Rebuilt Rooval SLX24 Wheels

Another day with wheels (and so on).
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A customer left me a Rooval SLX24 wheel to work on.
This is totally beside the point, but it's probably rare to see the manufacturer name and model name text oriented in opposite directions on a single label.

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It's a Rooval-branded wheel, but spec-wise it's just a standard, budget-grade wheel built from generic materials—the kind that comes stock on complete bikes.

In the sense of being a mass-market product without the manufacturer or brand's signature design features, it's similar to stuff like Fulcrum Racing 5 LG (which doesn't use 2:1 lacing) or Mavic Aksium (which doesn't use Isopulse lacing).

Rooval was once a French wheel brand that existed, but nowadays it's a zombiebrand owned in name only by Specialized. I know the Japanese distributor uses the spelling "Rovale," but since it was originally called Rooval before that, I stick with calling it Rooval. For details on the original Rooval, see (→here).

Anyway, according to the customer, this wheel feels like it's sapping the power. So I decided to rebuild it using my method.

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While feeling around the side of the rim, I noticed something: the brake zone has a thick, protruding machined finish, but the spot in the image above is thicker than other areas, and

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on the opposite side at the same phase, it's basically flush with the rest.

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↑Exaggerating it in a drawing, it looks something like this. The rim width doesn't actually change by phase, so there's no problem with building the wheel.

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The original front wheel was: 20H hub, all-black, Campagnolo, reversed nipples, radial lacing, with black brass nipples. The tension was fairly decent.

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Built.

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Same hub as before—20H, black CX-RAY, reversed nipples, radial lacing, with black aluminum nipples. I built it to be crisper than before, though the weight reduction from the lighter spokes and nipples might be the bigger factor here.

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The rim weight—I thought it'd be around 500g, but it was actually light for a rim used on a stock wheel.

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The original rear wheel was: 24H hub, all-black, Campagnolo, 4/0 lacing (all Campagnolo spokes), with black brass nipples. If I were doing half-Campagnolo 4/6 lacing, I'd swap to aluminum nipples and disassemble it, but reuse the freewheel-side spokes. However, based on the customer's weight and preferences, I decided to go with 14-gauge plain spokes instead.

Yesterday's Crisking wheel used 14-gauge plain spokes (2.0mm), and this wheel's original spokes are 2.0-1.8-2.0mm butted, but this rear wheel is much crisper. It's not that it's more tensioned—yesterday's wheel was just built incredibly soft.

For a rear wheel built with a non-offset rim and equal-diameter flanges on the hub, using anti-freewheel-side radial lacing, the anti-freewheel side seemed unusually tight, so I suspected the rim might be shifted left. I checked and

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that was indeed the case, but the offset wasn't quite as dramatic as the anti-freewheel side being cranked super-tight while centered. The reason the anti-freewheel side felt less flexible was simply that the freewheel side was well-tensioned.

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Built.

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Same hub as before—24H, black, half-Campagnolo 4/6 lacing with cross-lacing, and black aluminum nipples. Built it quite tight. Hehehehe.

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