I received a complete WH-R9270 50mm high tubeless rim wheel set from a customer for inspection.
It's been used a bit, and they wanted an inspection.
Both front and rear wheels had almost no runout,
but the front wheel had significant hub centering issues,
so I asked if there was any spoke truing history,
and they said there wasn't any, so it seems to be from the factory.
Also, there was play in the rear hub, so they wanted me to fix it.
I adjusted the cone bearing adjustment, but
both hub nuts showed signs of tool marks,
so I asked if anyone had touched them before, and they said no,
so these marks might have been made during initial assembly at the factory.
...That's what I told the customer at the time, but
with Shimano hubs and component parts like pedals that you grip with a wrench,
it's generally the case that there are absolutely no tool marks,
so I actually think it's quite likely that someone other than the customer touched these after shipment.
Also, because of the centerlock rotor mount dimensions,
instead of the digital ratchet-type bearing adjustment mechanism with the same structure as a wheel bag headset,
it uses a simple double-nut design.
The current XTRA doesn't have complete wheels, but
the rear wheel of the M9000 series from the 11-speed era
(first appeared in 2015) also uses a simple double-nut design,
so it seems difficult to fit the digital ratchet type into a centerlock seat.
That digital ratchet design, while not infinitely adjustable,
has the advantage that if you set it to loosen even one notch from the most tightened position of the notches,
the hub will have play, so
"if you understand the method, anyone adjusting it gets the same result,
and you can achieve that very quickly."
But even self-proclaimed pro shops don't understand the method
and actually exist that break the cap notch or hub shaft end
(→here)（→here）,
so it's a tough call whether it's the fault of shops with low intelligence before being technical,
or Shimano's fault for having expectations of those guys' intelligence.
Also, why do they constantly get the freewheel body dust seal orientation wrong?
These people are now (if they haven't gone out of business) servicing hydraulic disc brakes,
and I've been a bit nervous for a while wondering if indirect casualties will appear.
The rear wheel is built in a 2:1 lacing pattern with evenly-spaced holes.
I think the best approach for a R9270 or R8170 complete wheel
is to buy two front wheels and rebuild one as the rear wheel.
At that time, if it's a tubular rim version,
it only exists in Dura-Ace grade,
so you need to buy the R9270,
but in the case of tubeless rims, aside from cosmetics, the same rim exists
on the R8170, so buying two Ultegra-grade front wheels
is cheaper and better.
Even the total price of a front wheel set is much less than
a carbon rim alone from top brands, and it's also excellent in the height/weight ratio.
Shimano's R9270/R8170 series wheels have
24-spoke front wheels with equal left-right lacing
and 24-spoke rear wheels with 2:1 lacing,
but if you already bought both front and rear wheels
and wanted the rear wheel to be equal left-right lacing instead, is that possible?
The hole positions on the rim itself don't appear to have any eccentricity,
so it's possible.
Unlike the Bora WTO DB rim, even though the hole count is the same,
the spare part rim part numbers are different,
so they do seem to be making different versions.
Even if the rim hole positions have no eccentricity,
there's a possibility that the holes themselves have directional orientation,
but in the past, when I actually rebuilt
a R8170-C36-TL rear wheel (→here),
I didn't get the sensation that I was forcibly breaking something like that.
Measured weight of the front wheel.
In the past, I calculated the weight of the "hub assembly" part of the wheel
(everything except the rim) for the R9270 hub with C36 and C50
(C60-HR-TL is impossible because spoke specific gravity differs)
assuming a spoke specific gravity of exactly 62%
(→here),
and by that calculation, the front wheel of the WH-R9270-C50-TL
has a hub assembly of approximately 228.78g.
The weight of spokes and nipples has almost no variation,
and the hub also varies less than the rim, so this is quite accurate.
So the rim's estimated weight is 460.22g, which is the measured wheel weight minus the hub assembly weight, but
note that this includes the rim tape weight.
So, it's probably around 450g.
The front wheel's rated weight is 674g, but
it's unclear whether this includes rim tape.
In the manufacturer's photos, a tubeless valve is attached to the rim, but
this wheel came in with the tire removed
and there were absolutely no traces of sealant,
so it seems the customer was using it with an inner tube.
Sorry for the wait! Here's the image... Wait, what?
