More wheels today (and so on).
Continuing from the other day.
I'm rebuilding the rear wheel that came as a bonus with the complete bike.
28H black Competition-grade equivalent spokes, 2-cross lacing with equal numbers left and right.
The rim holes alternate left and right.
Since 28H is not a multiple of 3,
there's no possibility of 2:1 hole offset.
Compared to the looseness of the original front wheel, it's relatively unnoticeable,
but since there is some looseness, the customer asked for a rebuild
and since we're going semi-Competition, there's no need to disassemble the freewheel side.
But I did a complete disassembly today (and so on) anyway.
That's not entirely untrue, but there were reasons for doing a full teardown.
In the photo above, I'm shooting the rebuilt front wheel together
to prove this is a rear rim.
The reason I did a full disassembly:
the threadlocker applied to the threads of the spokes I was reusing from the freewheel side
wasunnecessarily strong and made the wheel difficult to build, so
I wanted to run them through a thread die to remove the threadlocker, and
the wheel was built with brass nipples for internal use,
so I wanted to replace them with aluminum nipples.
If it were just that, I could replace them sequentially without disassembling the wheel,
but doing a full teardown first is cleaner and faster overall.
Also, the customer asked me, for convenience's sake, to weigh the rim if there were no other issues.
For spoke length,
sometimes I calculate it by measuring the hub and rim dimensions,
and sometimes I look at the relationship between the nipple end and spoke end on the original wheel
and adjust accordingly.
The spokes on the original front wheel were slightly long
but within acceptable range,
but since I knew we'd be tensioning up further,
I shortened them by just under 1mm to gain some tensioning margin.
The result came out just right.
The original rear wheel spokes were the same length on both sides because the lacing is the same,
which was a lazy shortcut, and since the freewheel side spokes were somewhat short (I had to reuse them anyway),
I made the non-freewheel side 2mm longer.
Since they were the same length, the original non-freewheel side spokes can be used as a spare for the freewheel side.
Actually, if they had been the proper length,
the non-freewheel side should have been freewheel side length plus 1–2mm.
Built.
I laced the non-freewheel side with black CX Sprint straight spokes.
Since the original rear wheel was built quite loosely,
the freewheel side is already significantly more tense than before.
↑This is the rebuilt front wheel, with the valve hole down
viewed from the right side of the wheel
the ETRTO marking sticker is on the right side of the valve hole
and can be read right-side up.
As I wrote the other day, before rebuilding it was reversed.
This is the rear wheel before rebuilding, and
under the same conditions, it matches the front wheel before rebuilding.
With this rim, besides the left-right hole offset,
I checked carefully to see if the holes had no clear directionality
or whether it was an offset rim or not,
but the rear rim appears to have no left-right distinction,
so I rebuilt it with the left-right reversed from the original state
to match the sticker position with the front wheel.
However, since this is just a sticker and can be peeled off easily if desired,
it's weak as evidence for left-right distinction.
So I also looked at the serial number embossed on the rim's outer edge,
which before rebuilding was reversed when viewed from the right side of the wheel.
But this too is hidden by rim tape,
and in cases like ENVE, the rim name and serial number can be
embossed in opposite directions, so
it's not very strong evidence either.
For 2:1 laced rims, you really just have to look carefully at the hole offset.
Speaking of stickers, the hologram markings and "HG" designations
on the side of this rim are also stickers.
↑These are different in year and spec, but likely the same rim at the same height.
These also came on Cannondale complete bikes and,
unlike the one I rebuilt today, were built with aero spokes.
The rim side markings on these are printed instead.
Also, since it's from the transitional period of disc road bikes,
the front hub was 100×12mm thru-axle
and the rear hub was 135mm quick-release.
In contrast, the other day I built front and rear wheels with DT's RR411db rim (→front wheel）（→rear wheel），
and somehow both ended up about 15g heavier than the original wheels.
The customer arrived by bike to pick up and swap the wheels,
and left them with me for a while until they came back to get them,
but when they returned to pick them up and I asked for their impressions of the RR411db wheels,
they said the climbing feel was much better, it feels like it just goes,
and that they'll probably never use this wheel again (the original one in the photo above).
Score one for us.
Anyway, I didn't peel off the rim tape on the original wheel,
but I suspect the spokes, though light, were probably also built with
brass nipples.
The RR411db rim uses Squolx nipples, which are aluminum.
And the front wheel, rather than semi-CX Sprint, I made it all CX-RAY.
Yet the front wheel still lost in weight, which means
the hologram 35mm deep rim is
likely lighter than the RR411db's approximately 410g.
I thought it odd that a complete bike wheel would use such a light rim,
but when I actually weighed it, that's exactly what it was.
Of course, I'm not going to tell you what the weight is here.
Or rather, there's no way I'm showing you the weight just by scrolling down the page.
↑ugh, what a jerk
Sorry for the wait! Please look at this image!
Front rim!
