I swapped out the hubs on the SMART ENVE — replaced the 35mm front wheel hub with a 45mm rear wheel hub.
Both wheels were originally built with DT 240S hubs, but
↑the customer wanted to swap to this hub.
It's clever how the bearings sit just barely outside the flange, but
I've never seen one this dramatically exposed before.
Front wheel is built.
It's a wide-flange hub, but I didn't go with the three-cross spoke pattern. Instead I used an anti three-cross pattern, but even so the calculated flange width is wider than the Tni Evo hub's three-cross setup.
To match the red anodized hub, I also replaced the ENVE sticker — the customer had brought a similar colored one. Honestly, this sticker swap required more precision than the actual wheel build.
Rear wheel is built.
The original was built with a four-cross pattern, but the customer wanted to change to four-six while we were rebuilding, so that's what I did. The spokes are CX-RAY on both sides.
↑At first glance the flange width doesn't look that wide, but that's because the hub shell maintains its full diameter all the way out to the edge. The actual measured flange width is about 60mm, so the rear hub is quite the wide-flange. By comparison, Dura-Ace and Tni Evo are about 57mm, DT is about 53mm, Campagnolo Record is about 50mm, Gokiso is about 44mm, and my W-freehub is about 42mm. Flange width is an extremely critical factor—the loss of lateral stiffness from narrow flanges can't possibly be recovered with high-low flange tricks or left-right asymmetric builds (though I do my best to compensate). I've mentioned this repeatedly on the blog, but I'm planning to write a longer piece on narrow-flange lateral stiffness soon.
↑This Reynolds hub I built previously—also exceptionally wide at about 59mm. When choosing a rear hub, prioritize flange width first, then high-low flange characteristics, and you'll rarely go wrong.
Both wheels were originally built with DT 240S hubs, but
↑the customer wanted to swap to this hub.
It's clever how the bearings sit just barely outside the flange, but
I've never seen one this dramatically exposed before.
Front wheel is built.
It's a wide-flange hub, but I didn't go with the three-cross spoke pattern. Instead I used an anti three-cross pattern, but even so the calculated flange width is wider than the Tni Evo hub's three-cross setup.
To match the red anodized hub, I also replaced the ENVE sticker — the customer had brought a similar colored one. Honestly, this sticker swap required more precision than the actual wheel build.
Rear wheel is built.
The original was built with a four-cross pattern, but the customer wanted to change to four-six while we were rebuilding, so that's what I did. The spokes are CX-RAY on both sides.
↑At first glance the flange width doesn't look that wide, but that's because the hub shell maintains its full diameter all the way out to the edge. The actual measured flange width is about 60mm, so the rear hub is quite the wide-flange. By comparison, Dura-Ace and Tni Evo are about 57mm, DT is about 53mm, Campagnolo Record is about 50mm, Gokiso is about 44mm, and my W-freehub is about 42mm. Flange width is an extremely critical factor—the loss of lateral stiffness from narrow flanges can't possibly be recovered with high-low flange tricks or left-right asymmetric builds (though I do my best to compensate). I've mentioned this repeatedly on the blog, but I'm planning to write a longer piece on narrow-flange lateral stiffness soon.
↑This Reynolds hub I built previously—also exceptionally wide at about 59mm. When choosing a rear hub, prioritize flange width first, then high-low flange characteristics, and you'll rarely go wrong.