-drive side isn't woven.
I'll switch the spokes on this side to CX-RAY to make it semi-competition spec,
and since I'll be tying them, I'll weave them after rebuilding.
Even if I don't tie them, I'd weave them anyway.
The original nipples have a hexagonal grip surface on the outer edge...
Not exactly—they're standard nipples with the slot section extended outward.
The slot section also has threads on it.
I lined them up next to a DT 12mm nipple (right in the image).
The length from the rim contact point inward is about the same,
but the slot section is longer.
I measured the "free space" length from when the spoke inserts into the nipple until it hits the threads.
↑DT
↑Original nipple
The original nipple has the threads starting deeper,
with the threads shifted outward by the amount of slot extension.
In the original setup, both sides had spoke ends flush with the nipple face,
so if I were to reuse generic 12mm nipples,
the freewheel side spoke length would be too long.
I'll discard the non-drive side spokes and trim the drive side ones a bit.
To distinguish between the old non-drive spokes and old drive spokes,
I first removed only the non-drive spokes and cut them,
then put them back on the hub and removed the drive spokes.
That's what the image above shows.
Built it up.
Semi-competition equivalent four-cross pattern
Red aluminum nipples only on both sides of the valve.
Those of you with a keen eye will have noticed
this is from the same customer as yesterday's wheel.
There were marks on the spline that looked like chips.
As I mentioned before, with the top gear only, you can tighten the lockring
even if you get the indexing wrong—
and this is clear evidence that exactly that happened at some point in the past.
A customer brought in a rear wheel from a Prime AT01.
The rim is made by ALEXRIMS, but there's no AT01 available as a standalone rim model—
it appears to be a model name specific to Prime as a complete wheel.
I wonder if AT stands for aluminum tubeless.
Same hub as the Evolite—24H, Pillar 2.0-1.8-2.0mm spokes
Round butted black spokes, four-cross pattern.
Pretty much identical to the all-black competition four-cross pattern.
The hub is based on Novatec 482, but
the surface finish of the hub shell is rough,
and it has a steel anti-sprocket bite plate
attached to the spline of the freebody,
so it's actually higher spec than the Evolite hub.
The rim had shifted slightly toward the freewheel side.
It's the kind of shift you'd expect from years of use, but
it doesn't look like it's been used that much,
so it was definitely like this from the start.
Or if there's a history of truing, then
it got knocked out of alignment by sloppy truing work.
The final cross on the non-drive side isn't woven.
I'll switch the spokes on this side to CX-RAY to make it semi-competition spec,
and since I'll be tying them, I'll weave them after rebuilding.
Even if I don't tie them, I'd weave them anyway.
The original nipples have a hexagonal grip surface on the outer edge...
Not exactly—they're standard nipples with the slot section extended outward.
The slot section also has threads on it.
I lined them up next to a DT 12mm nipple (right in the image).
The length from the rim contact point inward is about the same,
but the slot section is longer.
I measured the "free space" length from when the spoke inserts into the nipple until it hits the threads.
↑DT
↑Original nipple
The original nipple has the threads starting deeper,
with the threads shifted outward by the amount of slot extension.
In the original setup, both sides had spoke ends flush with the nipple face,
so if I were to reuse generic 12mm nipples,
the freewheel side spoke length would be too long.
I'll discard the non-drive side spokes and trim the drive side ones a bit.
To distinguish between the old non-drive spokes and old drive spokes,
I first removed only the non-drive spokes and cut them,
then put them back on the hub and removed the drive spokes.
That's what the image above shows.
Built it up.
Semi-competition equivalent four-cross pattern
Red aluminum nipples only on both sides of the valve.
Those of you with a keen eye will have noticed
this is from the same customer as yesterday's wheel.
There were marks on the spline that looked like chips.
As I mentioned before, with the top gear only, you can tighten the lockring
even if you get the indexing wrong—
and this is clear evidence that exactly that happened at some point in the past.