↑Too late, Yuranosuke
It's been used a bit, and they wanted an inspection.
Both front and rear wheels had almost no runout,
but the front wheel had significant hub centering issues,
so I asked if there was any spoke truing history,
and they said there wasn't any, so it seems to be from the factory.
Also, there was play in the rear hub, so they wanted me to fix it.
I adjusted the cone bearing adjustment, but
both hub nuts showed signs of tool marks,
so I asked if anyone had touched them before, and they said no,
so these marks might have been made during initial assembly at the factory.
...That's what I told the customer at the time, but
with Shimano hubs and component parts like pedals that you grip with a wrench,
it's generally the case that there are absolutely no tool marks,
so I actually think it's quite likely that someone other than the customer touched these after shipment.
Also, because of the centerlock rotor mount dimensions,
instead of the digital ratchet-type bearing adjustment mechanism with the same structure as a wheel bag headset,
it uses a simple double-nut design.
The current XTRA doesn't have complete wheels, but
the rear wheel of the M9000 series from the 11-speed era
(first appeared in 2015) also uses a simple double-nut design,
so it seems difficult to fit the digital ratchet type into a centerlock seat.
That digital ratchet design, while not infinitely adjustable,
has the advantage that if you set it to loosen even one notch from the most tightened position of the notches,
the hub will have play, so
"if you understand the method, anyone adjusting it gets the same result,
and you can achieve that very quickly."
But even self-proclaimed pro shops don't understand the method
and actually exist that break the cap notch or hub shaft end
(→here)（→here）,
so it's a tough call whether it's the fault of shops with low intelligence before being technical,
or Shimano's fault for having expectations of those guys' intelligence.
Also, why do they constantly get the freewheel body dust seal orientation wrong?
These people are now (if they haven't gone out of business) servicing hydraulic disc brakes,
and I've been a bit nervous for a while wondering if indirect casualties will appear.
The rear wheel is built in a 2:1 lacing pattern with evenly-spaced holes.
I think the best approach for a R9270 or R8170 complete wheel
is to buy two front wheels and rebuild one as the rear wheel.
At that time, if it's a tubular rim version,
it only exists in Dura-Ace grade,
so you need to buy the R9270,
but in the case of tubeless rims, aside from cosmetics, the same rim exists
on the R8170, so buying two Ultegra-grade front wheels
is cheaper and better.
Even the total price of a front wheel set is much less than
a carbon rim alone from top brands, and it's also excellent in the height/weight ratio.
Shimano's R9270/R8170 series wheels have
24-spoke front wheels with equal left-right lacing
and 24-spoke rear wheels with 2:1 lacing,
but if you already bought both front and rear wheels
and wanted the rear wheel to be equal left-right lacing instead, is that possible?
The hole positions on the rim itself don't appear to have any eccentricity,
so it's possible.
Unlike the Bora WTO DB rim, even though the hole count is the same,
the spare part rim part numbers are different,
so they do seem to be making different versions.
Even if the rim hole positions have no eccentricity,
there's a possibility that the holes themselves have directional orientation,
but in the past, when I actually rebuilt
a R8170-C36-TL rear wheel (→here),
I didn't get the sensation that I was forcibly breaking something like that.
Measured weight of the front wheel.
In the past, I calculated the weight of the "hub assembly" part of the wheel
(everything except the rim) for the R9270 hub with C36 and C50
(C60-HR-TL is impossible because spoke specific gravity differs)
assuming a spoke specific gravity of exactly 62%
(→here),
and by that calculation, the front wheel of the WH-R9270-C50-TL
has a hub assembly of approximately 228.78g.
The weight of spokes and nipples has almost no variation,
and the hub also varies less than the rim, so this is quite accurate.
So the rim's estimated weight is 460.22g, which is the measured wheel weight minus the hub assembly weight, but
note that this includes the rim tape weight.
So, it's probably around 450g.
The front wheel's rated weight is 674g, but
it's unclear whether this includes rim tape.
In the manufacturer's photos, a tubeless valve is attached to the rim, but
this wheel came in with the tire removed
and there were absolutely no traces of sealant,
so it seems the customer was using it with an inner tube.
Sorry for the wait! Here's the image... Wait, what?
↑Too late, Yuranosuke