↓That's way too many!
I was writing an addendum to the previous post and it got too long,
so I made it a separate article.
Addendum: While it's true that many enthusiastic readers
clicked the button,
it's not just Wise Road—at chain shops in general
or in areas where there's only one or two pro shops per prefecture,
there are plenty of third-rate local independent shops that somehow
stay in business despite doing shoddy work.
I'm sure many people have experienced situations where
they got a "fixed" result that didn't actually work,
got ripped off, or like this Bora case,
had their wheel made worse than before they brought it in
（even if I wrote "only people with that experience, please click the button,"
I'd probably get similar results）.
I see wheels brought in or sent to me all the time
with stories like that attached to them.
This is my own personal rule
and I can't force it on other shops,
but my store works on a success-based fee system—if I can't fix it,
there's no charge for the "work done" or time spent.
But if you're an employee,
you probably can't make that decision on your own,
and there's a valid argument that labor time should generate a charge
regardless of the outcome.
However, when you permanently deform spokes by twisting them
or damage parts, and then return the wheel to the customer hoping they won't notice,
or return it in worse condition than when it arrived—that's inexcusable.
I really think it's wrong to charge labor time for work
that made things worse than the original state...
I've been hesitant to write this since it might get addressed quickly,
but complete bikes that arrive in boxes are called "70% assembled"
in the industry, and low-grade shops just take them out of the box,
tighten the stem bolts,
and sell them left as-is.
I recently figured out a simple way to spot this:
Shimano 12-speed components have three holes in the battery—two are used
for wired connections to the front and rear derailleurs.
The remaining one can be wired to the shifter on Dura-Ace and Ultegra,
and on 105 it's wireless only so only two battery holes are used,
but complete bikes often come configured for wireless connection
（semi-wireless setup）even on Dura-Ace and Ultegra.
If you flip back the lever bracket cover, you'll see
Dura-Ace and Ultegra have two connector ports
while 105 has one, but
on Dura-Ace and Ultegra, the lower port
doesn't have a dummy plug inserted in the factory state
（→here at the end of that article）.
Since it's included with the lever,
it should be in the small parts bag that comes with the complete bike.
So if you buy a complete bike at a shop with Dura-Ace or Ultegra
levers and flip back the bracket to find
no dummy plug in the lower port,
you can assume that shop is third-rate or worse.
If they'd done pre-sale maintenance properly, they'd normally notice.
Another common issue with electronic components:
when the shift adjustment is done correctly,
chain drop from the sprocket doesn't happen unless the hanger is bent
or you really mess with it, so I often see
the bolts that limit the range of motion
haven't been adjusted at all from factory state
（especially the low-end adjustment bolt）.
You should check these two things.
Addendum: I received a comment saying
"I've seen the guide seal with the front derailleur tooth distance printed on it
left attached."
I've seen that too.
Sometimes the part of the front derailleur below the cage
gets torn during shifting and an orange sticker
remains beside the cage.
Just like there's a trend of leaving the silver round sticker
on the bill of New Era baseball caps "unwrapped for style,"
there might be a subculture where leaving those on is considered cool.
I was writing an addendum to the previous post and it got too long,
so I made it a separate article.
Addendum: While it's true that many enthusiastic readers
clicked the button,
it's not just Wise Road—at chain shops in general
or in areas where there's only one or two pro shops per prefecture,
there are plenty of third-rate local independent shops that somehow
stay in business despite doing shoddy work.
I'm sure many people have experienced situations where
they got a "fixed" result that didn't actually work,
got ripped off, or like this Bora case,
had their wheel made worse than before they brought it in
（even if I wrote "only people with that experience, please click the button,"
I'd probably get similar results）.
I see wheels brought in or sent to me all the time
with stories like that attached to them.
This is my own personal rule
and I can't force it on other shops,
but my store works on a success-based fee system—if I can't fix it,
there's no charge for the "work done" or time spent.
But if you're an employee,
you probably can't make that decision on your own,
and there's a valid argument that labor time should generate a charge
regardless of the outcome.
However, when you permanently deform spokes by twisting them
or damage parts, and then return the wheel to the customer hoping they won't notice,
or return it in worse condition than when it arrived—that's inexcusable.
I really think it's wrong to charge labor time for work
that made things worse than the original state...
I've been hesitant to write this since it might get addressed quickly,
but complete bikes that arrive in boxes are called "70% assembled"
in the industry, and low-grade shops just take them out of the box,
tighten the stem bolts,
and sell them left as-is.
I recently figured out a simple way to spot this:
Shimano 12-speed components have three holes in the battery—two are used
for wired connections to the front and rear derailleurs.
The remaining one can be wired to the shifter on Dura-Ace and Ultegra,
and on 105 it's wireless only so only two battery holes are used,
but complete bikes often come configured for wireless connection
（semi-wireless setup）even on Dura-Ace and Ultegra.
If you flip back the lever bracket cover, you'll see
Dura-Ace and Ultegra have two connector ports
while 105 has one, but
on Dura-Ace and Ultegra, the lower port
doesn't have a dummy plug inserted in the factory state
（→here at the end of that article）.
Since it's included with the lever,
it should be in the small parts bag that comes with the complete bike.
So if you buy a complete bike at a shop with Dura-Ace or Ultegra
levers and flip back the bracket to find
no dummy plug in the lower port,
you can assume that shop is third-rate or worse.
If they'd done pre-sale maintenance properly, they'd normally notice.
Another common issue with electronic components:
when the shift adjustment is done correctly,
chain drop from the sprocket doesn't happen unless the hanger is bent
or you really mess with it, so I often see
the bolts that limit the range of motion
haven't been adjusted at all from factory state
（especially the low-end adjustment bolt）.
You should check these two things.
Addendum: I received a comment saying
"I've seen the guide seal with the front derailleur tooth distance printed on it
left attached."
I've seen that too.
Sometimes the part of the front derailleur below the cage
gets torn during shifting and an orange sticker
remains beside the cage.
Just like there's a trend of leaving the silver round sticker
on the bill of New Era baseball caps "unwrapped for style,"
there might be a subculture where leaving those on is considered cool.