Another day of wheels (and so on).
Continuing from yesterday.
I'm rebuilding the rear wheel from the GP4 rim to a CX22 rim.
The front wheel had the shop's name sticker on it
but the rear wheel didn't, so there's no use for my scraper tool here.
↑That thing turned out to be 650W.
The hub is either a Campagnolo Daytona or Centaur.
If it's a 2001 model it would be a Daytona,
and if it's 2002 or later it would be a Centaur,
but unlike the levers, rear derailleur, and brakes,
this hub has no grade marking, so I can't identify it for certain.
The customer mentioned it was a Daytona,
so it's probably a Daytona.
This hub is 32H, and the Chorus and Daytona (Centaur) hubs
only come in 32H and 36H configurations.
Only Record came with a 28H option.
The Record hub has a grease hole in the center of the hub body
and a band covering it.
Starting with Chorus, there's no grease hole.
The Daytona is even more different in its end parts.
The hub bearing cone locknut has a Phillips screw hole for securing it,
and the right end nut has serrations on the frame contact face,
but the left end hollow bolt doesn't.
↑Below is from a 2001 Campagnolo catalog,
and this is the Record front hub.
The rear hub similarly has the grease hole cover band
attached to the hub body.
With Chorus, there's no band on the hub body,
but the bearing cone adjustment part is silver colored with "Chorus" written on it.
With the Daytona, on the other hand:
the bearing cone locknut is a black part
with "Campagnolo" written on it, but
the grade name isn't written anywhere.
By the way, in the image just before, there's a Daytona seatpost.
For Campagnolo seatposts of this generation,
Record has carbon, Chorus has titanium,
and Daytona—remarkably—has steel.
After this generation, Record has a carbon pillar with a carbon clamp,
Chorus uses the same as Record from slightly before, with a carbon pillar and aluminum clamp,
and below that grade there are no seatpost options.
A steel seatpost is quite rare,
but when you put it into a chromoly or other steel frame,
you don't get the galvanic corrosion that occurs with aluminum seatposts,
so it's actually useful for such frames.
...But if you're concerned about that, using a titanium seatpost is more common.
↑This is what's left of a Shimano SP-M900.
The original color was a gray close to black to match the XTRA color of the time,
but the paint has either flaked off or been deliberately removed.
The Daytona seatpost is listed in the catalog as
"steel tube,"
while the SP-M900 is listed as "chromoly steel."
↑Same clamp as the XTR aluminum silver seatpost SP-910 and
the Dura-Ace aluminum silver seatpost SP-7410
By the way, the pillar sections of those two seatposts I just mentioned are Easton.
The pillar section is extremely thin.
Back to the wheel.
The front wheel was laced with brass nipples
while the rear wheel had gold aluminum nipples,
so I wondered if they were built at different times,
but it was laced with the old "stainless" bladed spokes just like the front wheel,
so regardless of when, I think they were built by the same shop.
A spoke had broken and was repaired with a DT Competition spoke.
Looking at the pull marks on the opposite spoke hole,
this wasn't the first time a wheel was laced onto this hub
before I received it.
And probably the second time.
The DT Competition was repaired with a silver aluminum nipple.
The rebuilt wheel also has silver Competition spokes, but
I wasn't about to reuse just this one as a drive-side spoke,
so I did a complete replacement.
↑Freewheel side
↑Non-freewheel side
↑Freewheel side
↑Non-freewheel side
The non-freewheel side spokes are shorter—or rather,
they took a shortcut and built the rear wheel with spokes of equal length on both sides.
In my case, I don't take shortcuts like this in the first place,
and even before that, rear wheels are almost always laced with different left and right spoke lengths,
so being able to use equal-length spokes is just not something that happens.
It's built.
Daytona hub, 32H, fully laced in a 4-cross pattern.
Truing will come later.
Not from any mistake in my lacing technique, but due to the hub's dimensional characteristics,
the non-freewheel side of the wheel before rebuilding was quite loose compared to the freewheel side.
This is because while the total flange width left and right isn't particularly narrow,
the right flange alone is narrow—in other words, the dish is tight,
so the freewheel side becomes over-tensioned very quickly.
This time I only changed from a 6-cross to a 4-cross pattern
and the spoke gauge is basically the same on both sides as before with equal-diameter lacing,
so the non-freewheel side didn't transform as much as I expected,
making truing essential.
