Wheels again today (and so on).
Continuing from the other day.
I'm rebuilding the rear wheel for the Aeolos Pro 51.
The hub is a DT 350 with a different label—
instead of the newer single-pawl "Ratchet EXP" with the bamboo-shoot spring,
it's the older two-pawl "Ratchet" model.
The build is 24-spoke, all-black aero lites, 2-cross lacing on both sides.
Built.
Tni LW Super Hub 24-hole
Half-black CX Sprint, forced 2-cross lacing on both sides.
I'll do the lacing later.
On the non-drive side, I reused an aero lite
from the front wheel's old rotor mounting side (left side)—
I got the right length by trimming it slightly.
I didn't mention this when doing the front wheel,
but the black aluminum nipples
can be turned from the hex grip on the outer edge too—
same type as what's used on Rov wheels
so I reused those as well.
However, on the rear wheel there were three nipples with stripped marks on the inner edge from being over-tightened, so I swapped those out too.
Lucky that I happened to have them in stock.
The customer wanted to upgrade the rear hub to an LW Super—
I thought it was because DT's Shimano 11-speed freebody sprocket position
differs markedly from Shimano OEM,
and with 11-speed and 12-speed the derailleur adjustment gets really finicky,
so switching to a rear wheel with a non-DT hub changes the shift position.
But when I actually asked, the real reason was completely different.
I won't write about it here though.
↑This rim's serial number format typically has
"numbers sandwiched between QR codes with
the upper line starting with 21 and
the lower line starting with CD"—
it's an OEM production item from a certain manufacturer.
But seeing the upper line start with 20 instead of 21
is probably the first time for me.
This rim's "manufacturer" also sells
wheels under their own "brand,"
but those use the same serial number format.
I can't name the OEM source for political reasons,
but I've written about the OEM customer before (→here).
What's interesting about this rim is that
the outermost cosmetic carbon layer can be omitted
through their technology,
so they can achieve higher strength for the same weight compared to other manufacturers' rims.
And like ENVE, they can mold the spoke holes into the rim at the point of ejection from the mold
(rather than drilling them afterward)—
that's a characteristic of their manufacturing method.
The OEM source's own-brand rims have excellent
height-to-weight ratios—meaning they're light for their rim depth—
but the OEM customer's rims tend to be somewhat heavier.
For example, Rov's CLX 50 rim is
50mm deep and 435g,
but this rim is 51mm deep with nearly the same rim height,
yet it weighs more than the CLX 50 rim.
Though you do have to account for the fact that
the CLX 50's inner width is just under 21mm
whereas the Aeolos Pro is 23mm.
Also, this rim feels incredibly nice to tension.
That's something not just the OEM customer would know,
but even the OEM source—they only sell complete wheelsets,
not individual rims.
Only people who've actually broken down wheels
and rebuilt them would understand this.
What? You want me to tell you the exact weight?
No way I'm telling you that easily
↑man, this guy's got an attitude problem
Sorry for the wait! Please check out these images!
It's the front rim!
It's the rear rim!
↑Stop it already!
Continuing from the other day.
I'm rebuilding the rear wheel for the Aeolos Pro 51.
The hub is a DT 350 with a different label—
instead of the newer single-pawl "Ratchet EXP" with the bamboo-shoot spring,
it's the older two-pawl "Ratchet" model.
The build is 24-spoke, all-black aero lites, 2-cross lacing on both sides.
Built.
Tni LW Super Hub 24-hole
Half-black CX Sprint, forced 2-cross lacing on both sides.
I'll do the lacing later.
On the non-drive side, I reused an aero lite
from the front wheel's old rotor mounting side (left side)—
I got the right length by trimming it slightly.
I didn't mention this when doing the front wheel,
but the black aluminum nipples
can be turned from the hex grip on the outer edge too—
so I reused those as well.
However, on the rear wheel there were three nipples with stripped marks on the inner edge from being over-tightened, so I swapped those out too.
Lucky that I happened to have them in stock.
The customer wanted to upgrade the rear hub to an LW Super—
I thought it was because DT's Shimano 11-speed freebody sprocket position
differs markedly from Shimano OEM,
and with 11-speed and 12-speed the derailleur adjustment gets really finicky,
so switching to a rear wheel with a non-DT hub changes the shift position.
But when I actually asked, the real reason was completely different.
I won't write about it here though.
↑This rim's serial number format typically has
"numbers sandwiched between QR codes with
the upper line starting with 21 and
the lower line starting with CD"—
it's an OEM production item from a certain manufacturer.
But seeing the upper line start with 20 instead of 21
is probably the first time for me.
This rim's "manufacturer" also sells
wheels under their own "brand,"
but those use the same serial number format.
I can't name the OEM source for political reasons,
but I've written about the OEM customer before (→here).
What's interesting about this rim is that
the outermost cosmetic carbon layer can be omitted
through their technology,
so they can achieve higher strength for the same weight compared to other manufacturers' rims.
And like ENVE, they can mold the spoke holes into the rim at the point of ejection from the mold
(rather than drilling them afterward)—
that's a characteristic of their manufacturing method.
The OEM source's own-brand rims have excellent
height-to-weight ratios—meaning they're light for their rim depth—
but the OEM customer's rims tend to be somewhat heavier.
For example, Rov's CLX 50 rim is
50mm deep and 435g,
but this rim is 51mm deep with nearly the same rim height,
yet it weighs more than the CLX 50 rim.
Though you do have to account for the fact that
the CLX 50's inner width is just under 21mm
whereas the Aeolos Pro is 23mm.
Also, this rim feels incredibly nice to tension.
That's something not just the OEM customer would know,
but even the OEM source—they only sell complete wheelsets,
not individual rims.
Only people who've actually broken down wheels
and rebuilt them would understand this.
What? You want me to tell you the exact weight?
No way I'm telling you that easily
↑man, this guy's got an attitude problem
Sorry for the wait! Please check out these images!
It's the front rim!
It's the rear rim!
↑Stop it already!