A customer brought in a Cosmic Carbon UST tubeless model wheel for inspection.
They're requesting a full check-up.
I'll start with the front wheel, though they mentioned suspecting some center offset in the rear wheel.
The front wheel is a Mavic front hub with adjustable bearing play,
and it was overtightened.
Mavic bearings are extremely robust—
they can take rough treatment for quite a while without damage,
but if you keep running them with stiff bearing play, they deteriorate rapidly.
I adjusted it to just barely snug from the point where there's no play whatsoever.
It's fitted with tubeless tires,
and there's a Hutchinson logo, so they're not hiding the manufacturer.
Getting a bit off topic here,
this is my personal stationary trainer—an Eletto Volano (stationary bicycle trainer) model.
It's an early version since the belt area doesn't have a cover.
Current models come with one.
Before even the early version, the very first worldwide shipment had many instances of the load disk rubbing against the chassis, so it was recalled.
That said, most units were stopped before leaving the distributors,
so the Volano launch was delayed, and
hardly any made it into circulation.
The corrected version has a notch in the chassis to clear the load disk edge,
and my personal unit here is one of those corrected ones.
Anyway, this trainer's belt is made by Hutchinson.
That's really all I wanted to point out.
I removed the tire to use a proper center gauge,
and the sealant was doing its job properly.
↑This is how much liquid sealant remained.
If dried sealant stays caked on the tire bead or rim bead hook,
it can create gaps when you mount the tire next time,
so I cleaned it out quite thoroughly.
This actually took more time than the wheel inspection itself.
Almost no radial runout, but there was a slight center offset.
Fixed it.
↑I'm pretty thorough about removing this kind of buildup.
Installed fresh sealant too.
Left it overnight and there was zero air loss, so that's good.
This is just my observation, but...
there are marks in the brake zone from SwissStop Yellow King brake pads.
This is a different case—a non-UST Cosmic—
and it comes with dual-branded (Mavic/SwissStop) Yellow King brake pads.
Mavic's carbon rim suppliers have varied—
sometimes Corima, like in the image above,
or sometimes Enve (→here）(→here），
and I suspect this wheel is ENVE,
but Corima and ENVE rims don't play well with Yellow King pads at all,
so it's safer to switch to the less aggressive Black Prince pads instead.
The same goes for Easton wheels.
The Cosmic Carbon Ultimate in the image above was mine,
and the brake zone started to show signs of becoming rough,
so I switched it to Black Prince pads.
When the brake zone turns yellow,
braking becomes strong only at the phase where the yellow on the rim meets the Yellow King pad,
which causes the rim to heat up excessively.
Now for the rear wheel.
Unlike the front, the rear hub uses the newer Instant Drive mechanism,
which is basically a direct-engagement hub with no adjustment needed.
They mentioned the wheel had hit rim, so I looked carefully,
but there was nothing unusual.
They also felt the spoke tension was a bit loose,
but the freewheel side is about three steps before hitting the limit—
it's not particularly loose.
Radial runout was nearly nonexistent—it was built really well—
but
there was center offset.
Fixed it.
This used up nearly all the tightening range on the freewheel side,
bringing the freewheel side tension to just one step before the limit,
so at this point there's not much more I can do besides minor true adjustments down the road.
They're requesting a full check-up.
I'll start with the front wheel, though they mentioned suspecting some center offset in the rear wheel.
The front wheel is a Mavic front hub with adjustable bearing play,
and it was overtightened.
Mavic bearings are extremely robust—
they can take rough treatment for quite a while without damage,
but if you keep running them with stiff bearing play, they deteriorate rapidly.
I adjusted it to just barely snug from the point where there's no play whatsoever.
It's fitted with tubeless tires,
and there's a Hutchinson logo, so they're not hiding the manufacturer.
Getting a bit off topic here,
this is my personal stationary trainer—an Eletto Volano (stationary bicycle trainer) model.
It's an early version since the belt area doesn't have a cover.
Current models come with one.
Before even the early version, the very first worldwide shipment had many instances of the load disk rubbing against the chassis, so it was recalled.
That said, most units were stopped before leaving the distributors,
so the Volano launch was delayed, and
hardly any made it into circulation.
The corrected version has a notch in the chassis to clear the load disk edge,
and my personal unit here is one of those corrected ones.
Anyway, this trainer's belt is made by Hutchinson.
That's really all I wanted to point out.
I removed the tire to use a proper center gauge,
and the sealant was doing its job properly.
↑This is how much liquid sealant remained.
If dried sealant stays caked on the tire bead or rim bead hook,
it can create gaps when you mount the tire next time,
so I cleaned it out quite thoroughly.
This actually took more time than the wheel inspection itself.
Almost no radial runout, but there was a slight center offset.
Fixed it.
↑I'm pretty thorough about removing this kind of buildup.
Installed fresh sealant too.
Left it overnight and there was zero air loss, so that's good.
This is just my observation, but...
there are marks in the brake zone from SwissStop Yellow King brake pads.
This is a different case—a non-UST Cosmic—
and it comes with dual-branded (Mavic/SwissStop) Yellow King brake pads.
Mavic's carbon rim suppliers have varied—
sometimes Corima, like in the image above,
or sometimes Enve (→here）(→here），
and I suspect this wheel is ENVE,
but Corima and ENVE rims don't play well with Yellow King pads at all,
so it's safer to switch to the less aggressive Black Prince pads instead.
The same goes for Easton wheels.
The Cosmic Carbon Ultimate in the image above was mine,
and the brake zone started to show signs of becoming rough,
so I switched it to Black Prince pads.
When the brake zone turns yellow,
braking becomes strong only at the phase where the yellow on the rim meets the Yellow King pad,
which causes the rim to heat up excessively.
Now for the rear wheel.
Unlike the front, the rear hub uses the newer Instant Drive mechanism,
which is basically a direct-engagement hub with no adjustment needed.
They mentioned the wheel had hit rim, so I looked carefully,
but there was nothing unusual.
They also felt the spoke tension was a bit loose,
but the freewheel side is about three steps before hitting the limit—
it's not particularly loose.
Radial runout was nearly nonexistent—it was built really well—
but
there was center offset.
Fixed it.
This used up nearly all the tightening range on the freewheel side,
bringing the freewheel side tension to just one step before the limit,
so at this point there's not much more I can do besides minor true adjustments down the road.