Rear rim!
↑Stop it!
Continuing from the other day.
I'm rebuilding the rear wheel that came as a bonus with the complete bike.
28H black Competition-grade equivalent spokes, 2-cross lacing with equal numbers left and right.
The rim holes alternate left and right.
Since 28H is not a multiple of 3,
there's no possibility of 2:1 hole offset.
Compared to the looseness of the original front wheel, it's relatively unnoticeable,
but since there is some looseness, the customer asked for a rebuild
and since we're going semi-Competition, there's no need to disassemble the freewheel side.
But I did a complete disassembly today (and so on) anyway.
That's not entirely untrue, but there were reasons for doing a full teardown.
In the photo above, I'm shooting the rebuilt front wheel together
to prove this is a rear rim.
The reason I did a full disassembly:
the threadlocker applied to the threads of the spokes I was reusing from the freewheel side
was
I wanted to run them through a thread die to remove the threadlocker, and
the wheel was built with brass nipples for internal use,
so I wanted to replace them with aluminum nipples.
If it were just that, I could replace them sequentially without disassembling the wheel,
but doing a full teardown first is cleaner and faster overall.
Also, the customer asked me, for convenience's sake, to weigh the rim if there were no other issues.
For spoke length,
sometimes I calculate it by measuring the hub and rim dimensions,
and sometimes I look at the relationship between the nipple end and spoke end on the original wheel
and adjust accordingly.
The spokes on the original front wheel were slightly long
but within acceptable range,
but since I knew we'd be tensioning up further,
I shortened them by just under 1mm to gain some tensioning margin.
The result came out just right.
The original rear wheel spokes were the same length on both sides because the lacing is the same,
which was a lazy shortcut, and since the freewheel side spokes were somewhat short (I had to reuse them anyway),
I made the non-freewheel side 2mm longer.
Since they were the same length, the original non-freewheel side spokes can be used as a spare for the freewheel side.
Actually, if they had been the proper length,
the non-freewheel side should have been freewheel side length plus 1–2mm.
Built.
I laced the non-freewheel side with black CX Sprint straight spokes.
Since the original rear wheel was built quite loosely,
the freewheel side is already significantly more tense than before.
↑This is the rebuilt front wheel, with the valve hole down
viewed from the right side of the wheel
the ETRTO marking sticker is on the right side of the valve hole
and can be read right-side up.
As I wrote the other day, before rebuilding it was reversed.
This is the rear wheel before rebuilding, and
under the same conditions, it matches the front wheel before rebuilding.
With this rim, besides the left-right hole offset,
I checked carefully to see if the holes had no clear directionality
or whether it was an offset rim or not,
but the rear rim appears to have no left-right distinction,
so I rebuilt it with the left-right reversed from the original state
to match the sticker position with the front wheel.
However, since this is just a sticker and can be peeled off easily if desired,
it's weak as evidence for left-right distinction.
So I also looked at the serial number embossed on the rim's outer edge,
which before rebuilding was reversed when viewed from the right side of the wheel.
But this too is hidden by rim tape,
and in cases like ENVE, the rim name and serial number can be
embossed in opposite directions, so
it's not very strong evidence either.
For 2:1 laced rims, you really just have to look carefully at the hole offset.
Speaking of stickers, the hologram markings and "HG" designations
on the side of this rim are also stickers.
↑These are different in year and spec, but likely the same rim at the same height.
These also came on Cannondale complete bikes and,
unlike the one I rebuilt today, were built with aero spokes.
The rim side markings on these are printed instead.
Also, since it's from the transitional period of disc road bikes,
the front hub was 100×12mm thru-axle
and the rear hub was 135mm quick-release.
In contrast, the other day I built front and rear wheels with DT's RR411db rim (→front wheel）（→rear wheel），
and somehow both ended up about 15g heavier than the original wheels.
The customer arrived by bike to pick up and swap the wheels,
and left them with me for a while until they came back to get them,
but when they returned to pick them up and I asked for their impressions of the RR411db wheels,
they said the climbing feel was much better, it feels like it just goes,
and that they'll probably never use this wheel again (the original one in the photo above).
Score one for us.
Anyway, I didn't peel off the rim tape on the original wheel,
but I suspect the spokes, though light, were probably also built with
brass nipples.
The RR411db rim uses Squolx nipples, which are aluminum.
And the front wheel, rather than semi-CX Sprint, I made it all CX-RAY.
Yet the front wheel still lost in weight, which means
the hologram 35mm deep rim is
likely lighter than the RR411db's approximately 410g.
I thought it odd that a complete bike wheel would use such a light rim,
but when I actually weighed it, that's exactly what it was.
Of course, I'm not going to tell you what the weight is here.
Or rather, there's no way I'm showing you the weight just by scrolling down the page.
↑ugh, what a jerk
Sorry for the wait! Please look at this image!
Front rim!
Rear rim!
↑Stop it!