A customer brought in a
wheel that came with a BMC complete bike.
Both front and rear wheels have equal-count tangent spoking on both sides,
with the front wheel at 24H and rear wheel at 28H—disc brake-compatible
carbon rim wheels.
The customer also has
a Nomunlab wheel No. 5 (rim brake version) and
an ENVE rim wheel that we built here,
and compared to those, this one feels loose, so they want an inspection,
but separately they're also asking if we can tension it up if possible.
This is unrelated to the current job, but
customers who ask us to rebuild Roval wheels
often already own wheels we've built or rebuilt,
and since Nomunlab has a service history with them,
it's probably easier to ask, but
it also seems that since wheels we've built become the standard for ride feel,
they inevitably find Roval wheels feeling loose.
When I mentioned this to today's customer,
they said they lent their ENVE to an acquaintance,
and that person hasn't used their Roval since then, so
I said, "Well, that's not good of us" (deadpan), and
apparently that acquaintance brought their Roval in here a few days later.
I don't remember who it was, but good for them! (deadpan)
It was already offset to the left (rotor bracket side) by about two sheets of paper,
and from there I tensioned just the left side by about half a turn.
On this wheel, both front and rear have
the high-tension side pulled up quite tight,
so I can't tension much more.
The centering offset in the image above is the sum of the original offset plus
the additional offset from the half-turn tension,
but when I tensioned the right side by half a turn,
the rim shifted right past center.
The left side is already at its limit for future truing adjustments,
so I loosened the right side I'd just tensioned by a bit
and got it centered.
There's not a single untensioned nipple,
but about half a turn on the high-tension side and roughly a third turn on the low-tension side.
So it hasn't changed enough to feel the difference by hand.
I didn't take photos of the rear wheel,
but like the front, it was slightly offset toward the freewheel side (high-tension side)
and the tension was also on the tight side, so I didn't do any major tensioning.
By the way, this wheel is made by XERO (Zero).
↑The logo looks like this
They used to make a lot of paired-spoke complete wheels.
XERO is a pretty large manufacturer that also does OEM work,
and while their hubs and rims are one thing, their spokes and bearings aren't completely proprietary,
but they do have a tendency to invest serious money to put their own logo on components.
It's built with aero spokes in a spoke count ratio not found in generic parts, with high flattening ratio,
and the spoke heads have
the XERO logo stamped on them.
When you remove the hub's quick-release ends and look at the bearing seals,
you'll find the XERO logo there too,
and they've even added some nice messaging like
"Perfect Your Ride."
Currently, the most famous XERO OEM client is probably
Cannondale's Hologram wheels (→here）（→here）.
wheel that came with a BMC complete bike.
Both front and rear wheels have equal-count tangent spoking on both sides,
with the front wheel at 24H and rear wheel at 28H—disc brake-compatible
carbon rim wheels.
The customer also has
a Nomunlab wheel No. 5 (rim brake version) and
an ENVE rim wheel that we built here,
and compared to those, this one feels loose, so they want an inspection,
but separately they're also asking if we can tension it up if possible.
This is unrelated to the current job, but
customers who ask us to rebuild Roval wheels
often already own wheels we've built or rebuilt,
and since Nomunlab has a service history with them,
it's probably easier to ask, but
it also seems that since wheels we've built become the standard for ride feel,
they inevitably find Roval wheels feeling loose.
When I mentioned this to today's customer,
they said they lent their ENVE to an acquaintance,
and that person hasn't used their Roval since then, so
I said, "Well, that's not good of us" (deadpan), and
apparently that acquaintance brought their Roval in here a few days later.
I don't remember who it was, but good for them! (deadpan)
It was already offset to the left (rotor bracket side) by about two sheets of paper,
and from there I tensioned just the left side by about half a turn.
On this wheel, both front and rear have
the high-tension side pulled up quite tight,
so I can't tension much more.
The centering offset in the image above is the sum of the original offset plus
the additional offset from the half-turn tension,
but when I tensioned the right side by half a turn,
the rim shifted right past center.
The left side is already at its limit for future truing adjustments,
so I loosened the right side I'd just tensioned by a bit
and got it centered.
There's not a single untensioned nipple,
but about half a turn on the high-tension side and roughly a third turn on the low-tension side.
So it hasn't changed enough to feel the difference by hand.
I didn't take photos of the rear wheel,
but like the front, it was slightly offset toward the freewheel side (high-tension side)
and the tension was also on the tight side, so I didn't do any major tensioning.
By the way, this wheel is made by XERO (Zero).
↑The logo looks like this
They used to make a lot of paired-spoke complete wheels.
XERO is a pretty large manufacturer that also does OEM work,
and while their hubs and rims are one thing, their spokes and bearings aren't completely proprietary,
but they do have a tendency to invest serious money to put their own logo on components.
It's built with aero spokes in a spoke count ratio not found in generic parts, with high flattening ratio,
and the spoke heads have
the XERO logo stamped on them.
When you remove the hub's quick-release ends and look at the bearing seals,
you'll find the XERO logo there too,
and they've even added some nice messaging like
"Perfect Your Ride."
Currently, the most famous XERO OEM client is probably
Cannondale's Hologram wheels (→here）（→here）.