Another wheel day (and so on).
A customer left me a Roval C38 wheel.
I'd promised to rebuild it once the CX Sprint spokes arrived.
Today I'm doing the front wheel.
It's not like it matters since I'm taking it apart anyway, but it was perfectly centered. Pretty impressive work.
DT350 hub, 24 holes, black Campagnolo Record, 4:4 lacing.
Radial lacing on the non-rotor side of disc front wheels—that's a pattern that goes back to the early days of MTB disc brakes—but you shouldn't do it unless you've got around 32 holes.
Maybe because it's a mass-market price-point wheel, Roval's philosophy of 2:1 lacing isn't built in, but that actually works out better for us.
You can build a superior wheel with equal-sided lacing than with Roval's silly 2:1 lacing.
As far as rim height-to-weight ratio goes, the CLX and CL rims are pretty good, and the Alpinist rim boasts exceptional lightness for a mass-produced wheel from a major brand, but those are 2:1 laced rims with offset spoke holes, and the front rim is 21 holes, so you can't even do equal-sided lacing while ignoring the spoke holes.
Just in terms of the structure between hub and rim after rebuilding, the C38 becomes a better wheel than the CLX.
But as far as off-the-shelf condition goes, I think the CLX is slightly superior.
Inside the rim was a piece of tubeless tape that had been cut with a knife at the valve hole.
The part—like the lid you'd get if you didn't make the final cut with a can opener—gets folded inward and eventually breaks off when it contacts the valve, falling into the rim.
Depending on the rim and rim tape, it can sound like a small pebble is inside when you shake it—a hard, distinct sound.
Given the size and weight, it won't naturally fall out just from shaking the rim.
You have to guide it toward the valve hole and either push it out with a thin rod or extract it with tweezers.
Here's tape peeled from the same rim, but since it's double-layered around the valve hole, there's still a part of the valve hole that hasn't torn yet.
This fluttery state like a booger at the edge of a nostril—I think it's better to just cut it clean, but...
Anyway, I rebuilt it.
24 holes, semi-black CX Sprint, 4:4 reverse Italian lacing.
I'll do the tying later.
The ROVAL logo on the hub shell and the DT Swiss 350 text on the opposite side are stickers wrapped around the hub.
A customer left me a Roval C38 wheel.
I'd promised to rebuild it once the CX Sprint spokes arrived.
Today I'm doing the front wheel.
It's not like it matters since I'm taking it apart anyway, but it was perfectly centered. Pretty impressive work.
DT350 hub, 24 holes, black Campagnolo Record, 4:4 lacing.
Radial lacing on the non-rotor side of disc front wheels—that's a pattern that goes back to the early days of MTB disc brakes—but you shouldn't do it unless you've got around 32 holes.
Maybe because it's a mass-market price-point wheel, Roval's philosophy of 2:1 lacing isn't built in, but that actually works out better for us.
You can build a superior wheel with equal-sided lacing than with Roval's silly 2:1 lacing.
As far as rim height-to-weight ratio goes, the CLX and CL rims are pretty good, and the Alpinist rim boasts exceptional lightness for a mass-produced wheel from a major brand, but those are 2:1 laced rims with offset spoke holes, and the front rim is 21 holes, so you can't even do equal-sided lacing while ignoring the spoke holes.
Just in terms of the structure between hub and rim after rebuilding, the C38 becomes a better wheel than the CLX.
But as far as off-the-shelf condition goes, I think the CLX is slightly superior.
Inside the rim was a piece of tubeless tape that had been cut with a knife at the valve hole.
The part—like the lid you'd get if you didn't make the final cut with a can opener—gets folded inward and eventually breaks off when it contacts the valve, falling into the rim.
Depending on the rim and rim tape, it can sound like a small pebble is inside when you shake it—a hard, distinct sound.
Given the size and weight, it won't naturally fall out just from shaking the rim.
You have to guide it toward the valve hole and either push it out with a thin rod or extract it with tweezers.
Here's tape peeled from the same rim, but since it's double-layered around the valve hole, there's still a part of the valve hole that hasn't torn yet.
This fluttery state like a booger at the edge of a nostril—I think it's better to just cut it clean, but...
Anyway, I rebuilt it.
24 holes, semi-black CX Sprint, 4:4 reverse Italian lacing.
I'll do the tying later.
The ROVAL logo on the hub shell and the DT Swiss 350 text on the opposite side are stickers wrapped around the hub.