Campagnolo 11S Sprocket Spacer Specification Changes

Regarding the spacers for Campagnolo 11S sprockets,
there are two types: the 2.2mm thick circular spacer "2-CS-612" and
the 2.3mm thick pentagonal spacer "2-CS-712".
Well, there were (past tense).
The "2-" at the beginning of the part number indicates a sales unit of 2 pieces per set,
but in recent spare parts,
this numbering has been omitted from the part numbers,
mixing with older parts.
For example, the part number for CULT One hub parts is "4-HB-HY024,"
meaning 4 pieces, hub, Hyperion 024,
but for the CULT One with a smaller-diameter front hub,
it becomes "HB-BO024."
This means hub, Bora 024,
it's called Bora because it first appeared as Bora Ultra,
but even without the "4-" prefix, the sales unit is still 4 pieces.

Getting back to spacers, "CS" stands for cassette sprocket.
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This is the 2.2mm circular spacer, the 2-CS-612.
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↑This kind of thing
Both this and the 2-CS-712 sometimes get all fuzzy and crack.
Since I've had examples in my own bikes, I keep them as a spare part in stock,
but recently when I ordered the 2-CS-612,
it had been discontinued and a replacement "CS-022" was sent instead.
This comes in a 6-piece set as the sales unit, but since it's a recent part,
it doesn't have the "6-CS-022" designation.

About this spacer getting fuzzy and cracking,
when I asked a Japanese distributor who's the most knowledgeable about Campagnolo,
they said they weren't aware of it as a particularly frequent issue.
Yet I've seen it happen fairly regularly, including in my own bikes,
and they claim not to know about it.
I suggested giving it a catchy name like "new shaft explosion"
and exposing it here, but they asked me not to.
Regardless of the name, I'm exposing it anyway.
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This is something I got from a customer for article material.

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↑It doesn't suddenly become like this,
but this kind of damage does happen.
Circumferential cracks that splinter slightly
are quite common to see.
As long as the lockring on the sprocket is tight,
pieces won't fall out.
You usually notice it when replacing the sprocket.

Possible causes include the theory that the lockring is over-tightened or
that it's been damaged by chain oil,
but since I know this tends to happen,
I don't over-tighten the lockring.
Since it's plastic to begin with, hydrolysis over time is probably
unavoidable anyway,
but since I've never seen the equivalent spacer on budget Shimano sprockets
do this, it's fair to say this is a Campagnolo-specific phenomenon.

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↑Initially it develops splintering like this.

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Now, regarding the replacement CS-022,

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it has been changed to aluminum, like the old 9S sprockets.
This specification change came after
the switch to 12S components.
In other words, Campagnolo changed the specification of spare parts
for a component that isn't even their current product,
which is quite extraordinary.
Either they felt quite guilty about it, or
the home office received many reports of breakage.
Oddly enough, these 4 boxes of CS-022
weren't special ordered from headquarters
but were already stocked by the Japanese distributor and shipped immediately.
So much for not being aware of the issue—
they had plenty of inventory on hand.
I won't pursue this any further.

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I also keep the 2-CS-712 in stock.

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↑This one
This one tends to break more in a way that looks like it's been cut in one spot with pliers,
rather than splintering.
When two or more spots are cracked, it often
falls right out when replacing the sprocket.
Speaking of timely matters, one sold today.
This spacer is machined, which must be labor-intensive,
so it hasn't (so far) been changed to aluminum.

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One customer's wheel spacer wasn't completely shattered,
but had started to split fuzzy,
so from a Bora rear wheel sprocket we have in our shop
belonging to the same customer, I extracted a spacer as a salvage part—
that's the image above.

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For Campagnolo 11S sprockets,
excluding the cheapest grade-outside models,
on the Super Record, Record, and Chorus grades,
you first thread three low-gear cogs as a unit onto the freebody.
Next you thread the 2.2mm thick circular spacer CS-612,
then thread another 3-cog unit.
That's what the image above shows.

DSC06986amx14.jpg
Next you thread the 2.3mm thick
pentagonal spacer CS-712,
and from here on you alternate between single-tooth cogs and CS-612.


When discarding worn 11S sprockets,
if they're not cracked, you should save the spacers—
they can come in handy.
In fact, used spacers I'd stockpiled
have all been loaned out to acquaintances whose broke,
and I don't have a single one left now.

Regarding the CS-022 replacement for the CS-612,
I don't think it will ever break,
so for anyone who's had trouble with cracked examples,
I recommend securing the quantity you need.
Regardless of the number of low-gear teeth,
if the configuration is 11T top, it includes 3 pieces,
if 12T top, it includes 4 pieces.
The manufacturer sells them in 6-piece sets,
but our shop sells them as individual pieces.

Oh, by the way, how about calling this issue
the fuzzy spacer guy?

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