Continuing from yesterday.
I'm rebuilding the rear wheel from the GP4 rim to a CX22 rim.
The front wheel had the shop's name sticker on it
but the rear wheel didn't, so there's no use for my scraper tool here.
↑That thing turned out to be 650W.
The hub is either a Campagnolo Daytona or Centaur.
If it's a 2001 model it would be a Daytona,
and if it's 2002 or later it would be a Centaur,
but unlike the levers, rear derailleur, and brakes,
this hub has no grade marking, so I can't identify it for certain.
The customer mentioned it was a Daytona,
so it's probably a Daytona.
This hub is 32H, and the Chorus and Daytona (Centaur) hubs
only come in 32H and 36H configurations.
Only Record came with a 28H option.
The Record hub has a grease hole in the center of the hub body
and a band covering it.
Starting with Chorus, there's no grease hole.
The Daytona is even more different in its end parts.
The hub bearing cone locknut has a Phillips screw hole for securing it,
and the right end nut has serrations on the frame contact face,
but the left end hollow bolt doesn't.
↑Below is from a 2001 Campagnolo catalog,
and this is the Record front hub.
The rear hub similarly has the grease hole cover band
attached to the hub body.
With Chorus, there's no band on the hub body,
but the bearing cone adjustment part is silver colored with "Chorus" written on it.
With the Daytona, on the other hand:
the bearing cone locknut is a black part
with "Campagnolo" written on it, but
the grade name isn't written anywhere.
By the way, in the image just before, there's a Daytona seatpost.
For Campagnolo seatposts of this generation,
Record has carbon, Chorus has titanium,
and Daytona—remarkably—has steel.
After this generation, Record has a carbon pillar with a carbon clamp,
Chorus uses the same as Record from slightly before, with a carbon pillar and aluminum clamp,
and below that grade there are no seatpost options.
A steel seatpost is quite rare,
but when you put it into a chromoly or other steel frame,
you don't get the galvanic corrosion that occurs with aluminum seatposts,
so it's actually useful for such frames.
...But if you're concerned about that, using a titanium seatpost is more common.
↑This is what's left of a Shimano SP-M900.
The original color was a gray close to black to match the XTRA color of the time,
but the paint has either flaked off or been deliberately removed.
The Daytona seatpost is listed in the catalog as
"steel tube,"
while the SP-M900 is listed as "chromoly steel."
↑Same clamp as the XTR aluminum silver seatpost SP-910 and
the Dura-Ace aluminum silver seatpost SP-7410
By the way, the pillar sections of those two seatposts I just mentioned are Easton.
The pillar section is extremely thin.
Back to the wheel.
The front wheel was laced with brass nipples
while the rear wheel had gold aluminum nipples,
so I wondered if they were built at different times,
but it was laced with the old "stainless" bladed spokes just like the front wheel,
so regardless of when, I think they were built by the same shop.
A spoke had broken and was repaired with a DT Competition spoke.
Looking at the pull marks on the opposite spoke hole,
this wasn't the first time a wheel was laced onto this hub
before I received it.
And probably the second time.
The DT Competition was repaired with a silver aluminum nipple.
The rebuilt wheel also has silver Competition spokes, but
I wasn't about to reuse just this one as a drive-side spoke,
so I did a complete replacement.
↑Freewheel side
↑Non-freewheel side
↑Freewheel side
↑Non-freewheel side
The non-freewheel side spokes are shorter—or rather,
they took a shortcut and built the rear wheel with spokes of equal length on both sides.
In my case, I don't take shortcuts like this in the first place,
and even before that, rear wheels are almost always laced with different left and right spoke lengths,
so being able to use equal-length spokes is just not something that happens.
It's built.
Daytona hub, 32H, fully laced in a 4-cross pattern.
Truing will come later.
Not from any mistake in my lacing technique, but due to the hub's dimensional characteristics,
the non-freewheel side of the wheel before rebuilding was quite loose compared to the freewheel side.
This is because while the total flange width left and right isn't particularly narrow,
the right flange alone is narrow—in other words, the dish is tight,
so the freewheel side becomes over-tensioned very quickly.
This time I only changed from a 6-cross to a 4-cross pattern
and the spoke gauge is basically the same on both sides as before with equal-diameter lacing,
so the non-freewheel side didn't transform as much as I expected,
making truing essential.